doors rattle when hitting bumps in road.

$ 2-400??

Strikers at the stealer near me are ~ $8 each... buy new ones. Latches are more expensive, and the aftermarket ones are hit and miss. They are the same for the front and rear doors.

Search out a yard you can pull your own parts, rear doors on suburbans have the same latches, and don't usually see the same abuse as a truck... crew cabs are usually toast. ( contractors )

Hopefully this thread isn't too old to revive.. I have a rattling drivers door, and there does seem to be a little play in the pins.
What's the best source for a pin kit, and what tools do I need? I see this mentioned all the time in the 'what did you do today" thread, but don't really see a good write-up/how-to (maybe I missed it)..

mackguy said:

Hopefully this thread isn't too old to revive.. I have a rattling drivers door, and there does seem to be a little play in the pins.
What's the best source for a pin kit, and what tools do I need? I see this mentioned all the time in the 'what did you do today" thread, but don't really see a good write-up/how-to (maybe I missed it)..

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Get the pins and bushings from the dealer. The Dorman aftermarket ones aren't very good. I've mentioned numerous times about watching for wear at the non-bushed hole that retains the small end of the pin; this can wear and still allow sagging & play even after pin and bushing replacement. Other than replacing hinges entirely (pain in the ass and $$$) about the only repair is to grind a small area clean on pin and hinge and tack a small weld in there after pushing the slack forward by gently jacking up the bottom rear of the door. As others said also look for and expect wear in the striker bolt and the latch itself.

Forever ago I did a write-up with pics on the straight-up bushing replacement job, it's over on Chevytalk in the FAQ post of the 88-98 truck section. Not a difficult job and doesn't take too many tools other than it REALLY helps to spend a few bucks on the detent spring compressor tool. Trust me on that.

michael hurd said:

$ 2-400??

Strikers at the stealer near me are ~ $8 each... buy new ones. Latches are more expensive, and the aftermarket ones are hit and miss. They are the same for the front and rear doors.

Search out a yard you can pull your own parts, rear doors on suburbans have the same latches, and don't usually see the same abuse as a truck... crew cabs are usually toast. ( contractors )

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I've followed that same line of thought on the latch from the rear doors of crews/Suburbans but unfortunately it just ain't so. They saved a few pennies on those rear latches by not including the pieces you need to hook up the outside lock. You can install and use the latches, sure, but you won't be locking/unlocking from outside with the key.

Richard

doors on the burb rattle like mad going over poor roads, decided to wrap electrical tape around the strikers on the 4 doors and around the tailgate, put several layers, enough that the door becomes noticeably harder to close, then bathed the striker, locking mechanism and hinges generously with motor oil and it made a big difference, much quieter now, so much so that i can now hear other noises that were once overpowered by the door rattle : /

wezmykat said:

decided to wrap electrical tape around the strikers on the 4 doors and around the tailgate, put several layers, enough that the door becomes noticeably harder to close, then bathed the striker, locking mechanism and hinges generously with motor oil and it made a big difference, much quieter

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That's not a long-term solution, and when that electrical tape starts tearing off into your lock, it's going to be a pain to fix. Please take the time to fix it right, or it's going to bite you in the rump.

Door seals may need to be replaced
My door s on 93 suburban rattled like crazy on bumps. Checked hinges, striker , latch mech - all ok.
There is no adjustment on the “in/out” when in closed position and noticed there was a little play.
Replaced door seals and rattle fixed, no play. Door seals provide the pressure out on the latch. Mine looked fine but had collapsed some over the years.

Sabinoerc said:

Door seals may need to be replaced
My door s on 93 suburban rattled like crazy on bumps. Checked hinges, striker , latch mech - all ok.
There is no adjustment on the “in/out” when in closed position and noticed there was a little play.
Replaced door seals and rattle fixed, no play. Door seals provide the pressure out on the latch. Mine looked fine but had collapsed some over the years.

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This is the route I am going to go first. I thought the same thing and wondered if it it would fix the issue. Where did you get the seals?

BBslider001 said:

This is the route I am going to go first. I thought the same thing and wondered if it it would fix the issue. Where did you get the seals?

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It’s been a long time and I don’t remember. Check LMC truck

Good reminder. I need to replace my seals right now right now. They've worn thru in places at the bottom and now gravel constantly collects inside the good hollow part of the seal... it is not easy to get back out even with a vacuum and even then it's back within days. It contributes mightily to the door's permanent in at the top, and out at the bottom. Very timely... thank you for reviving this thread.

Keeper said:

Good reminder. I need to replace my seals right now right now. They've worn thru in places at the bottom and now gravel constantly collects inside the good hollow part of the seal... it is not easy to get back out even with a vacuum and even then it's back within days. It contributes mightily to the door's permanent in at the top, and out at the bottom. Very timely... thank you for reviving this thread.

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The can be found on eBay or LMC truck