Timing

Dylan88 said:

It worked timing fixed the noise runs good

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Awesome.
Everything on an engine of any type starts with timing.
Learn how that works and the screw turners and distributor twisters will be calling you to get it done.
Any chucklehead can turn a screw.
A mechanic knows which screw to turn.
And charges for that hard earned knowledge.
The more you learn, and the more times you try and get it wrong.
The better you become.
One day, knuckleheads will bounce off of your back like hail off of a duck.
And then all of a sudden without even trying you end up being that guy who just knows things.
Maybe not the best engine builder.
Maybe not the best car restoration guy.
But you can sure as **** fix your house and mend your fences.
Figure out how that truck works.
Ten years from now they will be rare as hell.
There will be an attempt to ban trucks.
You will need a permit to drive a truck and you have to prove PROVE that you coulndt take that **** on the bus.
So, a 4.5 million dollar contract with 60 percent direct tax dollars and basically 80 percent through fuckery and we have to plant gardens on top of our trailers in order to offset the carbon footprint of the trailers that are parked on city asphalt which does not absorb water and runs right the **** into the bay.
So We have to hual the site trailers off because they arent built for a ******* roof garden and we need to find some ******* to build us a ******* trailer that will support a roof ******* garden.
Nice job on the carbon footprint ye *****.
I believe I have already mentioned the entire steel ******** episode.
Yep, erecting steel is oppresive.
Last week we had a meeting because the carpenters can no longer use the term "stud"
Nobody in the trades gives a flying **** about any of this.
Most of the rotten old racist ******** have been chased out and the rest of them are on the way.
Commercial consrtuction is like a big bunsen burner.
The heat is always boiling.
The job is too keep your people out of the pot.
And to keep yourself and ypur company out of the boiling pot
That is the basis of risk management.
You will never achieve a goal like that if you believe that all of everything begins and ends with you.
It does take a hell of a lot of calm and a hell of a lot of willingness to be prepared to accept the responsibilty when someone you have entrusted to follow through makes a mistake.
That is just how it is.
Sometimes I have to sleep.
I am 57 and exhausted.
I have a beutifull wife and a cat and some old man toys.
I am still working because I can.
Ive already had the conversation with my wife about when I loose my mind and start babbllng just run me a bath amd chuck the toaster in.
The big problem is that Mom owns a whack of land in Eastern Washington and a bunchof land and mineral rights in the Dakotas.
So far, a ten year lawyer *********** just to try and give it away.
Garbage land.

Any tips for new mufflers? I want to fix up the exhaust system, dual exhaust, tons of mufflers options. Where i am there is no emissions tests so do not need the cat.

What's your goal for the truck? The entire exhaust system needs to be planned coherently. For a stock 350, I'd go 2" all the way out with a crossover and some quiet mufflers. If you plan on a hot motor later, I'd go 2.5" and a somewhat open muffler. If you have MotorTrendOnDemand, episode 49 of Engine Masters is a "cheap muffler shootout". I spreadsheeted their power loss versus dB data and selected the Cherry Bomb Salute mufflers for my truck. They're really too loud for the street, but I haven't been pulled over yet. Long trips are painful, though.

Just stock. Wanting nice sounding duals nothing crazy loud.

Cherry Bomb Turbo mufflers would be the "slightly louder than stock" answer. Nice sound reduction, but also kills a bit of top-end power. I may put them on my 1-ton.

If you want a bit more rumble there's the Summit 2-Chamber muffler, but you'll have to step up to 2.25" exhaust. The butt-dyno probably can't tell the difference in power between these and the Turbo mufflers.

The Cherry Bomb Salutes make almost as much power as open headers, but they're also almost as loud.

Do the trucks have stock 2.25 exhaust?

Dylan88 said:

Just stock. Wanting nice sounding duals nothing crazy loud.

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I am assuming your truck is an 88. As mentioned, it all depends on what you want. What are you looking for. Power, performance, or sound. Flow masters, are made to sound good, but, they will not perform as well as a straight through muffler will. Also is money a factor? The original performance muffler, is an old school glass pack. The longer, the more quite it will be. I love mine. I have 2-24 inch thrush glass packs on my 97, 5.7L. True duals out the back. I gutted my cats, and made a set of simulators, but being an 88, that won't be necessary. Are you replacing the exhaust pipe? If so, the yes, go with a larger size. 2-1/2 or 3 inch, your choice. A X pipe will help performance. My system still has all OE exhaust pipe, up to the mufflers. My truck came with 2 pipes into 1 muffler. I ran a bigger size muffler, and bigger size tail pipes. I think the OE pipes for a c1500 are 2-1/4 up to the muffler, and 2-1/2 after the muffler, because the OE setup, only had 1 tail pipe. I went to the junk yard, and got another tail pipe, then cut that up, to make the exhaust go around the spare tire. I did have to buy a little straight pipe from O'Reilly's. Everyone who hears my truck say it sound grate, and want to know what exhaust system I have. Very cheap, and very simple.

Dylan88 said:

Do the trucks have stock 2.25 exhaust?

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That's what my 97 had, up to the muffler. Not sure about pre 96. These are the mufflers I have. There is zero restrictions in this muffler to impeded exhaust flow this is also what all of the old school street hot rods used to run back in the day, before Flow master, Magnaflow, ECT.

Yeah I was thinking true duals with glass packs maybe. It will be all new exhaust pipe

Dylan88 said:

Yeah I was thinking true duals with glass packs maybe. It will be all new exhaust pipe

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Just don't go bigger than 3 inch. Really, if your engine is close to OE, say less than 350 HP, 2-1/2 is big enough, but 3 inch would be max for anything less than 350 HP. Oh, and I have a set of Summit shorty headers. Shorty's are good at low end torque. Anything about about 3000 RPMs, and they don't flow much better than OE exhaust manifolds. Long tube headers, are better at higher RPMs.

The downpipes from the manifolds on both my '89 and '99 were 1-7/8". I did pick up a set of downpipes from a K2500 that I put on the '99 Suburban when I welded up a custom exhaust. They were 1-7/8" at the manifold flange, but immediately flared out to about 2.5". Intuition says that 1-7/8" neck is a restriction, but the exhaust is still moving pretty quick at that point, and the expanding size prevents reversion. Try to avoid decreasing the exhaust size as it moves back.