Here is a crapy video that would show most of what someone would want to know but i don't think it's very useful since it looks like Torque does not update fast enough.
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My 454 Rebuild
- Thread starter Spareparts
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Got the injector harness changed this afternoon. I mast have had the upper intake off to much as from start to finish the job only took 1-1/2 hour.
I jumped the relay so the fuel pump run continually for about 5 minutes and none of the injectors showed any sign of leaking.
Good news! The new harness changed nothing at all as expected so now i know the problem is not that.
Was out for a little over 100 mile drive friday and at a pretty steady 70mph and averaged almost 12mpg. Not to bad i think and i know at 60mph it averages almost 14 MPG.
I was also watching the fuel trims today and at highway speeds the LTFT was -9% or a little less.
I jumped the relay so the fuel pump run continually for about 5 minutes and none of the injectors showed any sign of leaking.
Good news! The new harness changed nothing at all as expected so now i know the problem is not that.
Was out for a little over 100 mile drive friday and at a pretty steady 70mph and averaged almost 12mpg. Not to bad i think and i know at 60mph it averages almost 14 MPG.
I was also watching the fuel trims today and at highway speeds the LTFT was -9% or a little less.
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I am beginning to believe more and more the machine shop that rebuilt the short block and freshened up the heads did something wrong and the only way im gonna get this fixed is to pull the heads and see what the heck is going on.
Looking back i posted pics of 6 valve springs that were installed upside down by the machine shop.
I reinstalled them properly but i neglected to check how well they were sealing but passing a leak down check all cylinders pass at 100psi.
Also, Over the last 2ish months the engine started making a noise that is piston speed when cold. It was real light and faint and slowly getting worse.
It is not a rod knock or main bearing knock. I do not believe it is a wrist pin either. Oil pressure is the same as when it was first installed.
The head gaskets were gm performance with a .022 compressed thickness whereas stock is .044 i think. Wonder is that could somehow be a problem.
I'm just tired of messing with it.
Might sell it now still running or wait till it fully breaks and be done with it. Really frustrating and bummed over this with what should have been a fresh reman engine installed that should have gone about forever.
Looking back i posted pics of 6 valve springs that were installed upside down by the machine shop.
I reinstalled them properly but i neglected to check how well they were sealing but passing a leak down check all cylinders pass at 100psi.
Also, Over the last 2ish months the engine started making a noise that is piston speed when cold. It was real light and faint and slowly getting worse.
It is not a rod knock or main bearing knock. I do not believe it is a wrist pin either. Oil pressure is the same as when it was first installed.
The head gaskets were gm performance with a .022 compressed thickness whereas stock is .044 i think. Wonder is that could somehow be a problem.
I'm just tired of messing with it.
Might sell it now still running or wait till it fully breaks and be done with it. Really frustrating and bummed over this with what should have been a fresh reman engine installed that should have gone about forever.
Depending on what's wrong--if anything--you might be pulling the pan, too.
Yeah, that doesn't sound good for the machine shop.
OTOH, it's fairly common for the guy who knows what he's doing, to do the actual machining. Then the hired-hand/trainee/gopher does the assembly. I've caught problems from my favorite machine shop, that traced back to the "Part-Time Guy"; and they generally involved failure to properly clean.
Huh???
What is the percentage of leakage?
Piston slap is common as dirt on various GM engines, although the SBC/BBC aren't terribly affected provided the piston-to-wall clearance is correct.
The thinner head gasket is likely a benefit not a problem--depending on how the block decks were machined, and the compression height of the piston.
This engine is running on a 0411 computer? What vehicle did the computer come from?
Depending on what's wrong--if anything--you might be pulling the pan, too.
If the pan has to come off the engine needs to come out. I don't know if i have that in me anymore.
OTOH, it's fairly common for the guy who knows what he's doing, to do the actual machining. Then the hired-hand/trainee/gopher does the assembly. I've caught problems from my favorite machine shop, that traced back to the "Part-Time Guy"; and they generally involved failure to properly clean.
I believe that is what happened. I did call them, Sent pictures. They are aware.
What is the percentage of leakage?
I can't remember off the top of my head for sure but i remember 4psi & 5psi, i think
Piston slap is common as dirt on various GM engines, although the SBC/BBC aren't terribly affected provided the piston-to-wall clearance is correct.
Could be piston slap. Never herd it on SBC/BBC but have herd it on 5.3's and old Volvo's
The thinner head gasket is likely a benefit not a problem--depending on how the block decks were machined, and the compression height of the piston.
I would sure think a thinner head gasket is better in this application. Pistons are flat top stock with 4 small valve reliefs.
This engine is running on a 0411 computer? What vehicle did the computer come from?
No it is running the stock black box. Been running that for a while now. I figured it was better to be stock to help trouble shoot.
If the pan has to come off the engine needs to come out. I don't know if i have that in me anymore.
OTOH, it's fairly common for the guy who knows what he's doing, to do the actual machining. Then the hired-hand/trainee/gopher does the assembly. I've caught problems from my favorite machine shop, that traced back to the "Part-Time Guy"; and they generally involved failure to properly clean.
I believe that is what happened. I did call them, Sent pictures. They are aware.
What is the percentage of leakage?
I can't remember off the top of my head for sure but i remember 4psi & 5psi, i think
Piston slap is common as dirt on various GM engines, although the SBC/BBC aren't terribly affected provided the piston-to-wall clearance is correct.
Could be piston slap. Never herd it on SBC/BBC but have herd it on 5.3's and old Volvo's
The thinner head gasket is likely a benefit not a problem--depending on how the block decks were machined, and the compression height of the piston.
I would sure think a thinner head gasket is better in this application. Pistons are flat top stock with 4 small valve reliefs.
This engine is running on a 0411 computer? What vehicle did the computer come from?
No it is running the stock black box. Been running that for a while now. I figured it was better to be stock to help trouble shoot.
Here is a pic of the #7 plug. How's it looking?
Sorry they are not clearer and the lint is from a rag i had it sitting on.
Sorry they are not clearer and the lint is from a rag i had it sitting on.
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Got all my windows tinted the other day. Reason for driving 100 miles Friday.
I love it and looks way better then the silver stuff i had in it.
Went with limo black on the passenger doors/back glass and 30% on the front doors. Not Idaho legal but guess im gonna find out if it's a big deal or not.
Reason i wanted the back so dark is when camping we sleep in the back.
Before and after shots.
I love it and looks way better then the silver stuff i had in it.
Went with limo black on the passenger doors/back glass and 30% on the front doors. Not Idaho legal but guess im gonna find out if it's a big deal or not.
Reason i wanted the back so dark is when camping we sleep in the back.
Before and after shots.
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Looks really good! Did you go with ceramic or that new nano particle stuff or just regular tint?
It is Ceramic. for $500 flat out the door it better be decent stuff!
When the engine was changed the AC system was drained and i will need it soon so been trying so vacuum it down since yesterday afternoon.
Pulls down fine but if i let it sit for a 1/2 hour the gauge is back at 0.
I changed all the O rings under the hood including the two at the compressor. Some twice but it just will not hold a vacuum. Started looking around where i can not see easily with a mirror and i found where the line that holds the orifice tube has what looks like a crack on the back side where you can't see without a mirror.
Did not remove it yet so i can keep it more or less sealed up but i do have a new one ordered.
Hope the new line fixes it because if the leak is in back evaporator that will be a real PITA to fix!
Pulls down fine but if i let it sit for a 1/2 hour the gauge is back at 0.
I changed all the O rings under the hood including the two at the compressor. Some twice but it just will not hold a vacuum. Started looking around where i can not see easily with a mirror and i found where the line that holds the orifice tube has what looks like a crack on the back side where you can't see without a mirror.
Did not remove it yet so i can keep it more or less sealed up but i do have a new one ordered.
Hope the new line fixes it because if the leak is in back evaporator that will be a real PITA to fix!
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