Looking to do plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, grease front end, change gear oil, change trans oil
What do you guys recommend? Got part numbers?
The easy answer for plugs, wires, cap 'n' rotor is to buy the top-quality line (OEM or "Gold", not "Silver" or "Advantage") of ACDelco stuff specified for your vehicle. I've been big on Wix or Baldwin filters. Wix can also be had at NAPA, CarQuest, O'Reillys, etc. Baldwin is harder to find.
I have no problem buying NGK plugs instead of ACD. I'd avoid Bosch, Splitfire, E3, or any other "gimmick" plugs. When I quit buying Champion plugs 30+ years ago, they had the most-brittle porcelains in the industry, and soft, fast-wearing electrodes. Since the only recent experience with Champions has been to remove and scrap them in favor of ACD or NGK; I can't say for sure that the Champion plugs are as horrible as they used to be. (But I suspect they are.) "Platinum" plugs can be worthwhile. Not sure I'd spend the money on "Double Platinum" (not needed but not harmful) or Iridium plugs (Expensive. Very long-lasting
if the engine is in top condition and has more-sophisticated fuel injection than TBI or especially carburetor
.)
I got a COUNTERFEIT set of ACDelco Iridium plugs from a dirtbag in Texas, selling through Amazon. Be careful where you buy this stuff. There's a half-dozen brand names of bottom-feeder spark plugs and lots of other products on Amazon that I've never heard of. Beware. Amazon is turning into a third-world hell-hole of junk.
Avoid MSD cap 'n' rotor. Made in China, grossly overpriced. NAPA Echlin, Standard Motor Products, BWD, Niehoff could also be reasonable alternatives to ADC, but don't buy the "discount" line. United Motor Products cap 'n' rotor have been strongly recommended for the '96-newer Vortec 5.7L; they have a vent molded into the cap that the other brands don't. I don't know how the UMP caps for TBIs are made.
The last several sets of plug wires I've installed have been Summit-brand cut-to-fit. Made in USA, comes with a crimper tool. Totally satisfied. Route the plug wires EXACTLY as shown in the service manual including all the looms and holders. Do not just throw 'em on and let them lay "wherever". This is double-critical for #5 and #7 plug wires.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-860825r
Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ 8mm Ignition Wires with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Spark Plug Wire Sets at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com
Front-end lube is similarly easy. Buy a 1-pound tub
and a grease-gun cartridge of
the same brand-name grease. You will be looking for
containers that specify
NLGI #2, LB and GC. #2 is the "thickness" of the grease, #2 is very very common. "LB" signifies the best grade of CHASSIS GREASE, for ball-joints and such. "GC" is the best grade of WHEEL BEARING GREASE.
Learn more about the NLGI and ASTM's system to identify lubricating grease properties and applications.
www.farmoyl.com
Examples:
www.amazon.com/Valvoline-614-12-Multi-Purpose-Grease/dp/B00BZQF3FU/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3E7F38J7IK63X
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and
www.amazon.com/Grease-Pres-High-Temp-14-1/dp/B007IBSQU0/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3E7F38J7IK63X
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Same stuff, different packaging.
MOST quality greases are double-rated, for chassis
and for wheel bearings. There are a hundred brands and kinds of grease that meet the specs I've listed. Everyone has their favorites, and most of the time the "favorite" grease is whatever Dad used to buy, or whatever packaging has the prettiest colors.
Greases can be incompatible with each other. Mix the wrong ones, and they'll turn to shiit. Whatever brand or type of grease you decide on,
use that brand/kind until you sell the truck. Otherwise you'll need to clean out the "old" grease before you squirt in the "new" stuff. If you buy a tub and a cartridge of the same brand/kind of grease, you'll never have problems mixing or substituting one for the other.
Make sure the cartridge fits whatever you have for a grease-gun. Handy tip: The "coupler" on the end of the grease gun is probably a
cheap piece of crap. I fought with mine for years. Then I wised-up, and bought a REAL grease-gun coupler. Not cheap. VERY recommended if you use a grease gun for more than one or two vehicles.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Your front wheel bearings on a C-series need to be cleaned and re-packed occasionally. Put about 1/2--2/3 of your tub of grease into this bearing re-packer. Save the rest in the tub for the inside of the hubs. One tub of grease is way more than you need for one vehicle.
www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2775D-Hand-Bearing-Packer/dp/B0002NYDYE/ref=sr_1_17?crid=31HAJ03MQF5YH
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You can load both wheel bearings from one hub into the packer--big one on the bottom, smaller one on top. PUT A PAPER TOWEL OVER THE PACKER, then set it on the floor. Step on the paper towel, you'll pack both bearings and none of the dirt on your shoe sole will fall into the new grease.
You'll want to replace the grease seals in the brake rotor/hub assembly, and you'll need two cotter pins of the appropriate size. Any parts store should have seals and cotter pins.
You'll probably need a grease-needle to grease your U-joints. Depends on the joints; and some are "sealed" so they don't need to be greased.
www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54216-Grease-Adapter/dp/B000N321UQ/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1UNN0PFBU31QB
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Gear oil is like grease. Everyone has a favorite. Make sure your axle lube is the right viscosity (80W-90, maybe 75W-90) and the right GL-rating (probably GL-5). IF (big IF) you have a Gov-Lock rear axle, be damned sure you're buying the right lube. GM has issued at least one bulletin on gear lube with Gov-Lock, and it's so poorly written that it's ambiguous. The part number listed for "approved" gear lube has been changed at least once, maybe two or three times. When it was me, I looked all over for a proper gear lube that DID NOT have friction modifier in it. Friction modifier (Posi additive) made my Gov-Lock slip so bad it was useless.
I don't know what the NV4500 takes, but it'll be in the service manual. Maybe the owner's manual.
