FrankieD61
The Stooge Called Slappy: Slappy'sAutoService
Any recommendations for a good quality hinge pin and roller kit with springs? All of the ones I see are Dorman... Which are sub-par at best.
Door Handle and Door Pin Replacement
- Thread starter Ginger
- Start date
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reservoir dog
I'm Awesome
I went through several sets doing my drivers door , even ordered a set from door pins .com or something like that, the guy said he would make sure the pins and bushings were tight , BS , all of the tolerances are too much. I mixed and matched and did the best I could. I used my motorcycle lift with a couple of 2x4s to protect the bottom of the door, ran a ratchet strap over and looped a couple times around the window frame , I could have done chin ups on it.
I have a post on here about the Dorman pins are garbage. Here is a link to that thread. On page 2 I posted what I used on my truck. There are still holding up grate
Thread 'Dorman hinge pins are garbage.' https://www.gmt400.com/threads/dorman-hinge-pins-are-garbage.51658/
Mammoth_Man
Newbie
Does anybody else have a saggy 3rd door (cargo door/whatever you want to call it) on the extended cab? I think I found the parts but they are all discontinued. I'd probably need a couple of each.
- Rear Door
- 15704627 - Door Hinge Pin
- 15708060 - Door Hinge Bushing
- 15708061 - Door Hinge Bushing
mn_ski
I'm Awesome
Anyone used these bushings made by Cunningham machine?
www.cunninghammachine.com
Heavy Duty Chevrolet/GMC 88-98 Bronze Door Bushings - Cunningham Machine
Heavy Duty door bushings for the 88-98 GM trucks. Made from very high quality self lubricating bronze. Great fix for sagging doors.
www.cunninghammachine.com
Anyone used these bushings made by Cunningham machine?
Heavy Duty Chevrolet/GMC 88-98 Bronze Door Bushings - Cunningham Machine
Heavy Duty door bushings for the 88-98 GM trucks. Made from very high quality self lubricating bronze. Great fix for sagging doors.
Yes, I just had them installed in the front doors of my Suburban around a month ago. Went in smoothly with OEM pins according to my mechanic. Not much time on them yet but so far, so good.
mn_ski
I'm Awesome
Sweet. I installed mine last week. So far so good. The door closes so well.
Had two bent rollers:
Here is what I installed:
Question: I also replaced my drivers side exterior door handle. After doing the swap my door still closes but now it is not tight to the striker. You can push on the door like an 1/8" or so. Also when driving now you can hear the door rattle slightly when going slowly over the road. As part of the handle replacement I loosened the latch in the door. Can that change the closing of the door? I tried adjusting that latch afterwards but it seems like the screw holes are basically 1 position only.
Had two bent rollers:
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Here is what I installed:
You must be registered for see images attach
Question: I also replaced my drivers side exterior door handle. After doing the swap my door still closes but now it is not tight to the striker. You can push on the door like an 1/8" or so. Also when driving now you can hear the door rattle slightly when going slowly over the road. As part of the handle replacement I loosened the latch in the door. Can that change the closing of the door? I tried adjusting that latch afterwards but it seems like the screw holes are basically 1 position only.
someotherguy
Truly Awesome
The latch is positioned by the screws which are countersunk in the sheetmetal, no adjustment. The striker bolt in the door jamb is adjustable, just take care not to unscrew it much or the nut plate behind it will fall loose. Many have found a loose, rattling door is due to old weatherstripping that has become compressed and that replacing it solves the rattle.
Richard
Richard
mn_ski
I'm Awesome
I will adjust the striker I guess. I just seems odd to me that the door closed great before I loosened the latch in the door. I moved the latch not the striker while replacing the handle. Also it is no big deal if the plate inside the cab comes loose when loosening the striker. All you have to do is pop out the cubby in the extended cab and grab it. Not sure what you do on a regular cab I guess.
someotherguy
Truly Awesome
I've been there on an extended cab and you are 100% correct that you can just pop out the rear seat cubby; in other cabs you definitely have more work ahead of you so I wanted to mention the possibility of dropping the nut plate.
You only need to loosen it slightly though to where it will move, snug it back hand-tight, close the door to where you want it then carefully open it as to not disturb the striker position - then tighten that sucker back down and test the fit.
Richard
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