Anti-Seize or Nah?

0xDEADBEEF said:

Don't use the copper stuff on stainless.

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And yet it's supplied with new O2 sensors to be install in OE stainless head pipes...

Donald Mitchell said:

I use it on everything.

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Nad_Yvalhosert said:

And yet it's supplied with new O2 sensors to be install in OE stainless head pipes...

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Copper and stainless react in certain conditions. I guess that's not one of those conditions.

The anti-sieze I've found on new o2 sensors didnt look like copper, but silver/gray.

Ruff Idol said:

I found on Redhead Steering Gears' site FAQ that they do not recommend the use of anti-seize as it will interfere with the "perfect" connection between the tapered splines on the pitman arm and sector shaft.

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I can't think of a single application where tapered parts are involved--splined or plain--where anti-seize would be recommended.

Tapered pipe thread "could" be an exception, but pipe-thread sealer would be a better product to use.

The problem is that the anti-seize is a lubricant. You install a tapered shaft into a tapered hole, then torque a fastener. The friction is reduced, the nut gets over-tightened, and the tapers slide too far, stressing and perhaps cracking the tapered hole.

Ruff Idol said:

- Are there any other scenarios where anti-seize is a definite NO (e.g. caliper slide pins)?

- What is the difference in application between the 2 common mixtures sold in stores (copper and aluminum) and is it as big of a deal as some people make it out to be? Does it really matter which one you put on, let's say, drum brake contact points?

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Anti-seize is not a lubricant for parts that have relative motion in-use. It's intended for male and female threads, which--once tightened--spend months/years/decades NOT moving against each other. Then when disassembled, the trapped metal particles act like microscopic ball bearings so the nut can slide against the bolt.

Therefore, you'd never use it on "slide pins" or "brake contact points" because the powdered metal would just be an abrasive.

0xDEADBEEF said:

The conventional wisdom is not to use it on spark plug threads and wheel studs. I still use it on spark plugs, but again, very small amount just to help get them in by feel.

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Champion spark plugs sells anti-seize for use on aircraft spark plugs. How bad can it be for spark plug use?


All the service manuals I've seen specifically say to not use any sort of lube on wheel lug studs. But I think that's more "Lawyer" talk than "Engineer" talk. The lubed threads would require a reduction in fastener torque, rule of thumb in my shop is to reduce torque by 20% over clean-and-dry fasteners.

And God help you if you put anti-seize on a wheel stud and the nuts came lose or the stud broke due to improper fastener tension. Vehicle loses control, someone gets killed, you get sued.

Pinger said:

Spark plugs are the only application I'll use copper anti-seize on. Anywhere else the oil bleeds from the thickener base leaving it dry like a sponge to soak up all the wet from the road.

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Doesn't really matter that the oil/grease base cooks away. It'd do that on, for example, high-temperature exhaust fasteners, too. But the metal particles remain, acting like micro-ball-bearings come time to disassemble.

Pinger said:

Re the pitman arm question, I'd avoid antiseize and preserve the metal to metal contact as instructed by the manufacturer. Once it is fitted and torqued I'd coat the outside of it with water resistant grease to seal out moisture.

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If it's a tapered Pitman shaft, the thing is probably water tight without "sealing" the joint with grease.

The tapered hole in the Pitman arm has been stretched around the taper of the Pitman shaft, much like a steering knuckle tapered hole gets stretched around the tapered ball joint stud when the nut is torqued.

Moparmat2000 said:

If your using a new pitman arm on the new box, just apply a small mount of axle grease to the splines. If using your original arm over, clean the splines on the arm with a small steel wire brush. And still apply a small amount of axle grease.

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Unless instructed by the service manual, never grease/lube a tapered joint. You'll over-stretch the female part when the fastener is torqued.

TreeGeared said:

My suggestion would be to wipe on a thin coating of WD-40 with a rag. It will displace any amount of moisture that may actually get into the splines.

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Then remove the WD-40 residue with solvent--aerosol brake or carb cleaner.

NO lube on tapered fittings. (WD-40 is not a good lube...but any lube is too much.)

454cid said:

The anti-sieze I've found on new o2 sensors didnt look like copper, but silver/gray.

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The O2 sensors I buy include a tiny packet of copper anti-seize. AC-Delco, and Denso, mainly.

Schurkey said:

The O2 sensors I buy include a tiny packet of copper anti-seize. AC-Delco, and Denso, mainly.

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I've only done Bosch..... on my truck because that's what was carried locally years ago, and recently on my Volvo, since that's what Volvo installed originally. Bosch pre-applies a gray anti-seize and covers it with a plastic cap.

The only time I've read about not using anti-seize on plugs is with NGKs. Apparenlty that have a plating/coating that eliminates the need. I think I used it anyway on my Volvo and Buick. The truck has ACdelco plugs. I use it on just about everything except sandwiches.

Thanks for the reminder. Yes, I've seen that. The plastic cap was a reminder.

Schurkey said:

Champion spark plugs sells anti-seize for use on aircraft spark plugs. How bad can it be for spark plug use?

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I don't know. There are some engines that have a reputation for spitting out spark plugs, I definitely wouldn't use it there.

On an aircraft I assume you have to strictly stay to the procedure the OEM says to use.

LoL