No DRLs

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df2x4

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That's what it's *supposed* to do...whether or not you can tell with the naked eye, dunno. Might take a professional light meter or some such...or even simpler, maybe a clamp style meter over the harness leading to the lights and compare to normal headlight function. It may also be that the current is PWM, which is why you see discussions about LED's (and I would bet HID's too) not being suitable for use as DRL's.

EDIT - yeah, just checked a spare manual I had laying around - according to the 1996 GMC Sierra user's manual, "The DRL system will make your headlamps come on at a reduced brightness when: * the ignition switch is on * the headlamp switch is off * the parking brake is released"

I had to check because I don't think it's necessarily a written rule that all DRL systems that utilize the low beams will operate them at less brightness than normal. It only made sense to me though because of the diode module. They're using it to step down the voltage, which is also why it's on that heat sink.

Richard

Thanks for the detailed response! If it's in the manual, I believe it. I hadn't thought about the PWM signal in regards to it's effect on aftermarket bulbs/LEDs but that's a really good point. All the more reason to stick to halogen.
 

Mr.White98

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Very informative video. I didn't think to check the diode under load. We'll see what happens with that test.
 

PeteyG708

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Sorry to derail this slightly but I'm curious, is this something you've checked? I've seen a few people post this but I can't tell a difference between either of my 97s DRLs and low beams. Never got the multimeter out to check because it's across town in my broken truck.

Interesting. How much does it dim the lights? On my 98, I notice that there is a very negligible difference in light intensity between the DRLs and the standard Low Beams. You could literally drive with just the parking lights and have the (close to) full intensity on the low beams (without the use of the high beam switch).

I know on other GM vehicles, they would use the high beam circuit, but you could tell that there was a huge difference in intensity.

Edit: Never mind, just read the reply directly under your post by Richard.
 

PeteyG708

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The reason I pulled the fuse on DRL is I like to be able to flash my lights to passing trucks or someone trying to turn left in front of you. With DRL activated I need to turn on lights then blink high beams, to much effort.
Yeah, it would be nice to have the flash-to-pass feature. I am sure you can wire one in. Havent figured that one out yet.
 

Caman96

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Just ran through tests in video and for ground test at 16:00 minute mark, I get zero light on test light. I’m thinking my diode is bad.
 

Caman96

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Here is Part 2 of video.
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Caman96

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Anyone know what the bench test diode test voltage is on a NEW DRL diode? Just curious before I pop this NOS GM 10076732 in. I’m getting 1.099 volts, I’ll test the old one when I get it out.
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Macs Garage

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Test it with an ohmmeter. You should have zero or little resistance passing through the diode in one direction. Reverse the ohmmeter cables and you should get infinite or really high resistance. Test with no other wires connected to the diode. Diodes allow electricity to flow in one direction. A Zenor diode allows electricity to flow through it in the direction that it couldn't before when a preset voltage (12v) is reached and there is a voltage drop across the diode. The amount it's dropped depends on how the diode was designed.
 
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