Copper shavings in oil? What’s going on!

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Slade88

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I’m buying another truck next Friday so I can focus on my Chevy, I definitely created these problems and I accept that, it’s damage control time now, this was my first engine build
 

Slade88

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UH! HUH! Full synthetic for cam break in= bad move. Pretty sure break-in methods and what oil to use are clearly outlined in Comp's instruction which you should have read. The goldish-bronze-ish metalflake oil is more than likely overheated steel shavings from the cam and lifters self-destructing. Driving around for a week knowing lash was not set correctly = another bad move.



Have someone pull the pan if you want to but those metalflakes have been run through every single orfice in the engine and your cam and crank bearings. Time for an engine teardown and cleaning.
I used summit zinc break in oil
 

Slade88

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Without a professional diagnosis it could be anywhere from minor nicked bearing to major problems. Questions that come mind. It runs badly why continue driving? Why didn't you catch the coolant leak / overheat before driving?
Everybody has a good idea, maybe. But for just starting out, following the service manual doctrine would keep you on the right track.
It runs great, real smooth. It has no coolant leak or overheat while driving, a little hotter then usual but that’s it
 

Slade88

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If he can pick copper flakes out of the oil with his fingers, an oil analysis is just a waste of money.

I like the idea of the distributor gear... easy check and hopefully the problem.

The lower oil pressure may be an issue unless its idling lower than it was before because of the cam. As long as cruising RPM oil pressure is the same that may just be an idle speed issue.
It’s idling maybe 50 rpm lower, but I have played with the idle
 

Slade88

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Agree on the oil analysis. Irregardless a teardown in necessary. If you can pick the metal shavings up you should be able to find the damage visually.

I can't see Comp using a roller blank to grind a hft profile that calls for a melonized gear but the literature might state it. Maybe there was a problem with his distributor gear already that he missed. Helical cut gears can be funny. In a lot of applications it calls for them to be replaced in sets. That info might not be in FSM but most machinist's handbooks touch on it. Most times you get lucky, sometimes you don't.

From the wrong oil, to the valves too tight, to the overheating, everything about the break -in went wrong. Followed by continued driving. smh

No mention of a valve spring change to accommodate the fast rate cam or a check for coil bind, guide/retainer clearance, etc. All of which had been discussed with him by multiple people in multiple threads.

Not that hard to find a problem that you created.
Comp said my stock springs would be fine
 

Slade88

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Y’all I know I screwed up, this was my first build I appreciate all the advice. Buying a work truck this upcoming Friday so I can really focus on my 350 in my down time. Would you guys suggest just completely re doing the bottom end while in there?
 

RichLo

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Start simple and find the problem first. Then decide if it needs a complete teardown. Chances are you will. At that point you need to start weighing the benefits of just getting a complete crate engine with a warrantee over rebuilding yours.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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This is a flat tappet cam? Did you do the break in procedure?

It's hard to say from behind my desk, but I would guess you wiped a lobe (or lobes) sending metal through your motor and "clearanced" your bearings in the process.
 
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