Broken Timing Gear Bolt in Cam? Need a new Cam? Recommendations for a lifted DD?

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Schurkey

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There's very little that I grab a torque wrench for. Lugnuts, internal engine bolts, and a few other things. Still, I own at least 5 torque wrenches of different sizes.
That was me, thirty-something years ago.

Got my aass torn-off by my Supervisor for not putting a torque wrench on Detroit Diesel 6V92--Allison torque converter bolts. I was spinning them in with my impact wrench, giving them what are now called "one or two ugga-duggas". He yelled so loud the entire work force stopped (~35 people, more or less) while he ranted.

The torque spec on the drawing ("blueprint") called for 35 ft/lbs. But as was often the case, the Company "Engineers" (college-degree idiots) had the wrong spec, it was supposed to be 90 ft/lbs...which was what I was achieving using "mechanic's feel" on the impact wrench.

Anyway, to shorten the story...I went home, ordered the MARVELOUS book by Carroll Smith "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook", and read it cover-to-cover. Been using torque wrenches fairly religiously ever since.

There's other books on approximately the same subject matter by Mike Mavrigian, Forbes Aird, John Deere, and others...and they're worth reading, but not as good as the Carroll Smith book.

www.amazon.com/Nuts-Bolts-Fasteners-Plumbing-Handbook/dp/B001OXCTSI?ref_=ast_sto_dp

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boy&hisdogs

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Well it's been a while, but I ended up just putting it back together with two grade 8 bolts and Loctite. Just couldn't get a bit to bite in the bolt, and I just need to get the thing running for the time being. Had to crank it a bit at first, I'm assuming since it's been sitting so long but it did start and run and idle smoothly for 20ish minutes before I shut it off for the night. The idle was a little fast so a few days later I started it up again, and moved the distributer little by little until it was back in spec. It started and idled smooth, no misses, on the two days I worked on it... then wouldn't start again. It'll cough and fire a few cylinders here and there but won't actually start.

Now it's giving me a code P1351 code which Google says means "Unusual voltage at ICM" for GM vehicles. I took the ICM to a parts store and they ran it on their test machine several times, no issues. And again, it was running just a few days before, all I did was change the oil between the time it ran and the time it didn't. No other codes, the misfire codes are gone now.
 
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SlowZ71

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I haven’t had to do an emissions test in California in almost 10 years, but when did they start requiring an ecm to be stock? If you tune the black box with efi live or hp tuners, even if they connected to it, they wouldn’t even know what they were looking at. Last time I did my stepside, it passed with flying colors, even with a cam and tune, in 2013 (Oceanside) and 2014 (Dublin-Bay Area). What changed since then?
 

boy&hisdogs

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First I heard about it was 6--8 months ago.

I don't know when the actual change took place.

It started getting enforced in 2021

 

L31MaxExpress

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I haven’t had to do an emissions test in California in almost 10 years, but when did they start requiring an ecm to be stock? If you tune the black box with efi live or hp tuners, even if they connected to it, they wouldn’t even know what they were looking at. Last time I did my stepside, it passed with flying colors, even with a cam and tune, in 2013 (Oceanside) and 2014 (Dublin-Bay Area). What changed since then?
Actually they DO know what they are looking at. The checksums would not match in the calibration and it would be an instant fail. Change one value in the calibration and the checksum value changes. I use the GM database all the time to look at the CVNs to know if a calibration I am looking at is bone stock. All I have to do is pull it off the GM database by the VIN number.
 
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