Talk me into, or out of, it...

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someotherguy

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DAMN! I've had my dually longer and done almost nothing, and here you've already made yours a nice driver.
Maybe the pics are misleading. It's got a high/hunting idle, no A/C, typical NV4500 1st-2nd grind, absolutely destroyed dashboard, and blown out shocks that have it bobbing around on the road like a Caddy ready for the scrapyard. :anitoof: It's coming along though, lol..

Richard
 

fancyTBI

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Maybe the pics are misleading. It's got a high/hunting idle, no A/C, typical NV4500 1st-2nd grind, absolutely destroyed dashboard, and blown out shocks that have it bobbing around on the road like a Caddy ready for the scrapyard. :anitoof: It's coming along though, lol..

Richard
I’ve never related to a comment as much as this one.
 

someotherguy

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Belltech sent the correct c-notch part.. gotta say I was worried since I bought the kit through amazon that it was gonna be a pain to get Belltech to make this right. Fortunately it went pretty well.

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Unfortunately now this means I gotta get out there and do some hard work.. like starting with grinding the welds out of the gooseneck hitch setup, which looks like more of the previous owner's handiwork. The brackets aren't bolted in, it looks more like a big piece of steel plate welded to the frame rails. :( Man, I really, really, REALLY don't have room to take the bed off the truck for any of this work.

Maybe I'll make myself feel accomplished by doing the headlights and turn signals first..

Richard
 

someotherguy

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Yep.. accomplishment!! lol

Old, icky, eww.. and btw, a clear example of what I mean when I say even the OEM lights often sit crooked. These are the 1993 original Sylvania headlights, with the droopy effect going on:
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TYC capa-certified headlights, and capa driver signal.. dunno why but these nerds sent me the "regular" passenger signal. Even the boxes are different. Nobody cares anymore, they just throw whatever in the box and ship it!
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Maybe now I can see to drive this thing at night. Aiming will come after I drop it, because I'm not planning on doing any real driving with it until the drop is done.
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And yes, those are 1994-up signals. They fit OK but are canted slightly inwards at the top; the 1988-1993 signals are actually designed with a "slope" from top to bottom, instead of flat like 1994-up. Since my plans are to eventually go with a 1994-up grille, I figured no sense in buying a new pair of old style signals.

Guess I'll be trying to adjust those bumper brackets soon..

Richard
 

618 Syndicate

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Yep.. accomplishment!! lol

Old, icky, eww.. and btw, a clear example of what I mean when I say even the OEM lights often sit crooked. These are the 1993 original Sylvania headlights, with the droopy effect going on:
You must be registered for see images attach


TYC capa-certified headlights, and capa driver signal.. dunno why but these nerds sent me the "regular" passenger signal. Even the boxes are different. Nobody cares anymore, they just throw whatever in the box and ship it!
You must be registered for see images attach


Maybe now I can see to drive this thing at night. Aiming will come after I drop it, because I'm not planning on doing any real driving with it until the drop is done.
You must be registered for see images attach


And yes, those are 1994-up signals. They fit OK but are canted slightly inwards at the top; the 1988-1993 signals are actually designed with a "slope" from top to bottom, instead of flat like 1994-up. Since my plans are to eventually go with a 1994-up grille, I figured no sense in buying a new pair of old style signals.

Guess I'll be trying to adjust those bumper brackets soon..

Richard
Great job.
Now go cut that plate out and drop that bìtch.
 

fancyTBI

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Yep.. accomplishment!! lol

Old, icky, eww.. and btw, a clear example of what I mean when I say even the OEM lights often sit crooked. These are the 1993 original Sylvania headlights, with the droopy effect going on:
You must be registered for see images attach


TYC capa-certified headlights, and capa driver signal.. dunno why but these nerds sent me the "regular" passenger signal. Even the boxes are different. Nobody cares anymore, they just throw whatever in the box and ship it!
You must be registered for see images attach


Maybe now I can see to drive this thing at night. Aiming will come after I drop it, because I'm not planning on doing any real driving with it until the drop is done.
You must be registered for see images attach


And yes, those are 1994-up signals. They fit OK but are canted slightly inwards at the top; the 1988-1993 signals are actually designed with a "slope" from top to bottom, instead of flat like 1994-up. Since my plans are to eventually go with a 1994-up grille, I figured no sense in buying a new pair of old style signals.

Guess I'll be trying to adjust those bumper brackets soon..

Richard
Good to know on the turn signals. I’ll have to buy some older style ones when I put on my 88-93 grille.
 

someotherguy

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Good to know on the turn signals. I’ll have to buy some older style ones when I put on my 88-93 grille.
Yep, and those weird little plastic spacer things that snap into the clip holes, not the same as the ones in the 94-up grille, not even close. They space the lamps away from the grille but also serve as the plastic push nuts.

Got some work done today.. here's the issue; the home-made gooseneck plate WELDED to the frame.
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Gotta raise the bed, so onto the battle with the bed bolts. Maybe 3 of them came out without issue, the rest put up a fight, and of course the 2 that you can't reach with an impact (the ones on each side near the spare tire hoist crossmember.) Shot 'em through the holes in the bed supports ahead of time with Blaster, and heated a few hoping to help release the threadlocker. Man, I'm glad I replaced my 1/2" impact, as I really needed it several times here. My new-to-me "vintage" (Japanese) Husky did OK. Whole fight took about 1.5 hrs, one side of the bumper bracket had to come loose, too, as it was binding on the rear bed bolt's washer.
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Lifting the bed with the floor jack and a really long 4x4 block..
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To support it with smaller 4x4 blocks. Used a scissor jack later to get a little more room and turn the blocks on end.
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Really just barely enough room to work with the grinder. The shorter beads across the top of the frame are way harder to reach, especially without putting my face in the stream of sparks. I've got a face shield but I have zero faith in it stopping pieces of grinding wheel. About an hour later I've got the long bead cut through 100% and have started on the smaller ones on the top of the frame. Driver side, anyway. So I'm approaching halfway done. Ran outta death wheels, so I had to come inside and clean up as it'll be dinnertime soon enough, hope I can squeeze in a run to the box store and pick up more wheels first.
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Yeah.. so I missed with the grinder. It's not a deep cut. ;)

Richard
 

Caman96

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Yep, and those weird little plastic spacer things that snap into the clip holes, not the same as the ones in the 94-up grille, not even close. They space the lamps away from the grille but also serve as the plastic push nuts.

Got some work done today.. here's the issue; the home-made gooseneck plate WELDED to the frame.
You must be registered for see images attach


Gotta raise the bed, so onto the battle with the bed bolts. Maybe 3 of them came out without issue, the rest put up a fight, and of course the 2 that you can't reach with an impact (the ones on each side near the spare tire hoist crossmember.) Shot 'em through the holes in the bed supports ahead of time with Blaster, and heated a few hoping to help release the threadlocker. Man, I'm glad I replaced my 1/2" impact, as I really needed it several times here. My new-to-me "vintage" (Japanese) Husky did OK. Whole fight took about 1.5 hrs, one side of the bumper bracket had to come loose, too, as it was binding on the rear bed bolt's washer.
You must be registered for see images attach


Lifting the bed with the floor jack and a really long 4x4 block..
You must be registered for see images attach


To support it with smaller 4x4 blocks. Used a scissor jack later to get a little more room and turn the blocks on end.
You must be registered for see images attach


Really just barely enough room to work with the grinder. The shorter beads across the top of the frame are way harder to reach, especially without putting my face in the stream of sparks. I've got a face shield but I have zero faith in it stopping pieces of grinding wheel. About an hour later I've got the long bead cut through 100% and have started on the smaller ones on the top of the frame. Driver side, anyway. So I'm approaching halfway done. Ran outta death wheels, so I had to come inside and clean up as it'll be dinnertime soon enough, hope I can squeeze in a run to the box store and pick up more wheels first.
You must be registered for see images attach


Yeah.. so I missed with the grinder. It's not a deep cut. ;)

Richard
Glad your good. Those friggen things :nono:- but they do work.
 

Erik the Awful

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I've got a face shield but I have zero faith in it stopping pieces of grinding wheel.
Of the three times I've had metal removed from my eyes, twice I was grinding with safety glasses on. I use these now.

I do know a guy who had a death wheel explode and imbed in his neck, about a 1/4" from his carotid artery. Stay out of the plane of rotation if you can.
 
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