Adjustable proportioning valve for ABS Delete

Chillin Dylan · May 11, 2021

Frank Enstein said:
After the ABS sent the pedal to the floor on my 94 Suburban in the summer and I rolled through the stop sign at the bottom of the offramp the ABS went missing. I may or may not have put a 1975 Camaro proportioning valve in it on the advice of a major brake manufacturer but I can neither confirm or deny that I recommend the same for you.

But that truck would throw you out on the hood after!

I think the only people that defend the GMT400 ABS system are the ones that haven’t had it do that to them. It’s inferior and downright dangerous at times.

OP, I think what you’re experiencing is completely normal for a disc/drum no ABS truck. I asked a few of my buddies that drive a lot of old school trucks(pre ABS) and they said that’s normal

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Chillin Dylan · May 11, 2021

LoCascio_Inc said:
Are you suggesting that the 3/16 braided line to the 1/4 rear hardline is what is causing the rears to lock up? Seems like that would be restrict flow and if anything, weaken brake pressure to the rear.

I’m positive the radii on the braided line bends are fine. That’s just perspective from the photo.

3/16 vs 1/4 will restrict volume, but increase pressure. However, I don’t think that’s your issue. I honestly don’t think you have an issue. With 500lbs in the bed it probably won’t do it. Truck brakes are designed to perform better while hauling rather than empty

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LoCascio_Inc · May 11, 2021

Just to be clear. My original post was more of a question of curiosity than of concern for needing to fix the brake system.

I’ve put 2000 miles on the system at this point and the truck stops great in all conditions. My ABS module could very likely have been malfunctioning, but this is definitely better than before and much simpler. Simplicity, reliability, and durability are the cornerstones of the whole build, so I’m happy with it. I’d like to convert to hydro boost some day and I’ll probably redo the whole system.

Chillin Dylan · May 12, 2021

LoCascio_Inc said:
Just to be clear. My original post was more of a question of curiosity than of concern for needing to fix the brake system.

I’ve put 2000 miles on the system at this point and the truck stops great in all conditions. My ABS module could very likely have been malfunctioning, but this is definitely better than before and much simpler. Simplicity, reliability, and durability are the cornerstones of the whole build, so I’m happy with it. I’d like to convert to hydro boost some day and I’ll probably redo the whole system.

My 97 parts truck has the hydro boost 9700gvw if you’re interested. If you want simplicity and reliability why would you want hydro boost? I’ve never heard good things about it, and I didn’t care for the way it feels on 2 different trucks

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98c1500onAIR · Sep 15, 2022

LoCascio_Inc said:
The loops are engineered for a reason but it’s not for cooling. It is to accommodate the body of the truck flexing independently from the chassis.

I went with braided lines after failing to properly flair stainless hard lines...

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someone should sell this as a kit, i need what you have right here

Schurkey · Sep 15, 2022

ABS that works CORRECTLY is absolutely transparent in operation, until you need it. You will not be able to tell that there's an ABS system connected under normal conditions.

At the point that you need ABS, it'll vibrate the brake pedal, rattle the firewall, and audibly buzz. But the vehicle should still stop, and steer.

Any other symptoms of ABS indicate that the thing has problems.

Seems to me that lots of folks remove or disable ABS 'cause they can't figure out how to bleed the air out of it. SOMETIMES there's a genuine problem with it; the unit needs service (difficult) or replacement.

Erik the Awful · Sep 16, 2022

When ABS first came out I wasn't a fan because I'm pretty good at threshold braking. I'm a fan now. I've had ABS kick in in a lot of cases where I didn't realize I'd lost traction. On the race track we really value the ABS on our BMW because we can jam on the brakes full-force and it keeps us from flat-spotting the tires. The ABS unit itself is usually what causes bleeding issues, and if you can get the tools to bleed it, there's good no reason to ditch ABS.

makindust2@aol.com · Sep 24, 2022

LoCascio_Inc said:
The loops are engineered for a reason but it’s not for cooling. It is to accommodate the body of the truck flexing independently from the chassis.

I went with braided lines after failing to properly flair stainless hard lines...

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That is the best looking swap I have seen would you share what you used.I really want to do mine like that

HotWheelsBurban · Sep 24, 2022

Schurkey said:
ABS that works CORRECTLY is absolutely transparent in operation, until you need it. You will not be able to tell that there's an ABS system connected under normal conditions.

At the point that you need ABS, it'll vibrate the brake pedal, rattle the firewall, and audibly buzz. But the vehicle should still stop, and steer.

Any other symptoms of ABS indicate that the thing has problems.

Seems to me that lots of folks remove or disable ABS 'cause they can't figure out how to bleed the air out of it. SOMETIMES there's a genuine problem with it; the unit needs service (difficult) or replacement.

This is the same with hydro boost or vacuum booster? The crew cab has done this a few times, when we really had to slam on the brakes. Stopped fine, but I just figured the noise was the truck telling us,"I'll stop that quickly when you need me to, but I don't appreciate you trying to stand me on my nose"....

Supercharged111 · Sep 24, 2022

Schurkey said:
ABS that works CORRECTLY is absolutely transparent in operation, until you need it. You will not be able to tell that there's an ABS system connected under normal conditions.

At the point that you need ABS, it'll vibrate the brake pedal, rattle the firewall, and audibly buzz. But the vehicle should still stop, and steer.

Any other symptoms of ABS indicate that the thing has problems.

Seems to me that lots of folks remove or disable ABS 'cause they can't figure out how to bleed the air out of it. SOMETIMES there's a genuine problem with it; the unit needs service (difficult) or replacement.

That's all well and good, but the early 3 channel stuff is absolute garbage. I hate it, I'd rather go without. Pedal turns to a rock, truck stops stopping, I'm better off on my own. Now the ABS on our 97 Grand Prix GTP (gone but not forgotten), 07 Envoy Denali, 04 Corvette Z06, and pretty much anything newer I won't yank. But there's a special place in Hell for the early ABS systems, RWAL included.

Adjustable proportioning valve for ABS Delete

Chillin Dylan

OBS Enthusiast

Chillin Dylan

OBS Enthusiast

LoCascio_Inc

OBS Enthusiast

Chillin Dylan

OBS Enthusiast

98c1500onAIR

Newbie

Schurkey

Supporting Member

Erik the Awful

Supporting Member

[email protected]

Supporting Member

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!

Supercharged111

Truly Awesome

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