Steering Centerlink removal tool

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someotherguy

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I can save you $50. Hit both sides at the same time with your largest hammers as hard as you can. If it doesn't pop loose, you didn't hit it hard enough.
I feel like the tool would be useful if you're working on these all the time - say, if you were a Chevy dealer mechanic at the time these trucks were getting enough miles on them that you might be replacing steering parts.

I'm not too sure why many would need to replace the center link though unless it got physically damaged. The 400 link has no wear parts on it - those are all contained in the tie rods, idler arm, and pitman arm. I suppose if any of those weren't properly torqued then you might egg out the associated hole in the center link.

Richard
 

Rustjunky67

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I can save you $50. Hit both sides at the same time with your largest hammers as hard as you can. If it doesn't pop loose, you didn't hit it hard enough.
Alright so I've been fighting this #@$%/= center link for 2 days and u can't get it to budge..... even using a ball joint separator.....I have not hit both ends at the same time though..... where and in which direction should I be hitting them? I'm about ready to hit the whole truck with some 50 cal rounds at this point
 

evilunclegrimace

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They make a two jaw puller for tie rod ends that works very well for this procedure. But in fifty years I have only changed a handful of center links on LD trucks or cars.

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Rustjunky67

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They make a two jaw puller for tie rod ends that works very well for this procedure. But in fifty years I have only changed a handful of center links on LD trucks or cars.

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I could swear I've done it before but this thing is trying to beat me...... but it don't know me like that
 

Erik the Awful

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You want to hit the meatiest part surrounding the stud on opposing sides at exactly the same time, and really f***ing hard.

Sometimes you can't get straight onto opposing sides, and being a little off doesn't hurt. Sometimes you don't get it timed right, especially with different weight hammers, but that does matter. It's the magic of making both sides of that metal deform at the same time. If you do it right, the taper will pop loose and eject in that split second before the steel springs back to shape to grip it. You'll know if you hit it right because the hammers will kick back nicely from each other's impact.
 

offroadtahoe

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For me with the kryptonite pitman,that tool was the only way to get it off it was hard even for it,also (you can't get a pickle fork under it).

before this tool id just take off the wheels,turn the wheel to one side and pickle fork pitman or idler.

that tool makes short work of stock one's though no need to remove wheels anymore
 

Erik the Awful

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Yup, I use my largest ball peen and a mini sledge.

Another good idea if it's really stuck is to put a heavy amount of tension on it with the pitman tool and then smack it with both hammers. Some times there's not enough space for this, though.
 
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