Stock Ubolt Replacement

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Schurkey

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Yes the table looks like a misprint for the 1/2" bolt:cheers:
If "9" is really intended to be "90", and the note at the end of that table says they generally try to achieve 90% of the listed "maximum" torques...GMs spec of 81 is 90% of 90 ft/lbs.

But are the GM bolts 1/2" on the lighter-duty trucks? I kinda think so.
 

Caman96

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These specs came with my 5/8 u-bolts, with different numbers for plated and unplated bolts.
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evilunclegrimace

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If "9" is really intended to be "90", and the note at the end of that table says they generally try to achieve 90% of the listed "maximum" torques...GMs spec of 81 is 90% of 90 ft/lbs.

But are the GM bolts 1/2" on the lighter-duty trucks? I kinda think so.
Give me a couple of minutes, I have 4 trucks outside.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Ok I am Back,
1990 C1500 RCLB 4.3.10 bolt diff. 1/2" U bolts
1990 K1500 RCSB 5.7 10 bolt diff. 1/2"U bolts
1992 K1500 RCLB 5.7 10 bolt diff. 1/2" U bolts
1998 K 1500 Suburban 10 bolt diff. 1/2" U bolts
 

Supercharged111

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I under stand that different bolts have different torque specs . You stated that you "torqued your bolt to the 100's on a guess and they came loose" that is a perfect example of why you use an actual torque wrench and then retorque certain fasteners after a specified time/mileage.

That's the first time I've ever had a u bolt back out. The gun I used would have sufficed for the 1500, but it wasn't enough to to get that 9/16" bolt tight. I could feel how much was left to get the 9/16" down when I tightened it by hand with the breaker bar. I didn't have the luxury of a torque spec at the time, but I'm telling you 120# was not enough for those bolts. They need some serious ass, at least mine did.
 

Caman96

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That's the first time I've ever had a u bolt back out. The gun I used would have sufficed for the 1500, but it wasn't enough to to get that 9/16" bolt tight. I could feel how much was left to get the 9/16" down when I tightened it by hand with the breaker bar. I didn't have the luxury of a torque spec at the time, but I'm telling you 120# was not enough for those bolts. They need some serious ass, at least mine did.
I hear ya. Getting my 5/8 to 177 lbs. kicked my a s s!
 

Schurkey

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These U-bolts are not like properly-made Grade 8 (or even Grade 5) bolts, hard and stiff with rolled threads.

They're semi-crappy mild steel, with cut threads instead of rolled threads. They require retorquing because they distort and lose tension.

I've got a hypothesis, that Nad can max-out his impact wrench on them (900 ft/lbs) and yet not actually achieve 900 ft/lbs because the thread friction becomes so great that the shank of the U-bolt acts like a torsion bar, absorbing the impacts without increasing the torque.

So, again--when it's me, I add anti-seize and then knock 20% off the specified torque. Less intestinal blow-out that way.
 

Caman96

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These U-bolts are not like properly-made Grade 8 (or even Grade 5) bolts, hard and stiff with rolled threads.

They're semi-crappy mild steel, with cut threads instead of rolled threads. They require retorquing because they distort and lose tension.

I've got a hypothesis, that Nad can max-out his impact wrench on them (900 ft/lbs) and yet not actually achieve 900 ft/lbs because the thread friction becomes so great that the shank of the U-bolt acts like a torsion bar, absorbing the impacts without increasing the torque.

So, again--when it's me, I add anti-seize and then knock 20% off the specified torque. Less intestinal blow-out that way.
Mine were sold as 5/8 Grade 8. Are you saying they really aren’t? Not doubting you, just a legitimate question.
 
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