Anti-Seize or Nah?

Ruff Idol · May 31, 2022

Curious on people's thoughts here. I found on Redhead Steering Gears' site FAQ that they do not recommend the use of anti-seize as it will interfere with the "perfect" connection between the tapered splines on the pitman arm and sector shaft. My questions are:

- Have you ever had problems with anti-seize on splined connections? If so, what conditions were the part(s) under? Personally I feel like if it weren't for my last pitman arm having the stuff on it, it would have never budged come time to remove it!

- Are there any other scenarios where anti-seize is a definite NO (e.g. caliper slide pins)?

- What is the difference in application between the 2 common mixtures sold in stores (copper and aluminum) and is it as big of a deal as some people make it out to be? Does it really matter which one you put on, let's say, drum brake contact points?

0xDEADBEEF · May 31, 2022

Aluminum-aluminum, you must use it. Dissimilar metals, you must use it. Don't use the copper stuff on stainless.

I think most people just slather it on, which is way too much.

The conventional wisdom is not to use it on spark plug threads and wheel studs. I still use it on spark plugs, but again, very small amount just to help get them in by feel.

tpass · May 31, 2022

like the manufacturer states, the tolerances are so close it isn't needed. I've never pulled a pitman arm that didn't look brand new on the splines.

GoToGuy · May 31, 2022

The labels on these products, explain in simple terms what the best use is. Anti-seize works well for fasteners subjected to high corrosive areas, and high heat. The copper has even a higher heat rating.

HotWheelsBurban · Jun 1, 2022

For caliper pins and sliding surfaces on brakes, as well as the drum brake adjuster star wheels, use high temperature brake grease/lubricant. It looks kinda like butterscotch icing, and is formulated specifically for using on brake systems where there are contact points that are metal to metal.
I also use a little bit of anti seize compound on spark plugs, even in iron heads. Helps them start in the hole a little easier, and they don't get stuck. I also use a little bit on the engine oil pan drain plug ( the other 99 Burb came to us with these threads messed up, and I ended up having to use an oversized plug).

Pinger · Jun 1, 2022

Spark plugs are the only application I'll use copper anti-seize on. Anywhere else the oil bleeds from the thickener base leaving it dry like a sponge to soak up all the wet from the road.

For anything around the wheels I use a good quality food grade (NLGI#2) grease. It is exceptionally water resistant and has enough temperature capability even for brakes. As per post above, there are greases available specifically for brake applications.

Re the pitman arm question, I'd avoid antiseize and preserve the metal to metal contact as instructed by the manufacturer. Once it is fitted and torqued I'd coat the outside of it with water resistant grease to seal out moisture.

Moparmat2000 · Jun 1, 2022

The only time I ever dealt with a stuck pitman arm was a 50 year old vehicle I was restoring. I broke a puller trying to take it off. I ended up having to carefully cut the pitman arm with a cutoff wheel on a 90° die grinder to weaken it, then smack it with a hammer and chisel at the freshly made weak point to crack it and slide it off.

If your using a new pitman arm on the new box, just apply a small mount of axle grease to the splines. If using your original arm over, clean the splines on the arm with a small steel wire brush. And still apply a small amount of axle grease.

Frank Enstein · Jun 1, 2022

I use anti-seize on everything. I like to use cheap rattle can silver paint as anti-seize/loctight on chassis stuff like body bolts. It keeps them from rusting and rattling loose.

But not on a Pitman shaft/arm.

You need them stuck tight. Any play at all (anti-seize will take up a tiny bit of room preventing metal-to-metal contact) will strip the splines at the least wanted moment.

Assemble the pitman arm and paint it after. No looseness and no rust.

TreeGeared · Jun 1, 2022

The viscosity of most anti-seize is so thick that it will just get wiped as the splines slide past each other. I have tried this before. The good thing is there is very little space for moisture to get in as well. My suggestion would be to wipe on a thin coating of WD-40 with a rag. It will displace any amount of moisture that may actually get into the splines.

Donald Mitchell · Jun 1, 2022

I use it on everything.

Anti-Seize or Nah?

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