Replace clutch at 35k miles? Unever wear

HopHead357 · Feb 21, 2023

Hello all. About 35k miles ago, I did a NV4500 swap and have had no issues with the clutch or transmission whatsoever. I am now in the process of dropping a new GM crate motor into my truck and have the old motor and transmission.

I've inspected the clutch disk and see there is some very slight uneven wear. Is this normal and should I just throw it back in? Or should I replace it at only 35k miles?

You can see what I am talking about in the pictures at the ~6 o'clock position.

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GoToGuy · Feb 21, 2023

Clutch plate is cheap, compared to having to go through it all again if you already have it all apart.
If the clutch is not true and plumb to spline shaft and pressure plate/ flywheel there will be uneven wear as surfaces make uneven contact wear. The plate is also flexible and flexing. It is and is not a precision piece.
Me I'd just replace it, especially if it causes concern. In the bigger picture my choice, replace it.
Good luck.

HopHead357 · Feb 21, 2023

Probably a good call. I trying to not replace things I don't need to as I've already spent way more that anticipated. I feel like every time I look at the thing I have throw another parts order in. Haha

How about the fly wheel and pressure plate?

GoToGuy · Feb 21, 2023

How old pressure plate, same as clutch plate? Wavy, dips, cracks, burned spots? Same for flywheel. Daily drive, not rode hard extreme service? Nothing visual, drive it.
Good luck. Check throwout bearing, it's funny how that little part can suddenly go T.U.

HopHead357 · Feb 21, 2023

Yeah, everything is the same age 35K miles and all installed in 12/2010. I’ll have to do a more thorough inspection, but I don’t think there’s any of what you mentioned.

It’s not a daily driver and hasn’t been rode hard. Not sure what you mean by extreme service. I will likely drive it a lot more with the new motor.

Rock Hard Concrete · Feb 21, 2023

You are already there, replace it.

HopHead357 · Feb 23, 2023

I ended up taking the flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate to a transmission shop while i was having some other work done on my transfer case and he agreed the disk is worn and should be replaced. New clutch and pressure plate, machining the fly wheel.

I feel like this should have lasted longer than 35K. Of course, it probably would have if I had never pulled it out in the first place.

RichLo · Feb 23, 2023

It probably would have lasted 100k+ miles if you didnt pull the engine and looked at it. But I agree with everyone else, its a wear item that should be replaced whenever your that deep already.

Also, that wear could have been caused by a bad break-in procedure when it was new. Unlike some people say, go VERY EASY during the first 100+ miles of a new clutch. Dont try to 'bed' it in like people do with brake pads. If your rough on it you'll get a grabby/chattery clutch and uneven wear characteristics like your picture... Brake pads are normally disengaged and clutches are opposite, treat them opposite.

You'll want to slip a new clutch more than normal and let it grab when it wants rather than letting it out fast to force a grab.

GoToGuy · Feb 25, 2023

There's daily driver, or driven three , four days a week no heavy loads, towing. Not living a hard life. Truck A.
Then there is the hard service, every day driven, has service body or some kind of full time load( welder, compressor, adult/ big kid toys) often tows trailer, welder, hay bales, horse trailer, more big toys, etc.
So service schedule normal interval time/ milage intervals, for truck A.
And service schedule heavy, extreme, hard, ( whatever adjective fits) shorter intervals for servicing, maybe opting for heavy duty filter options.
Generally that works for me my 98 Tahoe 4dr 4x4, and 93 K1500 gets normal service. The 95 K2500 gets heavy service schedule.
Good luck. :gmfs:

0xDEADBEEF · Feb 25, 2023

RichLo said:
It probably would have lasted 100k+ miles if you didnt pull the engine and looked at it. But I agree with everyone else, its a wear item that should be replaced whenever your that deep already.

Also, that wear could have been caused by a bad break-in procedure when it was new. Unlike some people say, go VERY EASY during the first 100+ miles of a new clutch. Dont try to 'bed' it in like people do with brake pads. If your rough on it you'll get a grabby/chattery clutch and uneven wear characteristics like your picture... Brake pads are normally disengaged and clutches are opposite, treat them opposite.

You'll want to slip a new clutch more than normal and let it grab when it wants rather than letting it out fast to force a grab.

Yep. I've seen install directions for high performance clutches that recommend 500 miles of easy street driving before track use. Sucks when your car isn't street legal.

Replace clutch at 35k miles? Unever wear

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