Marine Intake

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L31MaxExpress

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I finally got around to messing with the passenger side. I found another broken washer on the lower row and the bolt in the center had cracked and came out nearly as a 2 piece bolt. It was also leaking coolant into #6 through the head gasket, there were signs of coolant ash on the spark plug and exhaust valve. I think these bolts stretched when I was messing around in the throttle hard and the heads almost lifted. On the passenger side some of the bolts were nearly loose and others insanely tight to break loose. The driver side had a few that were very tight as well. On the passenger side I actually compared the loose bolts vs tight ones side by side. The loose bolts had stretched and were longer. I am going to say this was completely the fault of crappy quality Jegs head bolts. The ARP studs are much higher quality and I swear the studs weigh 2x what the Jegs head bolts do. The broken areas of the Jegs bolts look super grainulate like they have air pockets in the metal. I have seen better quality Dorman bolts. I straight edged both the block and head and could not fit a 0.002" feeler gauge anywhere. On both banks I was able to slip the head over the lower row of short studs, but ended up having to install the longer studs after the head was in place. I cleaned all 8 pistons off before I installed the heads, inspecting for signs of detonation pitting and the pistons look new. So apparantly 11:1 with good quench will work even with a tiny cam if you can keep the heads on it.

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L31MaxExpress

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I was also look back through some datalogs when this was running before. With the small cam and rhoads lifter, SOTP it felt like a light switch around 4,000 rpm. When the lifters were restoring to full duration about 4,000 there was a 50-60 gms/sec spike in airflow. So I am hopeful that having full cam duration and lift actually gives it even more midrange torque once it is back on the road. The Rhoads Vmax lifters work very well but in this 383, they need to be paired with a bigger cam like the 232/244 @ 0.050 Bootlegger that was in this when I first built it. The Rhoads lifters would probably work great on a 305 (had them in a L30 with a 222@ 0.050 cam) or 350 with the cam timing I am running, but the 383 with its heads that flow insanely well is air hungry.
 
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L31MaxExpress

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Since I was asked earlier about this. This is the DeatschWerks 12 pin connector to match the AEM "Ford" V8 EV6 injector harness. I have the pinouts listed from the GM harness to the AEM harness matching the cylinders. I also included the GM MAP and L31 Marine Bosch T-Map pinouts. At the time I picked up the AEM harness it was under $30 so it was a cheap way to set it up. The DeatschWerks connectors were also about $30 and I have a whole tray of them left over for other wiring stuff.

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L31MaxExpress

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This is what I use for wiring changes and repairs. I use open crimps and heat shrink for replacing pigtails. I have a decent crimper setup that does most automotive connections you will find.

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L31MaxExpress

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I have a little more looming to go. Then I am wrapping all these with the reflective aluminum heat tape to help keep the plastic looming from getting destroyed by the engine/header heat.

Then it is retorque the head to 65 ft/lbs again after it sat for a few days. Install the RH valve train and adjust the rocker arms. Then on to an intake manifold and RH header. Followed by the valve cover. The distributor and plug wires. An oil/filter change, a little fuel plumbing left, reflash the PCM, and see if it will run.

Once I hear it run and that the valvetrain is quiet, I will re-install all the accessories, the mile long dipstick and fill tubes, air intake, fan shroud, etc. Then I will be to the actual fun part of tuning and driving it.

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tayto

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This is what I use for wiring changes and repairs. I use open crimps and heat shrink for replacing pigtails. I have a decent crimper setup that does most automotive connections you will find.

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Do they make these in 18awg?
 

L31MaxExpress

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Do they make these in 18awg?
They make them in numerous sizes, but in my quick search I did not find a Standard Ignition or Standard Motor product of that size.

I crimp these a little odd for a more solid connection. Most guys crimp only the stripped wired. Since my crimper has wide jaws, I crimp the insulating jacket and wire as one piece. Makes the crimp almost impossible to break or pull apart.

SST300 is 6awg
SST81 is 8awg
SST80 is 10-12awg
SST91 is 14-16 awg

There are also numerous other ones as large as 4/0. That would take a large and expensive battery cable crimper to crush.

Quick google search did show other companies offering 18 awg un-insulated butt connectors.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I also meant to throw in a close up of a failed JEGS head bolt. To me something just looks weirdly off. I have seen busted Grade 5 Dorman Chinese bolts that did not look like they were made of pot metal.

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Carlaisle

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I would be interested to hear what a metallurgist had to say after looking at those bolts. The one in the picture looks like poor quality cast chinesium. Did Jegs ever make/offer to make any amends?

Do you have any opinion/verdict to share on the Scorpion rockers?
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I am not a metallurgist, but I think they were overhardened. In other words, they were too brittle and not able to stretch properly.
 
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