Cognito braces and steering dampner

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offroadtahoe

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If you want to run the Cognito Pisk kit with a steering stabilizer,the rough country steering stabilizer kit that comes for 0-3" lifted trucks will not work the bracket is directly in the way of the steering brace upgrade

kryptonite just came out with this but you have to use there upgrade center link,or a stock k2500/3500 center link.kryptonite's center link upgrades handling at the expense of a little turning radius (a little more straight then stock)
https://kryptoniteproducts.com/coll...bolt-on-steering-stabilizer-bracket-1988-1998 the bracket is at an angle,probably lets you install it in the center just like factory without hitting pisk kit.


you can run this kit with no issues with pisk kit just flush against the bottom and corner of the frame
you can use the stock center link with the bracket's that come's in the (bds part #55328 for the bracket kit), (85401 for the dampener),rancho makes the same kit and also seperates them if you want to run a different stabilizer RANCHO RS97265
i opted to just use a center link i had laying around as it the taper also comes with the kit's
 

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Caman96

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Do you really need the dampener with the Cognito’s?
 

offroadtahoe

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You wouldn't think so being solid,you probably won't tell a difference unless you run big tires,but it made a huge difference in bumpsteer,It's become alot more enjoyable to drive all around,
 

Schurkey

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Looked at the patent, and the Cognito video for the PISK. The video is shot from angles that leave the source of the wear indeterminate. Could be the outer joint of the idler arm, could be the inner.

Does that actually do anything useful? It's supporting the outboard joint of the idler arm (and Pitman arm) at the center link. But that's not where I see the most trouble with idler arms. The problem I see with the typical idler arm is where the arm pivots at the frame bracket; and the PISK does nothing to support that joint.

My first impression is that it's a do-nothing part designed primarily to remove money from your bank account. The rod-ends used in the PISK don't appear to be sealed, or permanently lubricated, thus subject to premature wear.

Maybe I'm wrong.
 
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Caman96

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If one side of Pitman/Idler is stabilized, at least some stabilization must be transferred through entire piece. I wouldn’t change a thing in my front end.
 

offroadtahoe

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Looked at the patent, and the Cognito video for the PISK. The video is shot from angles that leave the source of the wear indeterminate. Could be the outer joint of the idler arm, could be the inner.

Does that actually do anything useful? It's supporting the outboard joint of the idler arm (and Pitman arm) at the center link. But that's not where I see the most trouble with idler arms. The problem I see with the typical idler arm is where the arm pivots at the frame bracket; and the PISK does nothing to support that joint.

My first impression is that it's a do-nothing part designed primarily to remove money from your bank account. The rod-ends used in the PISK don't appear to be sealed, or permanently lubricated, thus subject to premature wear.

Maybe I'm wrong.
The stuff im doing i took from duramax guys forums,they have to run the pisk kit or they break stock tie rod's,it stops the centerlink movement with all their torque.most comment how after that they can now launch in a straight line,as stated before with small tires probably overkill,but with big ones it tends to prematurely wear the idler/pitman


i was iffy about them a year or so ago most of the reason i didn't want to run them is exposed helm joints,but there as solid as the day i put them in,and there only 20$ to replace from kryptonite

they absolutely keep the toe in check,and stop premature wear from it being double sheared,

without the supersteer i see how the pisk can be less effective (idler arm bracket movement from brass bushing)

but ive been using the supersteer for the frame bracket side,its adjustable so u don't have ever have to replace it,and fixes all the play the brass bushing versions have because its a tapered bearing instead.
 
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offroadtahoe

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Didn't end up going this route.specs show stablizer tube is a bit longer,and might affect turn radius.although I have not confirmed this.(might be the same tube length as bilstien)..I did get a bilstien version dampner for the durmax trucks,for bigger wheels it is a huge difference in handling,bump steer compared to regular dampners
 

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navyboy65

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Do you know what Bilstein you got? (Been looking at the 33-174525?)
I installed the Cognito PISK and ran into the same interference with the dampener/stabilizer set up I have. Removed it for now. Was going to do the Rancho kit but would rather have a Bilstein. Already have a K2500 center/drag link installed that has the OEM provision for a stabilizer, so just need the bracket to the "Frame". Thanks for the write up, was a big help for me! (my set up 94 K1500 mostly stock)
 

offroadtahoe

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Do you know what Bilstein you got? (Been looking at the 33-174525?)
I installed the Cognito PISK and ran into the same interference with the dampener/stabilizer set up I have. Removed it for now. Was going to do the Rancho kit but would rather have a Bilstein. Already have a K2500 center/drag link installed that has the OEM provision for a stabilizer, so just need the bracket to the "Frame". Thanks for the write up, was a big help for me! (my set up 94 K1500 mostly stock)
yes the bilstein is the 33-174525

bds part #55328 is the bracket kit i used.on a stock k2500-3500 the bracket is welded a hair to the left and up.I installed mine flush to the bottom and flush to the right (where the frame opening is)

when bolting up a bilstein dampner the frame side mount hole on the bilstein is a bit bigger i just placed washers that came with the kit on the inside of the mounting bolt,and it is solid(the kryponite kit also uses these spacers but custom for the bigger hole and the bracket is more angled)
 
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