'88 RCLB C3500 "Roscoe P. Coltrane"

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Dravec

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The GMT800 2500 suburban 2wd also have front torsion bar suspension, as well as the 2500HD 2wd. I thought they changed to torsion setup as part of of the increase to the GVWR, at least on the 2500HD (9200# vs 8600#). The 2500 suburban was still 8600#.

Only the Silverado 2500 (Non-HD) 2wd had front coil springs. I'm guessing those were still 8600#? I didn't think to look at the wrecking yard last time I saw one there.

BTW, I think those 1500HD of that generation are monsters compared to the "regular" 1500s. A 1500HD crew cab 6.5' bed is as massive as a equivalent 2500HD. A CC 1500 looks like a kid in comparison. I read an article that said GM used the "1500"HD on those just to get into the crew cab game, since Ford and Dodge were already churning out crew cab 1500s by then. There's no or very little comparison on 1500 vs 1500HD as far as drivetrain goes.

That swap you mention would be cool on an early GMT400!
The reason I thought of that swap, was because I've already wanted to do one up that way. :anitoof::anitoof:
 

454cid

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Thanks for the input, but no matter what it's staying two wheel drive. I don't have any need for four wheel drive. I don't want the weight, complexity, or loss of gas mileage.

It's not being suggested that you convert the truck to 4wd, we're suggesting you use the 4wd frame and front suspension in much the same way that the GMT-800 uses the same torsion bar suspension for 2wd and 4wd.
 

Erik the Awful

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It's not being suggested that you convert the truck to 4wd, we're suggesting you use the 4wd frame and front suspension in much the same way that the GMT-800 uses the same torsion bar suspension for 2wd and 4wd.
Ahh, okay. I'm gonna stick with the current frame and fix it.

you figure out what you are doing to fix the cut out cross memeber?
I'm going to trim the torch cuts into straight lines, cut cardboard templates, and weld in some 3/16" plate. I'll have to finish wiring the shop up first, but I've been looking into wire and gray PVC, so that may finally happen.

I did grab my other drill index and used its 3/8" bit to try and drill out the seatbelt anchor. It's garbooned as well, so I ordered a pack of 3/8" cobalt bits from Amazon. It's a real pain trying to get the bits to chip and retain their edge when you're drilling uphill and the cutting oil just drips away from the tip.

After I gave up on drilling through the anchor, I grabbed the wire wheel and worked more on the floor until the Harbor Freight grinder felt like it was about to catch fire in my hands. The driver's side is far worse than the passenger side for corrosion.

The Chickasha Auto Swap Meet was a pretty successful venture. I got some 1 3/4" primary long tube headers that ought to fit nicely for $60, a Victor Jr with clean bolt holes and silver powdercoating for $80, and some vintage v-belt pulleys for $20. I would have preferred a Super Victor, but I didn't see any for sale, and honestly, a Victor Jr's probably more appropriately sized for the motor I plan on building.
 

Erik the Awful

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The 3/8" cobalt bits off Amazon didn't even touch the seatbelt anchor. Well, what to do? Maybe I need to ask if anybody knows about good hardened drillbits?

Wait a second! Project Farm will know!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgQeSrsAXgE

I ended up ordering a set of Bosch drillbits for $56. In his video the $15 DeWalts were just as effective at drilling through hardened steel, but the Bosches held up better.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q64LTFB

It took all the Bosch had to get through the bolt. Lots of pressure, lots of PB Blaster lubing the bit, and slow going, stopping frequently to cool the bit. Unfortunately the hole isn't big enough to get my M12x1.75 tap through. I tried to chuck up my 13/32" bit, but my corded DeWalt drill only has a 3/8" chuck on it. My two Ryobi battery-powered drills have 1/2" chucks, but all my cheaply-made-but-horribly-expensive Ryobi batteries died.

Ugh.
 

Erik the Awful

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So, it's been a minute since I've posted any updates on Roscoe. In fact, it's been a full month since I've made any progress at all on the truck. I got an early start this morning on yard work, and after lunch I went out into the heat to give some attention to the truck.

I finished wire-wheeling the floor pan and did a final coat of primer. I still need to get some black Rustoleum and finish it up.

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I also finished removing all of the harness that I'm going to remove. The door harnesses strung along the top there are going to stay, but I do need to splice them where I had to cut back the mouse chewings. I also wire wheeled the back window frame to remove what was left of the old, under-quality install job, and in doing so I found a whole lot more corrosion.

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Ugh. I have a lot of work ahead of me.
 

stutaeng

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Nice progress! I'm assuming you are brushing on the Rust-Oleum?

I prefer to brush it on, given the option.
But last week I was repainting a picnic table and had a hard time finding the Rust-Oleum Professional large can aerosol (preferred option.) The 3 local home centers didn't have any black gloss or semigloss only flat...

I had to settle for some Krylon black semigloss. Not sure what's going on. I didn't bother to check for quarts of the same version I was looking for. :rolleyes:
 

stutaeng

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For that large of an area, I would recommend you brush it. A quart is like $15 and will work just fine. 2 coats, no problem. No overspray.

You are going to need a lot of spray bombs!

The DFT (dry film thickness) is going to be more consistent and thicker on the brushed on paint also.

Just a thought.
 
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