98 305 to 350 swap starter issues

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L31MaxExpress

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@L31MaxExpress I love the all thread idea.
So just remove the bellowing bolts, install all thread, and slide tranny back? How long is the all thread?
I used pieces about 6" long to give me room for the rear main seal and flexplate replacements. I was working on alot of these trucks for a living at the time. I have the same thing setup for LS trucks with metric all thread too. I can get the rear cover off those with the transmission still in the truck in a 2wd. The closed bellhousings make it more of a challenge but can still be done.

I remove 4 bolts, insert all thread, unbolt the converter, remove the remaining bolts and slide it back. Some vehicles the driveshaft has to come out. On 2-piece driveshaft trucks you can usually unbolt only the carrier bearing and get enough space between the two slip yokes to slide the trans back far enough.
 

Schurkey

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If this were me...and I hope it never is, but I do own a 455 Buick block with a cracked starter bolt-hole...
1A. Get a carpenter's square, make sure the BUCKING FONEHEAD that welded that stud got it STRAIGHT in two planes--side/side, front/rear. If that stud isn't square to the block, you're done. Engine comes out, either gets repaired properly (not likely) or the block is scrap (very likely.)

1B. Use that square as a straightedge to verify that no part of the weld droops down into the starter-mounting area. You don't want the starter hanging-up on a weld booger so that it won't sit flush on the block.

2. Use a section of 3/8 ID tubing, or 3/8 plumbing pipe, or a bigass stack of 3/8 washers--whatever spacer seems reasonable and about the same length/depth as the starter casting--and torque a nut onto that stud the same as you'd be tightening a starter bolt. Welding cast iron is not easy, it's easy to create more cracks than you fill with weld-metal. Make sure the stud is properly anchored in the block.

3. There's no way to assure starter alignment since there's no "knurl on the starter bolt" for that hole. Even if the stud is square to the block, and secure in the block...the hole in the starter nose casting is going to be a sloppy fit on the stud. Be careful of the starter alignment; and beware that it could shift under load.

4. IF (big IF) that stud is genuinely straight up 'n' down in relation to the block, AND holds torque when tested, you're kinda on your own for getting a starter in place. You could cut-open the casting around the bolt hole that stud goes through, and hope for the best. You'll never turn that starter in as a "core" the next time the starter fails; which hopefully won't be for a decade or two. There may be other solutions--use your imagination.

I don't envy you. That's a hateful mess that you got left with.
 
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Piratehunter

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FWIW I also have 4 x 6" long pieces of 3/8-16 all thread rod. On the end are two nuts that are double nutted. On 2wd stuff I put them in place of bellhousing bolts. It allows me to slide the transmission back without having to restab and realign the trans using a transmission jack. I have used them for rear main seal and flex plate replacements for years.
I've done the same thing, leaving the double nuts off for alignment when installing engine
 

thinger2

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Stop bud. Do not put any more of your money into it..
Not another ******* dime .

That is what is known as the "lost cause fallacy"
Its a Chevy, yank it out and throw it in the yard and get a better one.
Im pretty sure my wife has a small block chevy in the kitchen junk drawer.
All kinda variious peelers and olive pitting implements and old postage stamps and broken ancient bits of things I promised to repair 20 years ago.
Rummage, flip things over like cooking pancakes.
Is that a friggen small block chevy?
In my kitchen junk drawer?
So we have over the years reached an agreement.
I cant put anymore parts in the dishwasher.
which sucks because a dishwasher will clean the **** out of your wire rims.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Stop bud. Do not put any more of your money into it..
Not another ******* dime .

That is what is known as the "lost cause fallacy"
Its a Chevy, yank it out and throw it in the yard and get a better one.
Im pretty sure my wife has a small block chevy in the kitchen junk drawer.
All kinda variious peelers and olive pitting implements and old postage stamps and broken ancient bits of things I promised to repair 20 years ago.
Rummage, flip things over like cooking pancakes.
Is that a friggen small block chevy?
In my kitchen junk drawer?
So we have over the years reached an agreement.
I cant put anymore parts in the dishwasher.
which sucks because a dishwasher will clean the **** out of your wire rims.
Sounds like it is time to install an old dishwasher in the garage. I mean its not like the water heater in most houses is not there anyway. I have one in my shop that was removed from a house during a remodel. It is noisy but it works and it was nearly free to get up and going. They make a degreasing powder that works awesome too. It is large enough for intake manifolds, cylinder heads, valve covers and accessory brackets too. When I really want something clean it goes in my heated ultrasonic cleaner.
 

Erik the Awful

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Stop bud. Do not put any more of your money into it..
Not another ******* dime .

That is what is known as the "lost cause fallacy"
Its a Chevy, yank it out and throw it in the yard and get a better one.
Im pretty sure my wife has a small block chevy in the kitchen junk drawer.
You're in Georgia. I'm pretty sure you can score a complete 350 from marketplace for under $200. You might have to buy a gasket set and reassemble it, but you'll be money ahead.
 
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