OK, looked at the pictures.
Looks like some leakage around the input shaft.
Some is splatter visible around this side, but it's not a shower of oil. Might it just be "legacy oil spray" from when someone attached / removed the A/C hose from the high-pressure fitting? That would be my guess (which is why, when I'm working on AC, I usually clean-up with a shot of Brakleen around the fittings and nearby, to remove the oil splatter).
All-in-all, doesn't look like a mess (to me). Looks like a slow leak, IMHO. A big, fast leak would have left a bigger mess. That's good... it means it didn't spray a lot of oil about, which would make it more difficult to restore the correct oil charge in the system because you wouldn't have any idea how much was lost. With a slow leak, you don't loose much oil so, during the fix, you can add (say) 1Oz to make up for the oil loss due to leakage and call it good.
The R4s were notable for leakage around the input shaft and the case where it meets the back of the compressor (there's an O-ring there). You can re-seal it yourself if you're ambitious; there's parts available and instructions on YouTube.
If you pull the orifice tube and find the screen clean, and the oil clear (except for dye), you're in great shape. Fix the compressor, new drier, restore the oil balance, vacuum it down overnight...
Looks like some leakage around the input shaft.
Some is splatter visible around this side, but it's not a shower of oil. Might it just be "legacy oil spray" from when someone attached / removed the A/C hose from the high-pressure fitting? That would be my guess (which is why, when I'm working on AC, I usually clean-up with a shot of Brakleen around the fittings and nearby, to remove the oil splatter).
All-in-all, doesn't look like a mess (to me). Looks like a slow leak, IMHO. A big, fast leak would have left a bigger mess. That's good... it means it didn't spray a lot of oil about, which would make it more difficult to restore the correct oil charge in the system because you wouldn't have any idea how much was lost. With a slow leak, you don't loose much oil so, during the fix, you can add (say) 1Oz to make up for the oil loss due to leakage and call it good.
The R4s were notable for leakage around the input shaft and the case where it meets the back of the compressor (there's an O-ring there). You can re-seal it yourself if you're ambitious; there's parts available and instructions on YouTube.
If you pull the orifice tube and find the screen clean, and the oil clear (except for dye), you're in great shape. Fix the compressor, new drier, restore the oil balance, vacuum it down overnight...
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