Sanity check on parts order.

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JeremyNH

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Not likely a ground issue with the crank sensor. The CKS is a 12V sensor for power but the 12V is only a bias voltage with signal and ground both coming from the PCM. If you're getting zero rpm on crank it doesn't necessarily mean a bad CKS. In fact it probably isn't a bad CKS since they're fairly reliable (or at least the SMP PC123 sensors are reliable, you can get some brands as cheap as $15 but I wouldn't put them on my motor). The PCM sends a pulse to the ICM to fire the coil. It's the ICM pulse that is actually what is integrated by the tach PWM in the gage cluster to give you indication. So could be a bad sensor or a bad ICM or a bad coil (the white wire in the coil harness is the one that goes to the tach gage but it's on the same bus internal to the coil as the blk/wht wire from the ICM which is what fires the coil). From my time on the forum many folks complain of quality issues with replacement ICMs and coils and you mention replacing your coil so that is certainly one suspect part. The easy sure way to check for a bad CKS is to get a scan tool that can display rpm. PCM rpm is direct off the reluctor so if you see rpm there but not on your dash it would mean the problem is somewhere PCM to ICM to coil to gage. I converted to 24x which is where my info comes from so never had to troubleshoot ignition problems. Folks who have may give you better advice.
 

Comp112

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Checking RPM in my reader is gonna be a pain, have to crank the entire time its booting and entering the system. Poor jump pack aint up to the task, have to drag over my other car and the good old jumper cables, hopefully don't overheat the starter...
 

Comp112

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Not likely a ground issue with the crank sensor. The CKS is a 12V sensor for power but the 12V is only a bias voltage with signal and ground both coming from the PCM. If you're getting zero rpm on crank it doesn't necessarily mean a bad CKS. In fact it probably isn't a bad CKS since they're fairly reliable (or at least the SMP PC123 sensors are reliable, you can get some brands as cheap as $15 but I wouldn't put them on my motor). The PCM sends a pulse to the ICM to fire the coil. It's the ICM pulse that is actually what is integrated by the tach PWM in the gage cluster to give you indication. So could be a bad sensor or a bad ICM or a bad coil (the white wire in the coil harness is the one that goes to the tach gage but it's on the same bus internal to the coil as the blk/wht wire from the ICM which is what fires the coil). From my time on the forum many folks complain of quality issues with replacement ICMs and coils and you mention replacing your coil so that is certainly one suspect part. The easy sure way to check for a bad CKS is to get a scan tool that can display rpm. PCM rpm is direct off the reluctor so if you see rpm there but not on your dash it would mean the problem is somewhere PCM to ICM to coil to gage. I converted to 24x which is where my info comes from so never had to troubleshoot ignition problems. Folks who have may give you better advice.
Looks like I am getting an RPM reading on my scanner. I guess now I'll look into the coil and icm.

EDIT: Swapped out to another distributor just in case with no luck. Checked spark again, seems a bit weak, with an orange color. Plugs had fuel on them, was getting backfiring up the intake.

EDIT 2: Noticed when changing from the new to an older distributor to test stuff, that the older distributor is building oil pressure higher/more consistent when cranking. Also seeing the tach has a reading with the old one.
 
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