FrankieD61
The Stooge Called Slappy: Slappy'sAutoService
Same for the booster?
Is the prop valve different for the jb6/7 brakes. What about the fittings off of the lins that go into the prop valve?
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Same for the booster?
If I were to look on Rockauto, what type of master should I look for? Something that includes f44 in the description?
I don't order from Rock Auto, so I can't tell you.Same for the booster?
No idea except the tubes screwed right into the larger master on my '88.Is the prop valve different for the jb6/7 brakes. What about the fittings off of the lins that go into the prop valve?
Yes I am sure GM has a gauge to check the push rod length.Sure?
I was guessing it's the pedal pushrod for various vehicles--GMT400, full-size car, Squarebody, 2-ton truck...whatever that booster design was used on. So I figure, any booster from a GMT400 is likely a good candidate. I wasn't expecting differences with the master cylinder side.
Used to be that Delco masters, and Bendix masters had different recesses in the primary piston. So one took a longer booster-to-master pushrod than the other. But all JB6/7 masters should be the Delco version.
In the end, I'm just guessing.
The pedal in my '97 RCSB still is pretty poor IMO. Pretty significant travel before the brakes engage, soft after engagement and improves with a pump or two. I put little shop rear disc, disc proportioning valve, NBS master cyl, new booster, all new lines & SS hoses, Little shop front set up, ABS complete removal and still the brakes suck. Picked up a '99 Tahoe and guess what - it sucks too.
I dono what the answer is but its not in the content I listed above.
The content you listed is pretty-much everything but the brake pedal. Therefore, the problem IS in the content you listed. Is this a 2WD or 4WD? If 2WD, are the front wheel bearings adjusted properly?The pedal in my '97 RCSB still is pretty poor IMO. Pretty significant travel before the brakes engage, soft after engagement and improves with a pump or two. I put little shop rear disc, disc proportioning valve, NBS master cyl, new booster, all new lines & SS hoses, Little shop front set up, ABS complete removal and still the brakes suck.
I dono what the answer is but its not in the content I listed above.
Probably. Does your vehicle have the JN3 brakes? The larger-bore master cylinder will have less hydraulic advantage on the caliper and wheel-cylinder pistons; but that's somewhat offset with the larger booster. So maybe it comes out "about" even.I think I'm going to replace my master for now. Since it's leaking. Then, later, I will do my upgrades. Since this is my first summer with the truck I want to actually drive it..
Is it okay to upgrade my master and my booster without upgrading my actual brakes (rotors, pads, drums, shoes, etc.)?
Probably. Does your vehicle have the JN3 brakes? The larger-bore master cylinder will have less hydraulic advantage on the caliper and wheel-cylinder pistons; but that's somewhat offset with the larger booster. So maybe it comes out "about" even.
If you've got JN/JB5 or 6 brakes, you've already got the "upgraded" parts.
JN/JB3--those are the little guys.I have JB3 brakes. The master I bought is a JB3 master as well.