What language is that???,,,,HA, HA
can i replace front bearings without hub 97 chevy c1500?
- Thread starter bode winham
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
HotWheelsBurban
Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
16th century formal English.... I'd love to hear Shakespeare done in a south Louisiana accent! Probably pretty interesting sounding in Scots too!
Ma, you got to fallow you heart, and don't lie to utters, sha.
Last edited:
We'll never know. I'm the only person in Scotland that has heard of Shakespeare and that might only be because I had an English grandmother. Burns is the Bard up here and his night was last night though the hangovers will be today.
“Oh would some power the giftie gie us, To see ourselves as others see us.”
― Robert Burns
I've done a metric crapload of bearings in my days. Back in the early '90s I was taught to tighten the nut down until it made the hub stiff to turn, then back it off "two flats" (two flat faces of the nut). I can tell you that's garbage and you'll have a floppy wheel that will wobble in and out of alignment. Instead, tighten the nut down until the hub gets stiff, back it off until you can get a cotter pin through, and then back it off one more flat. Check to see if you have any play at all in the hub. You might have to mock up the wheel and tire. If you can feel play, go ahead and tighten it one more flat. The hub should not turn stiffly. If it does, loosen it back one flat. The play will be slight enough that you won't notice it.
Ancient BALL bearing wheel hubs need preload. This is 1950s crap, I've seen exactly two vehicles with these wheel bearings in my life, one was a home-made trailer made from a pickup-truck front axle and no springs.
Modern TAPERED ROLLER bearing hubs need free play. They don't need a lot of it, but preload will kill them.
Spin the wheel as you tighten the castle nut BY HAND as tight as a thumb and one finger can get it. Back off not more than one flat, less if you can get the cotter pin in place.
Those adjustment pieces that have a regular nut, and a stamped castellation, can go together more than one way, use the way that requires the least amount of backing-off of the nut.
Or follow the service-manual procedure.
Modern TAPERED ROLLER bearing hubs need free play. They don't need a lot of it, but preload will kill them.
Spin the wheel as you tighten the castle nut BY HAND as tight as a thumb and one finger can get it. Back off not more than one flat, less if you can get the cotter pin in place.
Those adjustment pieces that have a regular nut, and a stamped castellation, can go together more than one way, use the way that requires the least amount of backing-off of the nut.
Or follow the service-manual procedure.
@Schurkey, what you said jibes with the GMT400 service manual procedure, no problem there. Honestly, prior to this I had always believed it "correct" to have a little preload on the (tapered) hub bearings... not much, but some, instead of free play.
I'm not sure if the process has changed or not; my first "front end bearing job" was around 1978 on my 1974 Grand Am, with the Chilton's manual as my reference.
Regardless,...
I'm curious why, in the context of, e.g., rear differential pinion bearings (tapered rollers, yes?), there's always a target preload (in-lbs) but evidently not so with the hubs where the focus seems to be free play? Thoughts?
Readily-flowing, "liquid" gear lubricant vs. "stiff" wheel bearing grease?
Having "free play" in my Mustang's front hubs gave me 1/8" looseness in the toe adjustment. Tightening to the next flat gave me pre-load. Between toe change and pre-load, I went with pre-load.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
Me too. Slightly loose at the hub = a lotta loose at the tire tread.
Like any piece of machinery. Something wobbling is gonna cause something else to weeble. More stress on parts than what they were designed for. That's when things wear-out prematurely. Or break.
Running a slight bit of pre-load just means a bit more maintenance. Part of checking under the truck during oil changes.
Re-pack 'em every 3 or 4 changes. Just because of that little extra snugness.
It's usually the outers that go way before the inners. The cheaper of the two!
Similar threads
Staff online
-
kennythewelderOfficially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.
Members online
- kennythewelder
- someotherguy
- Raknapa
- Minn95Dually
- Wildcat465
- vancecamp
- WAM62
- scott2093
- fancyTBI
- Jmt400
- caliburito
- jjester6000
- JPVortex
- Mrsqueelerz
- Chastro
- sonoman98
- 99xcss4
- GrimsterGMC
- david97z71
- Sean Buick 76
- SNCTMPL
- locotechnelson
- 1998_K1500_Sub
- Laxplayer7
- 97HDK2500
- Road Trip
- boy&hisdogs
- Hipster
- 618 Syndicate
- mrodc10
- Chase33
- Carlaisle
- GMCGerbil247
- JScott23
- Wh4t3v3rs
- 1990 305
- smh98k1500
- Idaho83815
- Carmela_obs
- Anchor
- unknwnzz
- sikk84
- johnny_162
- RhettR7707
- Juan94rcsb
- rhammond
- Gordy_
- BuckyJunior
- Caman96
- studigggs