The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

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FrankieD61

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My tail lights are incandescent. I didn't get to upgrading those yet... It's just one of those weird things. Not really effecting driveability, but SHOULD work correctly.
 
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someotherguy

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Im thinking im gonna disagree with that one. I believe when you turn your hazards on and hit the brakes, BOTH hazards and brakes work.......
Really think about that one for a moment. On a 400, the turn signals burn the bright filament on the dual filament bulb in the middle socket of the taillight. The hazards burn that same filament on the same bulb. The brake lights burn the same filament on the same bulb.

The only two possible outcomes of having the hazards on and pressing the brake - would be either the hazards keep flashing / no brake light action, or hazards stop flashing / brake lights work. A bulb can't flash and be solid simultaneously.

Whichever one of the behaviors is correct, my memory is a little vague, because I haven't driven a 400 creeping up around 7 years now. Pretty sure the hazards stop flashing so you have functioning brake lights when you press the pedal. Go give it a try and let us know.

Richard
 

df2x4

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@someotherguy You're correct. If your hazards are on in one of these trucks and you step on the brakes, the hazards stop flashing. Even in the front. At least that's how both of my '97s have always behaved.
 

Erin

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@someotherguy You're correct. If your hazards are on in one of these trucks and you step on the brakes, the hazards stop flashing. Even in the front. At least that's how both of my '97s have always behaved.
Same for me on my 94. I thought something was wrong with them until I learned they're suppose to do that.
 

Ruff Idol

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Probably answered in this thread already, but... are the rear speakers only supported by the factory amp? I swear I can see the wires are intact in my factory harness - which is plugged into an aftermarket adapter the previous owner put in for his Sony radio. I only have functional front speakers (which were replaced) and a separate amp for just powering the 10" sub.
 

Wh4t3v3rs

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Probably answered in this thread already, but... are the rear speakers only supported by the factory amp? I swear I can see the wires are intact in my factory harness - which is plugged into an aftermarket adapter the previous owner put in for his Sony radio. I only have functional front speakers (which were replaced) and a separate amp for just powering the 10" sub.
Unplug the aftermarket radio and pop the rear speakers with a battery. Any battery will work, I like a 9volt cause both terminals on one end. Brown (+) and yellow (-) and dark blue (+) and light blue (-)...... if the rear speakers pop, then you have a problem with the radio, and no pop means the speakers are blown/not hooked up/not there......
 

Ruff Idol

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Unplug the aftermarket radio and pop the rear speakers with a battery. Any battery will work, I like a 9volt cause both terminals on one end. Brown (+) and yellow (-) and dark blue (+) and light blue (-)...... if the rear speakers pop, then you have a problem with the radio, and no pop means the speakers are blown/not hooked up/not there......
Thanks I will try that. Now that you said it I wonder if I should check continuity between + and - with a MM...
 

Wilecoyote

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Why are the door speakers on my 98 S-10 3 door are dead? the old dash speakers work fine. I assume the oem radio/cassette has **** the bed and I'll need a new audio unit.
 

Ruff Idol

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Why are the door speakers on my 98 S-10 3 door are dead? the old dash speakers work fine. I assume the oem radio/cassette has **** the bed and I'll need a new audio unit.
I suppose the method I was prescribed above could be used to test this theory pretty easily. Jump 9V through the door speaker terminals on the wiring harness and see if they make a noise.
 
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