Bought a CC Dually 454 Whipple

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stutaeng

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You are right. I can't remember what it looks like now, LOL. The second photo on post #759 is on the back side of the leaf spring, looking up.

I can't tell where the split is going from those photos...
 

stutaeng

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It's 32F outside... I'm too much of wimp for cold temperatures!

I can't tell which is the hose that you see on the photo looking up. Maybe the larger rubber hose goes down to the main saddle tank? I need to go down there with an inspection mirror.
 

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Supercharged111

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Looks like the filler neck splits to both tanks?

I ordered what I needed to give to the tank builder today. I ordered a filler neck.

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And a 0-90 ohm sender.

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Next I went to fueltankparts.com and ordered up some flanged weld in bungs.

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Then I went to glowshift's site and ordered fuel level, trans temp, oil temp gauges, and an a pillar pod for $200 shipped. Autometer was $175+ each and Banks wanted $96 for their triple pod! Ridiculous. The glowshift gauges are like knockoff defi gauges, you can't see them when they're off.

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Next I need to spruce up the drawings for the tank design and make a cardboard mockup to finalize dimensions and fuel neck placement.
 
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Supercharged111

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Well I've gotten nowhere lately on the cells. I keep going back and forth on what to do as I've long wanted to stuff one or 2 under the truck as well, but every time I think I get an idea I find a reason it won't work. I did however give my no engine braking in 2nd gear a search. Since that's the only gear that does it, it must be the front (intermediate) band not applying. That's not necessarily a death sentence for the trans, as when I purged it I thought the return line wasn't flowing worth a crap at idle. It's also long had this thing where when you release the brake pedal at a stop sign and give it gas, it doesn't move for a split second then bumps and takes off. At first I was thinking it was sticking in 2nd then downshifting, but after living with it longer and characterizing its other quirks, I believe I have a line pressure issue. That could be the cause of the band not engaging and could also be the cause of the lockup issues I've lived with all these years. I just tweaked my MAF table and re-enabled DFCO to get more engine braking in the rest of the gears. I also build a pid file with a bunch of transmission stuff, so we'll see what I find there. Next thing will be somehow narrowing it down to epc solenoid, pump, or torque converter. Or could be a beat up separator plate too.
 

letitsnow

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I thought that I read somewhere that making a 4l80e engine brake was one of the few things that will kill them?

That was one of the reasons the allison is an upgrade.
 

Supercharged111

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I thought that I read somewhere that making a 4l80e engine brake was one of the few things that will kill them?

That was one of the reasons the allison is an upgrade.

Not sure, it'll do it in 1st and 3rd. 1st uses the rear band, 2nd uses the intermediate, 3rd seems to rely on just the overrun clutches, and 4th I'm not sure. Long term I'll likely end up caving and rework a tune from my 1500 to flash onto here as it leaves the converter locked when you lift off the throttle. I've been using engine braking on my 1500 ever since I swapped its trans. Stock they'll do it too, but the dually just returns to idle once you manually downshift to 2nd. I'll need to drop the pin to see about inspecting the servo for the band, but not before I get a bit more info from some logs.
 

stutaeng

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I'm not aware on the engine braking causing any issues on the 4L80e. At least all the teardown videos I've seen on YT haven't shown anything. The 95 4L80e that I rebuilt had a band that looked pristine. They did change the band to a wider band in '97? The earlier bands are the same as the TH400 IIRC. I think it's like 1" vs 1 1/4". I bought the wider band for my rebuild, but the ATSG manual mentioned you also need to change the pin on the servo and they gave a model number. They mention that if you change to a wider band and not change the pin (later pin is longer), you won't get engine braking. I couldn't find the pin, so I re-used the band.
 

Supercharged111

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You want to make sure whatever surface the band rides on is true before putting that wider band on as well. I believe I found the cause of my lockup issues, and I feel like an idiot. I'd looked over the lockup tables before, but this time I noticed a significant divergence between the 1500 and dually around 55 mph which is where it's the worst. I also captured a log where it took 5 throttle lifts to get it to lock. Seat if the pants said it should lock, but TP and VSS determined that was a lie. I guess I just don't realize how deep my foot is in it with this truck all loaded down. So I stole the mid and high end lockup scheme from the 1500, tweaked the bottom end, blended the 2, and now I need a test drive to see if it's what I wanted. If not, I have a big transmission pid list saved to once again objectively determine why not. The list has tstate conditions which have a yes/no to not locked because of downshift, tp change, slippage, etc. All that was good to go, and when it did command a lockup it always happened quickly so at least that much seems to not be a mechanical issue. I will need to get an external gauge to compare actual line pressure to commanded.
 
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