1999 4x4 2500 Cracked frame at steering box no rust

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Mitchg

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Hi everyone, does anyone know where I can get a plate kit for my 2000 k2500 7.4 4x4? My frame was cracked at the lower bolt of my steering box. I previously snapped a steering box bolt while doing some off light off-roading. I welded up the cracks, don’t mind the ****** welding, I am not a welder and I rented a machine. Anyways, I welded up the three cracks which had formed, after a week a driving and some more off-roading, I have a small new crack. My 265/75r16s probably don’t help with the torque transferring through to my steering box… Anyways, I need a plate kit, I was thinking of going to a junk yard and cutting out this section and welding the plate right on top, but I doubt that it would fit correctly with the dimpled frame. Any good suggestions? Please see my pics…
 

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stutaeng

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I know the square body generation suffers from a similar issue. I think on the snow plow forums I've seen this also happening on the GMT 400s.

Is the crack at the bolt radiating at around the 4 o'clock position? Also, is the weld that's further down look like it opened up?

I don't know enough of what forces are exerted on the frame from the gearbox to offer any guidance.

Were the cracks grooved first? What welder or welding process did you use?

I would suggest a groove on the crack, followed by a 240V weld pass using MIG or flux-cored. Maybe some preheat would help burn off the grease. Maybe a plate washer can be added and welded all around to help reduce the stresses out into the base metal, hammered to conform to the shape and may need a longer bolt...
 

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Mitchg

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I know the square body generation suffers from a similar issue. I think on the snow plow forums I've seen this also happening on the GMT 400s.

Is the crack at the bolt radiating at around the 4 o'clock position? Also, is the weld that's further down look like it opened up?

I don't enough of what forces are exerted on the frame from the gearbox to offer any guidance.

Were the cracks grooved first? What welder or welding process did you use?

I would suggest a groove on the crack, followed by a 240V weld pass using MIG or flux-cored. Maybe some preheat would help burn off the grease. Maybe a plate washer can be added and welded all around to help reduce the stresses out into the base metal, hammered to conform to the shape and may need a longer bolt...
Yes, the crack I’m referring to is at the 4 o’clock position and coming from the bolt head. The swing arm brace appears to be a superficial crack, unless I’m wrong… I ran a small pass near the bottom of that crack, as a precautionary, but I don’t think it’s actually opening up unless I am wrong??
I did not grove the cracks prior to welding, I was short on time. I’m going to grind them down clean and run a pass on the new crack and grove the crack prior to welding. I used a Lincoln 140 weld pack mig welder, flux core. Highest heat setting and number 4 wire speed.
Thanks for the tips, maybe I’ll section out a piece of this frame from the junkyard and try to massage/hammer and fit it in and weld.
 

Hipster

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I used a Lincoln 140 weld pack mig welder, flux core. Highest heat setting and number 4 wire speed.
You need more welder, 3/16 material is just about the upper limit for a 120v unit nevermind trying to do it with flux core crap. You should be using Er70S-6 wire with gas as well. Drill stop the cracks, clean up the metal prior to welding, and the welding will be stronger than the base material.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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You need more welder, 3/16 material is just about the upper limit for a 120v unit nevermind trying to do it with flux core crap. You should be using Er70S-6 wire with gas as well. Drill stop the cracks, clean up the metal prior to welding, and the welding will be stronger than the base material.
^^^This. Get something like this one.
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This should be enough wire for the job with 75/25 gas. :waytogo:
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Sorry, I couldn't help it, carry on :biggrin:
 

Supercharged111

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And lower wire speed too. Those welds are standing up, they need to penetrate. I don't think I've ever taken mine above 2, mine is a Lincoln 180A 220V unit. I'm no expert, but my welds do hold.
 

stutaeng

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There's nothing wrong with the flux-core (FCAW) welding process. It actually puts in more heat into the weld per given amps over the "MIG" (GMAW) process. So a machine with both processes will always give you more penetration for the same settings (MIG vs FCAW.)

I'm into building design and FACW and SMAW is all they use for structural welds. Columns, beams, braces, etc. for buildings. We are talking stuff holding up X amount of floors. High rise buildings, same thing. Been that way since welding really took off back in the 1940s. Mind you, some of the stuff being welded is routinely 1 1/2" trick! I better not see MIG on a jobsite, or I'll be requesting for welder certificates and taking a look if the MIG is a permitted on AWS charts...(only like 1 specific overhead welding position I think allows it.)

...but I understand in the auto repair industry Flux-core is considered "junk." :( Maybe it got a bad rap because folks using that cheap AC Horror Freight flux core welder (FCAW requires a DC power supply!)

Did OP ever chime back in?
 
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