Termite's 95 K2500 Suburban

Hey all. After lurking about for quite some time and finally getting back in an OBS I figure I should start a thread and contribute when/where I can. I now have a 1995 K2500 Suburban with the 7.4L and 4L80. A bit higher mileage with 243k on what I believe is original engine/trans but solid so far.

To date, I've done the following.
- flushed cooling system and replaced hose assembly running down to the frame from the T-fitting. Now has functional rear heat and A/C
- replaced blower motor resistor
- cleaned up a salvage yard rear bumper to replace the rotted out original
- new drivers outside handle
- reinstalled the righthand seat in the second row

Planned in near future and parts have been ordered.
- idle speed control actuator solenoid valve to bring warm idle back down to where it should be.
- new control arm bushings
- new ball joints
- new tie rod ends (inner & outer)
- smaller tires (currently has 305/70R16 on a set of Eagle Alloys) so I can back off the torsion bars from fully cranked and soften up the ride plus get it off the bump stops

Longer term plans include
- new door pin bushings (eyeing a set from www.cunninghammachine.com/product/chevrolet-truck-heavy-duty-door-bushings/ )
- new right rear quarter panel welded in to replace a rust hole
- replace weather stripping on hatch and tailgate

At this point, no photos of it that can be added but will take a few and add later this weekend.

- Termite

Not the best photo but thats the suburban I'm working with. Picked up new front end parts and idle control actuator this evening.

Swapped out the idle control actuator to no success. May have snapped a vacuum line in the process and only managed a quick repair with slipping a vacuum line over the split section. Will have to see about a better patch in better daylight this weekend.

Ended up swapping vacuum lines on the idle control actuator (CRB 219227) to reverse of original and it operates as it should now. Idle is much a better speed after warm up.

Today's agenda includes cleaning and adjusting rear brakes as I'm not replacing front end components until I have smaller tires on hand.

Eyeing some 265/75/16s. Most likely cooper discoverer at3 or general grabber a/t. Both are outside of current budget so will be working up towards them.

If it were me, I'd go stock size and leave the big tires off. 245s are plenty. Glad the IAC worked. I need to put one on mine. I have the code 36 CEL and the idle sits at 800 when warm. Not ideal.

I ran 265/75/16s on my old 99 k1500 and loved them. No crank on bars or rubbing issues. If not for snow and using it off road, I'd throw some stock straight treads on it and leave it be.

As for adjusting rear brakes, that turned into replacing them after finding passenger side parking brake strut loose inside the drum. Had a nice groove worn away and primary shoe had some broken friction material.


While the tires and wheels are off and wife is home on maternity leave, I'm cleaning up and polishing the long neglected wheels. Not the best picture or polish job but about all I'm into commiting to doing when it was 28 degrees inside my shed and snow in the driveway. (Only a portion had been done here.)

Managed to get the rear drums all cleaned up and functional over the weekend with the new shoes and hardware. "Discovered" a leaking driver's side wheel cylinder yesterday morning when starting on the shoes, certainly didn't cause it start leaking when putting the new shoes on...... Got lucky and the nearby napa had one in stock, plus a healthy dose of dust on the box for free.


Took advantage of having family here this morning and had a nephew assist with bleeding the brakes. Need to order new cables for parking brakes at some point as well.

After brakes were bled and family left, my 5 year old helped me change the rear shocks and clean up the two wheels that were off. They got a scrub with bar keeps friend and then some white diamond polish as I've seen others use on here (i think it was kennythewelder) using a buffing wheel in a die grinder and cordless drill. Far from perfect results but cleaner than they were.

Want to try to figure outwit these two things run to and if they are necessary to keep.The chip unit(?) is mounted next to the trailer brake controller and doesn't appear to be wired into it although I haven't chased the wires thoroughly. It is however wired to the black box in the image next to it. Any ideas?

Nice job.Did a brake job on mine not too long ago, and did the same, along with new seals, since they were leaking bad. Lifting those brake drum is a pretty good work out too.

Looking good love that drive train combo

Stumpy said:

Nice job.Did a brake job on mine not too long ago, and did the same, along with new seals, since they were leaking bad. Lifting those brake drum is a pretty good work out too.

Click to expand...

First vehicle I've had with the big drums but not my first time working on them. Certainly a work out handling them if you aren't paying attention.

Guess I should put up a proper picture of the suburban as well (taken while rear wheels were still drying and before polish).

Looking at that pic of your wheels reminds me mine are in dire need of a polishing again.Time to get the Mothers out.