Instant orange peel.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
I get what you're saying. I've never had a problem with Rustoleum until today. That's why I'm ranting and looking for a solution.

So, what do I used to strip this?

In case anyone is wondering, I do have the ability to media blast. I also have a sufficient setup for HVLP painting. I just never use it because the paint is ridiculous $$$ and I don't have a whole lot to paint at the moment.
 

alignman88

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 28, 2020
Messages
178
Reaction score
449
Location
St. Louis
Here, I used these, in this exact order, from left to right. So basically, if I'm understanding this, I screwed myself by switching up paint types by the same manufacture.

You must be registered for see images attach
Not exactly screwed yourself, it’s a learning opportunity lol. I used the exact primer you did that my reply explained. I used it on several little pieces and probably didn’t prep-sol them because it was blast cabinet straight to hung up for primer/paint. You’ll notice if you try to scuff the primer covered piece with 320 or 400 grit to make it slick it will ball up in the paper. Wet sanding will prevent it but due to what I saw I won’t mess with it anymore.

Only rattler can stuff I use if I can help it is the VHT brake caliper paint with ceramic. Use it on little pieces like all body bolts, latches, brackets etc. because it’s more durable and matches the sheen of the Excel Hotrod Satin Black for bigger pieces and very close to the paint I used on the frame for touch up. Here’s my project, the brake booster and steering column out the firewall are the VHT rattle can satin after stripping and making them slick, inner fenders (core support too) all Excel 2 part color/activator “real” paint in satin finish.
 

Attachments

  • 72B19A20-85BA-4A49-A5F1-1D75734F5BFF.jpeg
    72B19A20-85BA-4A49-A5F1-1D75734F5BFF.jpeg
    282.3 KB · Views: 19

alignman88

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 28, 2020
Messages
178
Reaction score
449
Location
St. Louis
I get what you're saying. I've never had a problem with Rustoleum until today. That's why I'm ranting and looking for a solution.

So, what do I used to strip this?

In case anyone is wondering, I do have the ability to media blast. I also have a sufficient setup for HVLP painting. I just never use it because the paint is ridiculous $$$ and I don't have a whole lot to paint at the moment.
Paint shops sell lower cost good paints like Nason and ShopLine as “house brands” or some other phrase. I’m anDupont guy but just color and activator was $230 for quart not counting the clear. They had ShopLine so I got quart color and activator and quart of clear/reducer for $192.00. Money well spent and it laid down really nice using a HVLP Sharpe spray gun.
 

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
Ok thanks for the info. So, since I have the experts' attention at the moment, what do I strip that paint off with? I would use aircraft stripper, but I don't know if that's going to damage the composite header panel.

I could sandblast it. That means finding a blast media that - again - won't damage the header (worse than it already is lol).
 

alignman88

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 28, 2020
Messages
178
Reaction score
449
Location
St. Louis
Ok thanks for the info. So, since I have the experts' attention at the moment, what do I strip that paint off with? I would use aircraft stripper, but I don't know if that's going to damage the composite header panel.

I could sandblast it. That means finding a blast media that - again - won't damage the header (worse than it already is lol).
I’d say a DA sander with some 220 paper but it will likely ball up in the paper. Get a bucket of water and some 220 and wet sand it. Take it most of the way down, then switch to 320 or 400 wet sanded to get it ALL off. Heck you could probably use lacquer thinner on shop towels and wipe it all off for that matter, won’t hurt the fiberglass or rubber nose cone. Try that on a little spot first but the key is to get ecvery bit of it off there.

“Every time we go to school we pay some tuition.” My dads favorite saying, usually followed up with him laughing and calling it “dumba** tax” when he was talking about me lol.
 

Hipster

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
3,388
Reaction score
5,853
Location
Liberty, NC
Ok thanks for the info. So, since I have the experts' attention at the moment, what do I strip that paint off with? I would use aircraft stripper, but I don't know if that's going to damage the composite header panel.

I could sandblast it. That means finding a blast media that - again - won't damage the header (worse than it already is lol).
Do not use aircraft stripper, it can soak into rubber and plastic and you'll never get it neutralized. Even the type of paint stripper made for plastic can swell up the part and is not really a good solution. buzz it quick with a piece of 80 g to get down to primer, then step up to 180g to get down to original factory primer or plastic. One you start sanding you won't be able to see the lifted areas so clearly so it's best to take it all off.

In a pro shop there is no spray can products that are really used in the prep to painting process. No spray can primers or paints etc. It only takes that "one time" and make a mess that takes hours or days to clean up.

I have had it do it to a whole car painting over someone else prep. Dealt with the mess for days. People show up with a self prepped car.....I walk away. They typically don't understand the dis-service they've done to themselves when I tell them I need to strip all their spray can work off and start over.
 
Last edited:

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
I’d say a DA sander with some 220 paper but it will likely ball up in the paper. Get a bucket of water and some 220 and wet sand it. Take it most of the way down, then switch to 320 or 400 wet sanded to get it ALL off. Heck you could probably use lacquer thinner on shop towels and wipe it all off for that matter, won’t hurt the fiberglass or rubber nose cone. Try that on a little spot first but the key is to get ecvery bit of it off there.

“Every time we go to school we pay some tuition.” My dads favorite saying, usually followed up with him laughing and calling it “dumba** tax” when he was talking about me lol.
Ok thanks. This is exact answer I needed. I can get 220 wet sand paper easily enough. Lacquer thinner is no problem, either. I might even have some laying around the garage. Alright, time to go shopping, lol. Now, as for the paint...... I'm not straying from Rustoleum because it's affordable. I don't need Mecum level results here. I just don't want the car being 15 different shades of primer and black lol.

So, I need to get the Professional paint and NOT the Stops Rust. Or do I have that backwards?
 

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
@alignman88 The lacquer thinner is doing it's job, slowly. It's like trying to rub off pine sap with Goo Gone from a car that's been sitting under an evergreen for 30 years.

No wet sandpaper. No where has it in stock. Have to order it from somewhere. So, that leaves me with 150 grit dry. Not a great mix with lacquer. Everything is a sticky mess now. Sigh....
 

RichLo

E I E I O
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
3,620
Reaction score
5,542
Location
Wisconsin
I know this isnt the answer that paint people want to hear on here but if you have a good spray gun and an air compressor that wont give up halfway through... AND your on a budget without straying from Rustoleum. Get a gallon of SINGLE STAGE Rustoleum, add some hardener and thinner and go at it. Run 2 or 3 coats and it'll last for a few years BUT dont expect to add good paint on top later on, that rustoleum will have to be totally stripped before good auto paint is sprayed. Just a warning before continuing with rustoleum.

I've done this with a few low dollar projects (1000gallon Propane tank, Snow Plow Truck, etc) and it turned out good, not great but good enough. When I prepped really well and took my time on spraying the tank it is still holding up really well. When I just wanted to make the truck 1-color it is flaking and the roof isn't holding up to UV very well.

Edit, That bumper probably deserves better than that treatment. I have learned that nice paint is something left to the pro's. It'll look perfect, last forever, and save you multiple migraines.
 
Last edited:

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
I know this isnt the answer that paint people want to hear on here but if you have a good spray gun and an air compressor that wont give up halfway through... AND your on a budget without straying from Rustoleum. Get a gallon of SINGLE STAGE Rustoleum, add some hardener and thinner and go at it. Run 2 or 3 coats and it'll last for a few years BUT dont expect to add good paint on top later on, that rustoleum will have to be totally stripped before good auto paint is sprayed. Just a warning before continuing with rustoleum.

I've done this with a few low dollar projects (1000gallon Propane tank, Snow Plow Truck, etc) and it turned out good, not great but good enough. When I prepped really well and took my time on spraying the tank it is still holding up really well. When I just wanted to make the truck 1-color it is flaking and the roof isn't holding up to UV very well.

Edit, That bumper probably deserves better than that treatment. I have learned that nice paint is something left to the pro's. It'll look perfect, last forever, and save you multiple migraines.

I see. I'm also conflicted. Rustoleum has never caused a problem for me until today. My F-I-L called earlier today and well, he has been doing bodywork his whole life. My Wife explained what was going on, at which point FIL said strip all the paint off with aircraft stripper, just don't let it sit. Then, bring it over.

Also, it's not a bumper. It's a header panel. The bumper to that car weighs about 150 lbs. Fekkkin ridiculous.
 
Top