DIY ECM tuning… worth the hassle?

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NorthState

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Thanks, 0xDEADBEEF. I bought the engine from a family friend and the air cleaner cover was already on it. It’s from a company called R2C. Beware, though. It is some sort of plastic or acrylic, and as such, is beginning to spiderweb crack. I can just imagine that thing crumbling over time due to heat and age; and sucking a chunk down the throat. Makes me nervous! I may change it to a metal one and just do without the cool clear one.
 
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NorthState

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PlayingwithTBI, you’re right! Actually, the VIN is a 1997 Chevy Silverado. I like the GMC grille and emblems so I changed them. So here is the long story:
A real good family friend who has a ‘78 Nova and sought out a buildable 5.7 block core from another friend who also runs a garage in town. Anyway he built the engine from the ground up for the car. Wanting more power, he built a nasty 6.0LS for the Nova. He put the built 350 into the truck which came with a high miles, questionable 5.7 Vortec in it at best. I ended up with the truck and motor as built from this family friend. He built it with the Fitech 30003 TBI and R4 AC. The Fitech computer runs the injection, obviously. To keep with the thread topic, I’m not running some of the 5.7 sensors like MAF, MAP, and I’m sure others. I know it receives a temperature reading along with IAC, and some other sensors to the handheld. The stock ECU runs the tranny, Speedo, 4WD, brake system, etc. I need to document what is on the stock computer and what runs on the Fitech harness.

Anyway, for what it’s worth, attached is a spreadsheet with the work done to the motor prior to me in blue, what I have done in green, cam specs in black. The paint/ paint supplies number in red, is not accurate and will increase as I do the body work.
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Skyler

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Afternoon, all! Just a quick question.

I am running a 5.7 block +.030” with aluminum heads from summit, Howard’s cam, etc and FiTech 30003 efi system.

I bought the engine off a good friend of mine with less than 1k on the clock. He swapped it out for a 6.0ls out of a 2500.

With the efi, I am using the factory harness/PCM for everything but the engine. Since I am not using some factory components. I’m not sure which ones were deleted yet. I would guess sensors like MAF, MAP, all but one O2 sensor, etc would have been left off. Question is, can those CEL codes be deleted off the factory PCM? I would think so. Can it be done DIY? If not, is it worth the time/money to take it somewhere and have them tuned out?
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NorthState

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I have to ask - a 97? The accessories look like an arrangement from a TBI engine with the R4 A/C compressor and alternator positioning.
Hey @PlayingWithTBI, I was getting my thoughts together about getting the AC pump going, and I remembered you recognizing the R4 pump. Are you familiar with how different/similar the wiring is with the R4 vice the Sanden? I would think a hot that goes thru the ECM to the dash and maybe a ground? What I’m getting at is, I wonder if I can pigtail an R4 plug to the harness in place of the factory sanden one. Thoughts?
 
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