L29 0411 Swap - Struggling with crank relearn and P0300

The old distributor could have been worn too, allowing the rotor to swing about as it rotated.

Supercharged111 said:

The old distributor could have been worn too, allowing the rotor to swing about as it rotated.

Click to expand...

That’s what my original was doing, rotor swung about .090 either way, I found after I took it out. I was surprised it didn’t give any indication, like stumbling or a code. It was basically running retarded a few degrees

Piratehunter said:

That’s what my original was doing, rotor swung about .090 either way, I found after I took it out. I was surprised it didn’t give any indication, like stumbling or a code. It was basically running retarded a few degrees

Click to expand...

Could you wiggle the rotor with it installed in the truck?

Supercharged111 said:

Could you wiggle the rotor with it installed in the truck?

Click to expand...

Didn’t check it in the truck. It was out and on the bench when I discovered. I had a new UMP dizzy already, so didn’t give it another thought.

What do you guys make of this?

UMP cap that was on the truck. Maybe 1000 miles…

What would cause these weird corrosion spikes?


I’m kind of loathe to put this stock one back in, the gear doesn’t look great and one of the cap screw holes is cracked…

Reluctanse said:

What do you guys make of this?

UMP cap that was on the truck. Maybe 1000 miles…

What would cause these weird corrosion spikes?

I’m kind of loathe to put this stock one back in, the gear doesn’t look great and one of the cap screw holes is cracked…

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

@Reluctanse no picture of the cap. Not sure what is going on there. The old dizzy gear has normal wear, suppose you could epoxy the screw hole with something that won’t bond the screw to the plastic. Show us the cap

the picture of the cap peaked my interest...rotor phasing maybe?? haven't spent time to understand how to correct on our dizzys...check this article on the spikes on the terminals https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016...sion-and-deposits-and-how-can-you-avoid-them/
this related video too...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM

we

Piratehunter said:

the picture of the cap peaked my interest...rotor phasing maybe?? haven't spent time to understand how to correct on our dizzys...check this article on the spikes on the terminals https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016...sion-and-deposits-and-how-can-you-avoid-them/
this related video too...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM

Click to expand...

Good article. Looking at that and the weird buildup on my terminals, makes sense that my distributor was just not really lined up quite rights. Also explains the inconsistencies I was having.

I think it's possible I never really had the distributor correctly aligned. Coupled with the time it took me to figure out crank relearn and maybe that's how I got where I am.

Out of feels good, I swapped the cam sensor from the OLD distributor on to the new one, because OE electronics > chineseum new stuff. Everything feels tight so I am going to go back in with it. Unless I'm crazy there's no moving parts inside to deal with, and it feels solid, so I'm going to reinstall and follow some correct instructions as far as setting timing.

Ran out of time again with other stuff going on…. Truck is fighting me getting the distributor back in and on the right tooth. Wouldn’t start. If I can’t find a little time in evenings this week it will be the end of February before I can get back to it.

Ok so I was 180 off in all my screwing around. Got that fixed and we are good. But I’m having trouble getting the cmp correct. On what seems like the “correct” tooth I can only get it to 5* before it hits the intake. Moving one tooth back put it at like -13*. I need to maybe test that again but I’m fighting other issues with the truck (heh).

Saw somewhere else someone had a similar issue and had to remove the distributor gear from the shaft and rotate it 180* and they were able to get it timed…

I don’t want to put the stock one back in but maybe I should…