My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

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PlayingWithTBI

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We got the short block un-crated and hung on the engine stand. I had to take a Sawzall and cut one side of the crate so the legs of my cherry picker could straddle it. I found a new Blue Print dipstick, which I had already ordered one. Anyone want one? Let me know, maybe just pay shipping?

They didn't include a fuel pump block off plate, WTF? Anyway, we decided to recondition the heads - stripped them down, and checked the valve guides. Decided to replace the valves and lap them, even though the seats didn't look bad but, I had a couple valve stems damaged, like maybe we had a dry start?

Here's the bare head with the valves removed.
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Here's the replacement valves - FWIU this brand is well respected, according to the kid, LOL
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After lapping them, clean up, some assembly lube, here they are in place.
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Next is to throw them on along with other peripherals, and get ready to drop the engine in :biggrin:
 

L31MaxExpress

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the weight difference is what sold it for me. ever dropped the old sbc starter on your face while trying to install it? i'd like to say it's only happened to me once.....

Does dropping a Frigidaire A6 on your foot count for anything?? Luckly it only made it a foot or so off the ground before the box it was packaged in from Four Seasons fell apart.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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the weight difference is what sold it for me. ever dropped the old sbc starter on your face while trying to install it? i'd like to say it's only happened to me once.....
Not on my face but caught it in the chest once. The worst ones for weight are the old GM starters from the 40s and 50s when everything is cast iron or steel on the outside, plus the actual electric motor and windings....
 

PlayingWithTBI

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We got the heads on and torqued,
www.gmt400.com/threads/funny-stuff.49135/post-1296559

JK -

As suggested by @L31MaxExpress (IIRC) I sanded the flat side of the ARP washers. Then I put a dab of ARP assembly lube under the bolt head and sealant on the threads of each bolt.
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Notice how tight it is between the valve springs in the center of the head, I purposely ordered 12pt bolts because I was afraid a 6pt head and socket wouldn't fit. As it was my 12 socket was a pretty tight fit since I don't have a deep well one in 12pt.
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I like the 400 balancer that came with the short block. You don't even need a dial timing light to check it.

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Just about ready to drop it in after I check push rod length for rocker to valve stem geometry. I'm upgrading some of the wiring including moving the Knock Sensor over to the other side, 2AWG positive cable to the starter, 4AWG power wire to the terminal block on the firewall (need to find a new fusible link for it), 2AWG ground from the block to the battery, cleaning up the "S" wire to the starter (somebody cut the purple wire back, crimped, and taped, a new wire in. I'm gonna redo that with heat shrink crimp connector and ensure all the corrosion, if any, is gone. I'm rerouting them all so I can eliminate that phony tube that protects them from the heat of the exhaust. That way it's way easier to get to the Y-pipe flange bolts. :biggrin:
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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I checked the push rod length with this cam, it does have a little different base circle than the other one but, only about 1/8" which didn't change the position of the rocker roller to valve stem much. So I went with the same push rods. We set lifter preload with the engine out, it's easier to get to the back cylinders than when inside.

Here's the engine going in. You can see where I'm laying out the "Big Three" upgrade. I'm running 2 AWG to the starter, 4 AWG to the distribution block (it'll have a 100 AMP inline fuse where the original too small fusible link was), and 2 AWG from the front of the engine to the battery negative terminal. I'll insulate them where needed too.
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My son brought his 1/2" drive "transmission" extensions, I guess that's what they call them in the Snap On tool catalog :anitoof: The shorter one even has a locking end so the socket can't get pulled off when in tight places.
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Got the engine in and torque converter bolted up. Hopefully we'll make some noise next week :biggrin:
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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It’s been a hell of a journey, I’m excited for you!
Thanks, with other stuff going on we're pretty much only working on it one day a week. I go out and do some little stuff, time permitting, during the week :33:

With construction going on I-10 my son sat in traffic for 2 hours Saturday to get here :rolleyes: It'll get done when it gets done :biggrin:
 
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