Any MPG Fans here??

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tayto

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If I were purpose building an engine for fuel economy it would likely be a L99 4.3L Gen II engine. I would stroke it from 3" to 3.875" using a 6" rod. 3.765 x 3.875 bore and stroke for 345 cubic inches. Small bore limits the amount of timing needed and helps prevent detonation at high static compression ratios. Then it would get as much compression as physically possible and a smallish camshaft. Then I would use the aluminum LT1 heads milled down as far as possible. I would run it with a GenIV computer backed to a 6L80E automatic and 3.08 rear gear. The intake manifold would be a dual plane MPFI setup with a 90mm DBW throttle body on top. Small 1-1/2" primary Tri-y headers to optimize low-midrange torque production. For those that know GM well that is very close to the bore/stroke of a Buick 350 and those engines were well known as producing noticeably more torque than the 350 SBC. I did the tuning on a TBI swapped Buick 350 in an old Jeep Wagoneer (factory engine for that Jeep) and it had loads of low-midrange torque. That Buick 350 would spin 37s in 4 hi on dry pavement. That Jeep later had a 4L80E swapped into it and even on 37s the 350 chugged along at 70 mph effortlessly at 1,850 rpm.
was there any marine dual plane intakes that had multiport but the regular SBC intake bolt pattern, NOT vortec? i was thinking about going TPI on my squarebody, but would rather keep the stock traditional air cleaner if possible.
 

L31MaxExpress

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was there any marine dual plane intakes that had multiport but the regular SBC intake bolt pattern, NOT vortec? i was thinking about going TPI on my squarebody, but would rather keep the stock traditional air cleaner if possible.
I have seen some traditional pattern MPI intakes, but never really paid attention to which ones. Those engines had the 72* angle center bolts like a TBI head.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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If I were purpose building an engine for fuel economy it would likely be a L99 4.3L Gen II engine. I would stroke it from 3" to 3.875" using a 6" rod. 3.765 x 3.875 bore and stroke for 345 cubic inches. Small bore limits the amount of timing needed and helps prevent detonation at high static compression ratios. Then it would get as much compression as physically possible and a smallish camshaft. Then I would use the aluminum LT1 heads milled down as far as possible. I would run it with a GenIV computer backed to a 6L80E automatic and 3.08 rear gear. The intake manifold would be a dual plane MPFI setup with a 90mm DBW throttle body on top. Small 1-1/2" primary Tri-y headers to optimize low-midrange torque production. For those that know GM well that is very close to the bore/stroke of a Buick 350 and those engines were well known as producing noticeably more torque than the 350 SBC. I did the tuning on a TBI swapped Buick 350 in an old Jeep Wagoneer (factory engine for that Jeep) and it had loads of low-midrange torque. That Buick 350 would spin 37s in 4 hi on dry pavement. That Jeep later had a 4L80E swapped into it and even on 37s the 350 chugged along at 70 mph effortlessly at 1,850 rpm.

I would go square or over square because of more efficient pumping.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I would want under square for the low speed torque increase from Idle to ~2,000 rpm. Think Chevy 292, Ford 300 or Oldsmobile 455.

Might be the most fuel-efficient torquey feeling design, but I don't think it's going to win on absolute efficiency.
 

victor II

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My ‘88 C1500 is absolutely stock. When my dad died in ‘07, he left her to me with 89k miles on her. I removed the camper shell and installed a tonneau cover which I much preferred, replaced the towing mirrors with the stock ones, and switched to full synthetic engine oil. And then I carefully evaluated and tuned it. I keep her very well maintained; new plugs, gas filter, dist cap and air filter annually. I change trans and rear end oil with quality products annually. Tires are standard size and kept at recommended pressures and I have the alignment checked annually. With 181k miles on her now, I generally get 16 - 17 mpg in town, and a top of 24 mpg on long highway runs. Driving style is is important and I’m aware of what happens when I drop the hammer lol. I have a blown ‘65 Mustang convertible for that..

My Silverado has the original 350 and a “new” 4 spd automatic that went in when the original failed at 61k miles. Dad had mods done so she shifts firmly. She has the original 3.43 rear end.
 
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