Lets talk about engine oil pan.

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BC K1500

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1998 GMC K1500 Suburban Vortec 5.7 4WD​


It looks like I've got leakage at several points around the oil pan. It’s not terrible right now but its annoying and for sure it won’t get better whit time. :)
I've done some searching and it seems like the common consensus is that the engine has to be lifted up in order to get the pan off of the 4wd versions.

As I’m looking at it, there seems to be two problems for removing the pan.

1) There are these two rods that connect to the engine and transmission. On the engine side the mounting bolts of those rods cover one of the oil pan bolts on each side.
2) While it looks like the pan can be lowered quite a bit (4"-5"), I doubt there is enough room to completely remove it.

That brings me to my questions;
Has anyone successful replaced the oil pan gasket just by lowering the pan?
How much force are those two rods holding? Would I need to brace up the transmission, the engine, or both if I were to remove them, or at least remove the bolts to get access?

I don’t have the means to lift up the engine so that’s out of question.
I’m just a regular Joe trying to fix what I can on budget.

Please share if you have any experience.

Thanks.
 

Greasemagnet

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If you drop the pan with the diff in place it is possible to work the one piece rubber gasket between the pan and block, you will need to go under the oil pump with the gasket. It is a pain but it is possible. Make sure you use gasket sealer in the corners of the front and rear mains/block areas and consider some gasket sealer under the timing cover also. It is not an ideal solution but sure beats raising the engine.
 

BC K1500

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Drop the diff and the pan comes right out.
I might do that depends on how much work it is. Is it possible to just to remove the bolts and lower it a bit, or is a complete disassembly necessary?

If you drop the pan with the diff in place it is possible to work the one piece rubber gasket between the pan and block, you will need to go under the oil pump with the gasket. It is a pain but it is possible. Make sure you use gasket sealer in the corners of the front and rear mains/block areas and consider some gasket sealer under the timing cover also. It is not an ideal solution but sure beats raising the engine.
Thank you for the tip about the gasket maker. This will be a possible project at the next oil change.


I'm wondering about this rod that goes from engine to the transmission.
there are two of them. The right side is pretty much in the way. could I possibly remove just the right one without having to brace the engine or the transmission?
 

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Dannyw

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1998 GMC K1500 Suburban Vortec 5.7 4WD​


It looks like I've got leakage at several points around the oil pan. It’s not terrible right now but its annoying and for sure it won’t get better whit time. :)
I've done some searching and it seems like the common consensus is that the engine has to be lifted up in order to get the pan off of the 4wd versions.

As I’m looking at it, there seems to be two problems for removing the pan.

1) There are these two rods that connect to the engine and transmission. On the engine side the mounting bolts of those rods cover one of the oil pan bolts on each side.
2) While it looks like the pan can be lowered quite a bit (4"-5"), I doubt there is enough room to completely remove it.

That brings me to my questions;
Has anyone successful replaced the oil pan gasket just by lowering the pan?
How much force are those two rods holding? Would I need to brace up the transmission, the engine, or both if I were to remove them, or at least remove the bolts to get access?

I don’t have the means to lift up the engine so that’s out of question.
I’m just a regular Joe trying to fix what I can on budget.

Please share if you have any experience.

Thanks.
I recommend going with GM pan gasket. I changed mine recently, and couldn't be happier with them.
 

Supercharged111

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I might do that depends on how much work it is. Is it possible to just to remove the bolts and lower it a bit, or is a complete disassembly necessary?


Thank you for the tip about the gasket maker. This will be a possible project at the next oil change.


I'm wondering about this rod that goes from engine to the transmission.
there are two of them. The right side is pretty much in the way. could I possibly remove just the right one without having to brace the engine or the transmission?

I've never tried partially dropping the diff, but it's worth a shot. Pay attention to the vent hose that you don't stretch it and break the plastic nipple that goes into the housing.
 

evilunclegrimace

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I might do that depends on how much work it is. Is it possible to just to remove the bolts and lower it a bit, or is a complete disassembly necessary?


Thank you for the tip about the gasket maker. This will be a possible project at the next oil change.


I'm wondering about this rod that goes from engine to the transmission.
there are two of them. The right side is pretty much in the way. could I possibly remove just the right one without having to brace the engine or the transmission?
You don't have to worry about removing them to change the pan gasket. There a millions of early trucks that don't have the braces. This is a GMT 400 thing
 

Supercharged111

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You don't have to worry about removing them to change the pan gasket. There a millions of early trucks that don't have the braces. This is a GMT 400 thing

Early 4x4 trucks didn't have them? My truck had a 3000 RPM vibration until I added them back in after the 4L80 swap. On the trucks that did get them, it was a 4WD-ism.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Early 4x4 trucks didn't have them? My truck had a 3000 RPM vibration until I added them back in after the 4L80 swap. On the trucks that did get them, it was a 4WD-ism.
What I meant was that earlier style trucks did not have the braces.1986 and older. GMT 400's that were 4x4 all got them, and I think some 2wd also had them from the factory 4.3,s?
 

herkyhawki

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There is no tension on the strut rods from engine to trans when not running /driving. You have to take the top bolt out first, then just loosen the lower nut and spin it out of the way or remove it. I use flex-head racheting wrench to get at the top bolt. It's a bit of a tight spot but do-able.
If you take strut off don't lose it as they are different on 98-99 (maybe 97 too?) than earlier years, so can be hard to find.
 
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