My 1990 C1500 SWB Build - Daily Driver

Looking good J!

Going to rathole the sport wheels?

PolarBear said:

Thanks for following along! I appreciate it.

I'll be honest, the only reason I did the dirty dingo crossmember was because I just wanted to try a fancy crossmember out.

I can't see any reason why a stock crossmember, couldn't work.

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Thats good to know. Yea i imagine just drilling new holes for the stock crossmember is all that would be needed. I tore my truck down and it sat for ahwile since i lost interest. But getting back on it to hopefully get it running this year....i know i kept the factory crossmember....just cant recall where i put it

OutlawDrifter said:

Looking good J!

Going to rathole the sport wheels?

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Thank you! I'm really not sure, I will admit I took pictures of them today. For potential Marketplace listing.

Mando_Obs said:

Thats good to know. Yea i imagine just drilling new holes for the stock crossmember is all that would be needed. I tore my truck down and it sat for ahwile since i lost interest. But getting back on it to hopefully get it running this year....i know i kept the factory crossmember....just cant recall where i put it

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I will say, with the "slider" engine mounts, I just placed the previous 4L80E and AR5 5 speed in the factory position, with the engine forward. So the stock driveshaft would fit.

Truck is now full exhaust. Basically sounds like every 4th gen Fbody, now. LOL

Found the limit of the 6 puck clutch. Its definitely below what it's making now.

Ordered a replacement centerforce clutch rated for 700lb ft. Should be here on Friday.

On an earlier post, you showed a picture of your engine with the GM Musclecar oil pan. How far below the crossmember does this pan protrude? I'm in the process of an LS swap in my '89 Cheyenne, and am wondering about ground clearance with the stock truck pan vs. an aftermarket piece. My truck has only a 2/4 drop, but it's a daily driver.
Been picking up some interesting tidbits from your build that have been very helpful in my project. Thanks for that

While it may sound that way, it does sound good.

You need the Monster Level 3 out of my Z28. It's coming out when I have to do valve springs...probably change the cam at the same time. Going less aggressive.

Did you get the AC in?

Leeztruk said:

On an earlier post, you showed a picture of your engine with the GM Musclecar oil pan. How far below the crossmember does this pan protrude? I'm in the process of an LS swap in my '89 Cheyenne, and am wondering about ground clearance with the stock truck pan vs. an aftermarket piece. My truck has only a 2/4 drop, but it's a daily driver.
Been picking up some interesting tidbits from your build that have been very helpful in my project. Thanks for that

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I appreciate you reading along! Hopefully you managed to pickup some useful information.

In regards to the pan, it's a minimal hang down. I'd definitely take out the collectors on the headers, long before the oil pan even gets a rash. Hopefully this helps, as i'm not infront of the truck right now, to get a picture for you.

OutlawDrifter said:

While it may sound that way, it does sound good.

You need the Monster Level 3 out of my Z28. It's coming out when I have to do valve springs...probably change the cam at the same time. Going less aggressive.

Did you get the AC in?

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I'll be honest, I don't want to touch anything that Monster sells. Planning to get rid of the promod cam?

Not yet on the AC, that was planned for this weekend, but at this point, i'll have some time on the lift changing clutches.

Unless he's talking about Monster clutches? They make good stuff.

PolarBear said:

I'll be honest, I don't want to touch anything that Monster sells. Planning to get rid of the promod cam?

Not yet on the AC, that was planned for this weekend, but at this point, i'll have some time on the lift changing clutches.

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Supercharged111 said:

Unless he's talking about Monster clutches? They make good stuff.

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Yep Monster Clutches is different than Monster Transmissions...completely different companies. Mine is a 6 puck setup rated for 700hp...its way overkill for my 525hp flywheel rig.

Not sure on the cam, and its a ways down the road, I've got about 10k on the swap, should be able to get another 5-10k out of the Comp 918's before they need swapped out. Cam isn't super high lift or duration, just has really aggressive ramp rates. FMS F13 230/232 (.595/.585 lift) on a 112 with a +4 ground in. 10-15 years ago the F13 and F14 were fairly common cams. LS cam tech has come a LOOOONNNGGG ways since then.

Alright, new front engine accessory drive is installed, R4 compressor is fitted. We're fixing to have some frost balls, again.



I do need to shorten my upper radiator hose, twist the output from the water pump a bit more to the center of the engine bay. This FEAD system made everything super tight under hood, both width wise and between the engine and electric fans. Had to move my air intake, it'll fit, but by mere **** hairs.



Next weekend, i'll do the new clutch. Waiting for a few more hydraulic pieces to show up.