1998 3500 crew/longbed build

ForeverFalcon40 said:

6.5's get a bad wrap b/c GM Techs weren't properly trained from the factory to work on them. They also get a bad wrap b/c you need some tools that can't be purchased from HF and some higher order of thinking compared to a Civic. New owner's also fail to realize its an IDI compared to the Coal Rolling Competition. At the time 6.5 was perfect for what it was compared to 454. Now that diesel is more expensive than gas as well as gas vehicles getting more efficient, owning a diesel is a novelty at this point.

It is 2022, the 6.5 has been perfected as far as correcting all its faults and performance platform is still evolving. I've owned 6.5's for close to 10 years and never left me stranded besides a ****** reman starter from AA.

Out of all the upgrades I have done...my biggest regret from the jump was Upgrading to an Air Dog Fuel System. I had NO IDEA how starved for fuel these trucks till I installed the system. Kinda emabarassing. Also doubles up as a bullet proof mod as you delete the leaky FFM as well as tank sock.

Bullet Proofing...

Relocate PMD to front bumper AS WELL AS KEEP A GOOD WORKING SPARE IN THE GLOVE BOX. I don't like used parts so I keep a BRAND NEW ONE and it saved me one time. On Electronically controlled IP if your truck has a crank no start the first step is to confirm PMD works.

Ditch Vac Pump

Beef Up Ground Wires and Relocate Them

Get Rid Of the Soot Trap

CDR valve

Fluid Dampnr with (Billet Pulley & Arp Hardware is Optional but Preferred but optional)

Confirm Starter Bracket is there as well as switch out 2 Starter Bolts to ARP

Glow Plugs like to swell up and break...I make it a good habit to change them out every 2 years. If money is tight, least you can do is pull them, clean them and re-install with antiseise on them. Best Glow Plugs are Declo's. The Glow Plug Harness is Flmsy...get a beefed up one

Upgrade to a Air Dog Fuel System to get rid of FFM and Tank (there are other ALT that are cheaper but thats for your wallet and you to decide)

Install Power Master starter...cold starts are very boring...The coldest its ever been was -12 and truck fired right up with ease.

A company just came out with coolant upgrade to prevent heads from cracking. I have only seen one kit installed on a hummer. I'm going to pass on tjis MOD, bc I'm going 12v.

If there is something I missed feel free to reach out...of course if you ever have to do headgaskets PLEASE Install ARP. If you plan to turn the boost past 12-15 PSI you plan on running the risk of blowing them without ARP. Personally I have it set to 10 and Mandingo has no issues smoking, whistling and working.

Another cheap upgrade is upgrade to 145 AMP as its a bolt on/plug and play. I wouldn't upgrade till OEM one goes. Also all the power wires to zero gauge.

Just remember maintenance before mods and some these things I mentioned above kill two birds with one stone.

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someotherguy said:

That's all good stuff but when you tell us you're converting to a 12v it kind of blows the argument for the 6.5td.

None of what you mentioned seems to address the blocks cracking in the main bearing area, but I'm guessing (hoping) the later model blocks (Optimizers?) beefed up the weak spots there. What I do see is a long list of stuff that I'm sure adds up to significant effort and cost and you still end up with an engine that still has questionable longevity and just doesn't produce much power. Very poor ROI

If it requires being an expert in 6.5td to keep a 6.5td going and not grenading, you really can't legitimately write off all the issues on the owner or mechanic.

About the only other 2 people I can ever recall that were fans of the 6.5td aren't still fans of them today. Blew them up enough times that they just finally said F it.

Richard

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someotherguy said:

That's all good stuff but when you tell us you're converting to a 12v it kind of blows the argument for the 6.5td.

None of what you mentioned seems to address the blocks cracking in the main bearing area, but I'm guessing (hoping) the later model blocks (Optimizers?) beefed up the weak spots there. What I do see is a long list of stuff that I'm sure adds up to significant effort and cost and you still end up with an engine that still has questionable longevity and just doesn't produce much power. Very poor ROI

If it requires being an expert in 6.5td to keep a 6.5td going and not grenading, you really can't legitimately write off all the issues on the owner or mechanic.

About the only other 2 people I can ever recall that were fans of the 6.5td aren't still fans of them today. Blew them up enough times that they just finally said F it.

Richard

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Orpedcrow said:

Like 6.0 power stroke people

“It’s a great engine! After you spend $20,000 making it daily driver reliable”

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someotherguy said:

That's all good stuff but when you tell us you're converting to a 12v it kind of blows the argument for the 6.5td.

None of what you mentioned seems to address the blocks cracking in the main bearing area, but I'm guessing (hoping) the later model blocks (Optimizers?) beefed up the weak spots there. What I do see is a long list of stuff that I'm sure adds up to significant effort and cost and you still end up with an engine that still has questionable longevity and just doesn't produce much power. Very poor ROI

If it requires being an expert in 6.5td to keep a 6.5td going and not grenading, you really can't legitimately write off all the issues on the owner or mechanic.

About the only other 2 people I can ever recall that were fans of the 6.5td aren't still fans of them today. Blew them up enough times that they just finally said F it.

Richard

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themeec said:

Quick trip to Canada and back was a good shakedown cruise for the gasser. Think the front brake rotors might be a bit warped, but other than that, was a smooth, trouble-free ride.

Didn't have a chance to address the headlight/wiper situation, other than taking yet another look at the wiring harness that goes across the front of the engine bay to check for short/ground issues before taking off on the road (none found).

Beginning to wonder if the stalk might be the issue, as I was reading some threads with some similarly bizarre behavior. On the trip, I'd notice the following:
- If Headlights are turned on (not just markers) wipers will often run
- Sometimes, Headlights are turned on, and wipers do not run
- Most of the time, wipers will stop after a few cycles or several
- Some of the time, wipers will continue to run
- If Headlights are turned on, and then back to marker lights, wipers may continue to run as well
- If wipers are running/going to run, left turn signal light on the dash is illuminated (but turn signal is not activated), and brights indicator light is partially illuminated
- If these turn off, wiper problem goes away
- Sometimes, can get wipers to shut off by cycling Mist/Intermittent selections on the stalk

Think I might be down the right track? I hope so, as it would be an easy and cheap fix.

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7beast said:

These look awesome dropped and bagged! imo

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618 Syndicate said:

That sounds like a ground issue to me. Still maybe stalk related, but these trucks are notorious for bad grounds.

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