Brake line burst

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Schurkey

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Going from master to rear wheel cylinders could take a LONG time. In fact, you may not be able to gravity bleed if the system is empty except for the master cylinder. May have to encourage it with some two-person pedal-pumping before it'll gravity-bleed.

As with any bleeding, you'll let it drip until the fluid coming out
1. Has no air bubbles, and
2. Looks virgin-fresh.

You'll need a scan tool to bleed the ABS unit, unless this vehicle is old enough to have the iron-body RWAL system. If it's got the aluminum RWAL, or the newer 4-wheel ABS, you have to have a scan tool.
 

JPVortex

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Going from master to rear wheel cylinders could take a LONG time. In fact, you may not be able to gravity bleed if the system is empty except for the master cylinder. May have to encourage it with some two-person pedal-pumping before it'll gravity-bleed.

As with any bleeding, you'll let it drip until the fluid coming out
1. Has no air bubbles, and
2. Looks virgin-fresh.

You'll need a scan tool to bleed the ABS unit, unless this vehicle is old enough to have the iron-body RWAL system. If it's got the aluminum RWAL, or the newer 4-wheel ABS, you have to have a scan tool.
Yeah I was thinking that too, probably going to take forever.

As for the abs, it had 2 wheel abs but I deleted it today, putting the rear brake line into the proportioning valve instead of the abs valve.
 

JPVortex

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I'll try gravity bleeding for like an hour and see if anything happens.
 

JPVortex

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The truck has brakes again! The pedal is slightly spongy but its pretty good and doesnt come close to the floor. Will prob bleed a bit more, but for just an hour of gravity bleeding it's pretty ******* good.

Brake light was on and I only had the fronts for the first couple stops till the proportioning valve reset itself, then I got the rears
 

RichLo

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With a completely empty system you need to push the air past the lowest spot before gravity bleeding otherwise it'll just sit up by the master. I would open the bleeder, pump a couple resovoirs full into the system until there is mostly fluid coming out of the bleeder then gravity bleed for an hour. If some air comes back through the bleeder its ok as long as you keep pumping to get all the air past the lowest part under the cab before gravity takes over.
 

JPVortex

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With a completely empty system you need to push the air past the lowest spot before gravity bleeding otherwise it'll just sit up by the master. I would open the bleeder, pump a couple resovoirs full into the system until there is mostly fluid coming out of the bleeder then gravity bleed for an hour. If some air comes back through the bleeder its ok as long as you keep pumping to get all the air past the lowest part under the cab before gravity takes over.
I don't think I'll need to do this. They're already bled pretty decently, and I have a pretty good pedal, with a tiny bit of sponginess that I've been told by many people is common for these trucks

Tested an emergency stop and it stopped good.
 

Schurkey

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If you have any sponginess AFTER the ABS has been deleted...there's either air in the system, or the flexible brake hoses are shot.

First Guess: Air, not hoses in your case. But you should inspect the hoses.

It's not the proportioning valve that "resets", it's the safety switch that turns off the light on the dash. And it shouldn't interfere with rear brake operation.
 

JPVortex

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If you have any sponginess AFTER the ABS has been deleted...there's either air in the system, or the flexible brake hoses are shot.

First Guess: Air, not hoses in your case. But you should inspect the hoses.

It's not the proportioning valve that "resets", it's the safety switch that turns off the light on the dash. And it shouldn't interfere with rear brake operation.
Ok thanks, I'll continue bleeding a bit
 
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