Help finding the correct filter and seal?

BC K1500 said:

That helps a lot.
The 3 1/1 is when clicking on one particular filter it shows that in the product picture; https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6877392&cc=1304952&pt=8600&jsn=12

So to conclude, I'm looking for a 2 7/8 filter.

Thank you!!!

Click to expand...

Um, I see that. Not too clear what that measurement is referencing from...as far as I know there were just two pan depths.

I guess I had never wondered what the much larger aftermarket capacity pans do for filters? Maybe they have a baffle that holds the OEM filter at the right height? Dunno...

Anyhow, maybe watch a video on replacing that little metal sleeve that goes into the valve body if you've never do this job. The first time I replaced that, I was a bit scared/frustrated, and I was replacing it out of the truck with transmission on the bench. Just strike it with a thin flat head and a hammer. Work around it it to crush it and it will come out. I've done it since underneath my trucks, and it's not bad.

BC K1500 said:

Well, the specs of my car are in my sig line. I thought it was quite obvious, but I'm sorry for not including it in the post.

It's for a 1998 GMC K1500 Suburban Vortec 5.7 4WD

If I go to rock auto and select my vehicle, year, etc, all the filters are listed for the 4L60E.
They are listed as short and long, the long ones seem to come in different depth hence the confusion.
There is the link; https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...v8,1304952,transmission-automatic,filter,8600

How am I supposed to chose the correct one?

Click to expand...

You have the 4L60E, it came with the shallow pan 2 1/4” , or the deep pan 2 7/8”. The 4L80E is the 3 1/4” filter.

Yours appears to be the deep pan, and as I mentioned all mid 97 and later K1500’s I’ve seen had the deep pan.

My 97 was built in Nov of 96 and it originally came with the shallow pan.

Sorry, my phone doesn’t show sig lines for some reason.

GM 24208576, WIX 58847, ATP B165, are the ones I use.

4L60E’s and their predecessors are notorious for leaking pan gaskets. A thin coat of Permatex Transmission Oil Pan Sealant, pulled tight on both sides of the gasket, installed and torqued, and let it THOROUGHLY DRY before filling with fluid is the trick. Can substitute black rtv sealant but I think the Permatex stuff is better.

as stated, watch a few video's on seal replacement, mine is a real pita, especially lying underneath with trans fluid dripping on your face, haha.

in CDN, i assume BC, you should check out lordco for parts, most likely have a store in your town, good for when you're not exactly sure what to order, reasonable prices and have good stock.

With all the trans threads I see on here recently, I cant help myself to say it for the umpteenth time.....

The best thing one can do for his auto trans is to keep the fluid BRIGHT RED--not red, not dark red, not brown, not black.

My best guesstimate over the past 50 years I've put 750k on TH350/700r/4L60/4L60E's (they're all basically the same design).

A pan with a drain plug, drain the oil out of the trans pan every other engine oil change or so, will allow a guy's 4L60E to live a long and fruitful life. Really this goes for all auto trans.

I have the CRF Performance deep pans on my 96, 97, and 01 trucks, they're steel, the mating surfaces are straight, and the drain plug doesn't leak. When I pull the plug on those pans every 6k-10k miles, 6+ qts come out. With those pans and external coolers the system holds about 16 qts of ATF.

My 02 G1500 van has 225k on the odometer, I bought it with 125K, been changing the oil religiously since I bought it, and the original 4L60E is still running fine. MY 96 van has 125K on the rebuilt 4L60E and it does NOT have the external trans cooler. Both van's everyday payload is maxed out, plus I have a stack of ladders on top that act like big sails, adding to what the trans has to drive down the road. Both of the vans have the shallow pans.

Clean, fresh fluid--any of the fluids in the vehicle--absorb heat better, and keep particles suspended better.

BC K1500 said:

Well, the specs of my car are in my sig line. I thought it was quite obvious

Click to expand...

Your "sig line" is not always visable to those of us with mobile devices.

Here's my view. Seeing as I personally have four GMT400 trucks, I always state which specific one I need assistance with in each question I post... perhaps you could take this as a suggestion to get more or better future responses

alpinecrick said:

GM 24208576, WIX 58847, ATP B165, are the ones I use.

4L60E’s and their predecessors are notorious for leaking pan gaskets. A thin coat of Permatex Transmission Oil Pan Sealant, pulled tight on both sides of the gasket, installed and torqued, and let it THOROUGHLY DRY before filling with fluid is the trick. Can substitute black rtv sealant but I think the Permatex stuff is better.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the part numbers and the great explanation, it helped a great deal!
I'll make sure I put sealant in addition to gasket. Thanks.

alpinecrick said:

When I pull the plug on those pans every 6k-10k miles, 6+ qts come out. With those pans and external coolers the system holds about 16 qts of ATF.

Clean, fresh fluid--any of the fluids in the vehicle--absorb heat better, and keep particles suspended better.

Click to expand...

While good clean fluid is very important and changing it in that interval keeps your transmission happy, I don't think for most people that interval is realistic. Isn't it a bit to frequent?

Nad_Yvalhosert said:

Your "sig line" is not always visable to those of us with mobile devices.

Click to expand...

I didn't know that, I'll make sure to include it in the future. Thanks.

stutaeng said:

Anyhow, maybe watch a video on replacing that little metal sleeve that goes into the valve body if you've never do this job. The first time I replaced that, I was a bit scared/frustrated, and I was replacing it out of the truck with transmission on the bench. Just strike it with a thin flat head and a hammer. Work around it it to crush it and it will come out. I've done it since underneath my trucks, and it's not bad.

Click to expand...

I've watched a few videos and some people just leave that metal sleeve and put the new filter in. I'm not sure what's the benefit in replacing that part? It just holds the filter in? I'll probably replace it but just leaving the old in doesn't seems to be a big deal?

That sleeve also has a small rubber portion. Probably good to replace it, otherwise a leak may lead to pump sucking up air/fluid mixture.

stutaeng said:

That sleeve also has a small rubber portion. Probably good to replace it, otherwise a leak may lead to pump sucking up air/fluid mixture.

Click to expand...

That makes sense, I was planing to replace it anyways.
THX