The Official Vortec 454 Info thread

Supercharged111 said:

If the scanner in question isn't 1000 years old and has bidirectional controls you should be good. What exactly is the scanner in question?

Click to expand...

I believe he uses the SnapOn Solaris scan tool.

Mangonesailor said:

Currently .050" with ACdelco 41-902 . Have any recommendations?

Click to expand...

Get a good coil, good ignition module, and run 'em until they're nubs. Inspect the porcelains regularly. It would probably be a good idea to regap the plugs every oil change, but I wouldn't bother trying to file the electrode top back to square. I wish I had a picture of the plugs from my RX-7, the electrodes looked like bullet tips. That MSD 6A would also run all the way down to 8v - I discovered that when my alternator died on the way home from work at 1 am.

I am getting into fun stuff on my cylinder heads, so I started a new thread, rather than clog up this one:

For anyone interested these poly locks fit under Vortec valve covers and anything up to 1/4" longer/taller should fit fine. If you have swapped to studs for adjustable rocker arms of course

smokymtn65 said:

For anyone interested these poly locks fit under Vortec valve covers and anything up to 1/4" longer/taller should fit fine. If you have swapped to studs for adjustable rocker arms of course

Click to expand...

So. you've now done this?

Yes, did it last weekend

For anyone who's having trouble getting valve covers to fit, later Vortec covers have a narrower PCV baffle than the TBI covers.

WillB said:

Wondering if I can get some help on this issue I've contiunally had since I bought this truck. When it gets warm, I will have a weird idle issue and occasionally die. So far we've replaced the IAC, EGR valve, upper plenum gaskets, plugs and wires. My mechanic thinks it may be ECM related. It's hard to explain how it acts but I'll try to the best I can. When in gear and at a stop sign for example it will idle down to 200 or 300RPM and try to die. Truck will idle back up and idle fine if I take the truck and put it in neutral. It is more promenant in reverse, almost has the feeling of taking off in a manual. Makes pushing snow a pain in the ass.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Click to expand...

Scrounging around looking for evap system knowledge and ran across this post from last summer. The OP hasn't been around in a while, but in case someone else is chasing the same gremlin, I also chased that same "low rpm when hot" issue around for a long time. My culprit ended up being the front Coolant Temp Sensor, right under the tstat. Sure wish I had discovered it earlier than I did. 99 454

fwiw

Keeper said:

Scrounging around looking for evap system knowledge and ran across this post from last summer. The OP hasn't been around in a while, but in case someone else is chasing the same gremlin, I also chased that same "low rpm when hot" issue around for a long time. My culprit ended up being the front Coolant Temp Sensor, right under the tstat. Sure wish I had discovered it earlier than I did. 99 454

fwiw

Click to expand...

Glad you found the fix. For what it's worth, I had a very similar issue that ended up being a vacuum leak at the EGR.

Hi.
Need to remove my oil pan and change my oil pump to a HV style pump to hopefully get by till i collect the parts for a engine refresh. Pretty sure my engine was abused with few oil changes judging by the old oil filter and black oil i changed when i first got it (139k miles now 141k) Oil pressure is at 62 psi cold but drops to 8 psi hot and i can hear a ever so slight rod knock when hot idling.
I'm not sure if bearings are worn out or oil pump is shot maybe both.
My thinking it if i change the pump and OP jumps up a lot then probably had a bad pump. I have read a few threads where oil pumps in gen VI BBC have been a problem but who knows for sure.
If it is only slightly better after the new pump then i better start ordering parts and figuring out how to remove the engine.
Guess the question is.
What is the best way to remove the oil pan? Laying under it, it looks like it's about a 5/6-hour job to R&R?