Front Lower Control Arms

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offroadtahoe

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i found this yesterday,besides making a bracket could be a solution for those who want forged arms!
 

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  • Screenshot 2022-11-12 at 11-17-13 1995 K2500 Lower Control Arm Replacement Part Available.png
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Schurkey

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I'd be happier if he included the before/after alignment specs for that control arm swap.

Wild Guess with no evidence: If it changes the ride-height, it's changing the toe, camber, and caster as well. Maybe also changing the turning radius, bump steer, and other angles not routinely measured by the typical "alignment rack".
 

Rustbucket79

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Only good news.
I have a new tool in the collection (bushing press) and the Astro LCA is in place. Thanks for the help and inputs.

But for future reference.
I bought RK641493 and RK641492 ULTRA-POWER from rock auto.
The reason I picked those was that on the picture the ball joint was bolted on, and I wanted to change it.

Three of four bushings was not pressed in enough on my control arms. Easy fix if you have the tools..
The ball joints that was on it did not impress (but might be good, what do I know). The boot fell of before I picked it out of the box?
Isnt it standard with retainer clip or something?

But now they are on and I can start swearing over other things!

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LCALDERA98

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parts came in last week order it on Thursdays afternoon came in Friday Moring


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question do i need to take off both torsion bars ??? or can i get away with just taking one out ???
 

Caman96

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Why did GM convert to press in lower ball joints? Anyone? Was there flex in bolt on design?
 

Rustbucket79

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parts came in last week order it on Thursdays afternoon came in Friday Moring



question do i need to take off both torsion bars ??? or can i get away with just taking one out ???
I didnt remove my torsion bars, just raised the truck and dropped the LCA until all tension was off. Then moved the LCA forward (theoretically, I ended upp cutting away mine), but the installation of the new one went fairly easy with the bars in place.

But if you are removing the bars I guess you have to do both to move the crossmenber backwards.
 
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Schurkey

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I have a new tool in the collection (bushing press) and the Astro LCA is in place. Thanks for the help and inputs.

But for future reference.
I bought RK641493 and RK641492 ULTRA-POWER from rock auto.
The reason I picked those was that on the picture the ball joint was bolted on, and I wanted to change it.
The ball joint bolts on. They're EASY to change. I don't know why you'd replace new ball joints with different new ball joints, when you could use the ball joints that came on the arm until they wore-out, and THEN change them easily, years from now.

Three of four bushings was not pressed in enough on my control arms. Easy fix if you have the tools.
The ball joints that was on it did not impress (but might be good, what do I know). The boot fell of before I picked it out of the box?
Isnt it standard with retainer clip or something?

But now they are on and I can start swearing over other things!

You must be registered for see images attach
Using the bushing press is a fine idea for cramming the bushing fully into the arms.

HOWEVER, your photo shows that you're not supporting the structure of the arm while applying pressure to the bushing. You're lucky you didn't crush or distort that arm. There should be a half-round support sleeve as a "special tool" around the outside of the bushing, to prevent the arm from collapsing as the pressure is applied.

Why did GM convert to press in lower ball joints? Anyone? Was there flex in bolt on design?
First Guess: They saved the cost of four rivets, and the press-in ball joint is simpler and easier (cheaper) to make.
 

Rustbucket79

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The ball joint bolts on. They're EASY to change. I don't know why you'd replace new ball joints with different new ball joints, when you could use the ball joints that came on the arm until they wore-out, and THEN change them easily, years from now.

HOWEVER, your photo shows that you're not supporting the structure of the arm while applying pressure to the bushing. You're lucky you didn't crush or distort that arm. There should be a half-round support sleeve as a "special tool" around the outside of the bushing, to prevent the arm from collapsing as the pressure is applied.
Good point, with the ball joints. I had already bought new ball joints before realizing I was changing the LCA as well. So thats why I thought about changing. But Ill think about it.

Regarding the press. Youre right, the front bushing-holder started to give so I had to back off, seperate the "ears" and place a bolt between them. Wish I had talked to you before. :p Looks alright now so hopefully I didnt damage too much.
 
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