The Official Vortec 454 Info thread

yevgenievich · Apr 3, 2022

Spareparts said:
Hi.
Need to remove my oil pan and change my oil pump to a HV style pump to hopefully get by till i collect the parts for a engine refresh. Pretty sure my engine was abused with few oil changes judging by the old oil filter and black oil i changed when i first got it (139k miles now 141k) Oil pressure is at 62 psi cold but drops to 8 psi hot and i can hear a ever so slight rod knock when hot idling.
I'm not sure if bearings are worn out or oil pump is shot maybe both.
My thinking it if i change the pump and OP jumps up a lot then probably had a bad pump. I have read a few threads where oil pumps in gen VI BBC have been a problem but who knows for sure.
If it is only slightly better after the new pump then i better start ordering parts and figuring out how to remove the engine.
Guess the question is.
What is the best way to remove the oil pan? Laying under it, it looks like it's about a 5/6-hour job to R&R?

If taking the pan off for oil pump change, go ahead and check the bearings. Can replace them if needed to get more life to the engine. But first, is that oil pressure reading verified with mechanical guage? 5psi is the low limit of hot oil pressure for bbc.

BNielsen · Apr 3, 2022

Spareparts said:
Hi.
Need to remove my oil pan and change my oil pump to a HV style pump to hopefully get by till i collect the parts for a engine refresh. Pretty sure my engine was abused with few oil changes judging by the old oil filter and black oil i changed when i first got it (139k miles now 141k) Oil pressure is at 62 psi cold but drops to 8 psi hot and i can hear a ever so slight rod knock when hot idling.
I'm not sure if bearings are worn out or oil pump is shot maybe both.
My thinking it if i change the pump and OP jumps up a lot then probably had a bad pump. I have read a few threads where oil pumps in gen VI BBC have been a problem but who knows for sure.
If it is only slightly better after the new pump then i better start ordering parts and figuring out how to remove the engine.
Guess the question is.
What is the best way to remove the oil pan? Laying under it, it looks like it's about a 5/6-hour job to R&R?

You'll either have to pull the motor, drop the front diff to remove the just oil pan. Never pulled it on my truck, but I think @Supercharged111 has done it to both of his trucks?
Honestly if it were me and my engine was making a faint knock at hot oil pressure, I'd bite the bullet and tear the motor down instead of just replacing the oil pump.

Supercharged111 · Apr 3, 2022

BNielsen said:
You'll either have to pull the motor, drop the front diff to remove the just oil pan. Never pulled it on my truck, but I think @Supercharged111 has done it to both of his trucks?
Honestly if it were me and my engine was making a faint knock at hot oil pressure, I'd bite the bullet and tear the motor down instead of just replacing the oil pump.

Dropped diffs on both trucks in sig to remove oil pan.

454cid · Apr 3, 2022

Spareparts said:
Oil pressure is at 62 psi cold but drops to 8 psi hot and i can hear a ever so slight rod knock when hot idling.

That's a big spread on oil pressure. I'd suspect it's the sending unit. I think getting a mechanical gauge on there , like yevgenievichsuggested should be a first step before doing all the work of a pump.

Schurkey · Apr 3, 2022

Spareparts said:
Oil pressure is at 62 psi cold but drops to 8 psi hot

My '97 K2500 7.4L similarly has low hot oil pressure. Not as low as yours, though.

Spareparts said:
What is the best way to remove the oil pan? Laying under it, it looks like it's about a 5/6-hour job to R&R?

If this were me, and it sort-of is--I'd test pressure with a known-good mechanical gauge. Depending on what I found, I'd pull the engine rather than doing the entire job working on my back like a pros_titute. (Another word needs to be un-censored!)

That also gives me the option to replace all the semi-rotted core plugs/block heater, slap in a new rear main seal, perhaps a new damper/front cover seal/timing chain, and play with the intake manifold and distributor with the engine conveniently on an engine stand rather than me draped over the fenders. The danger is that with the front cover off, I might be tempted to change camshafts.

There's also easy access to the torque converter and converter seal, if either appeals to you/me.

I know better than to think I can get good replacement engine mounts, though.

Spareparts · Apr 3, 2022

It was tested with a mechanical gauge.
I'll take the diff out. Does not look that hard to me but never done it before so i could be wrong. Then it looks like the pan is wide open?
This is my only ride and i need it for getting around.
I need it to run a few more months as i order parts. In about 2 months when i have it all ill take a vacation from work and pull the engine and re ring it, New cam bearings, New STD crank and bearings, New STD rings. Done it all before more than once when younger so one more time on this engine ain't gonna be nothing new.
Sad part is, it runs perfect! does not use a drop of oil, plenty of power and starts with just a touch of the key hot or cold.

Supercharged111 · Apr 3, 2022

The diff on my dually fought the steering linkage coming out, but other than that it was a very straightforward removal. I think I pulled the center link forward with a ratchet strap to get it out.

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From here yes, the oil pan is wide open.

RichLo · Apr 3, 2022

Are you already running heavy oil in it? 10/40 or 20/50?

454cid · Apr 3, 2022

Spareparts said:
Sad part is, it runs perfect! does not use a drop of oil...

Really? Mine has used oil since new.... well since I bought it with 6000 miles, anyway.

yevgenievich · Apr 3, 2022

I unbolted steering box and idler arm to make diff come out easier on a 3500. It ended up taking almost two hours at a pull a part to get that diff out.

The Official Vortec 454 Info thread

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