I used FEL-PRO MS98000T, which is appropriate for the 5.7L L31. That kit's got upper, lower, valve cover and some other relevant gaskets.
If the high-pitched whine appears when you first turn on the key, remains for perhaps 5s, and then goes away (engine off the whole time), it's likely the fuel pump IMHO.
OK thanks! If it is the issue i will look into this style gasket set. Heard with the pump, got a new delphi here i need to install. def dropping the tank on this one.
Are you running Dexcool? That looks red to me.
Do you run the engine at long intervals, when you run it? Usually coolant in the oil will make a "milkshake", but if the engine is run hard, it can boil the water off, concentrating the coolant and it turns the oil sludgy and redish.
It is dexcool, i got the extended life wally world brand. Truck has been ran so little in my possession, just a few short intervals. I havent noticed any milkyness in oil, but previous owner did just change it and i just ran a cleaner and changed it myself. Will keep an eye on it.
I had external leaks (and losing coolant) but it was chemicals from the anti-freeze/corrosion inhibitor identified by oil analysis that confirmed that my inlet manifold gaskets were shot (99 5.7l). I was also losing oil internally. Replaced gaskets and both fluid levels rock solid now.
Ad hoc test for water in oil - a drop placed on a very hot hot plate (or exhaust manifold?) If it crackles and spits there's water there.
Good info, i will likely try this too.
Get a set of felpro like 98-k1500-sub said-they are redesigned so it should do the trick and not go wrong again. If you wanna check for gasket failure squeeze your coolant hoses-one of tell signs is they become impossible to squeeze as the fumes get in the cooling system.
Another thing to do is to use the fluid thingy you attach to the radiator cap and it changes color when detects I think co2 in coolant-any decent garage should have one.
As to a water from tailpipe mine is doing the same which got me worried in the first place but it's nothing to worry about-it goes away after short drive tho sometimes it lasted longer-hence I checked if it wasn't headgasket. And it wasn't.
Awesome thanks, i will try squeezing the hoses!
I think horror fright has what your talking about:
Amazing deals on this Combustion Leak Detector at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Also, Oriellys carries them.
Appreciate this info! I just ordered a
Lisle Combustion Leak Detector
There are great videos on you tube showing the procedure and I think they mention torque-one us long with a guy sitting in the engine bay working on it. Try to find it.
Yes I seen that same one, that's a good one! Made me realize i need a better plan for gasket surface preperation.
A major component of exhaust gas is water vapor. When travelling through a cold exhaust system, it condenses into visible "steam" which is often mis-identified as "white smoke". As the exhaust system warms up, the water vapor coming out of the tailpipe is invisible, but may condense a few feet from the vehicle into a white cloud.
Does the PCV work? You should have mild vacuum at the oil fill cap, not visible vapor coming out.
HOW do you know the truck is not getting up to temperature? Relying on the dash gauge may not be wise. Dash gauges are often inaccurate.
How old is the thermostat? Is it the CORRECT thermostat? Is the thermostat the correct temperature rating?
An engine that won't fully warm up will have condensation inside, which leads to corrosion of valve covers, oil caps, etc. Any problem with the PCV system is made ten times worse.
Man, I'm praying it's just steam! Yes I put in a new PCV valve when I got it, old one looked original.
Yes I am just going by temp indicated on dash, i should break out infrared thermometer (i think thats what its called) i have.
Thermostat is brand new and correct. Old 198 thermostat I found plunger so weak it was very easy to depress, new 190 much harder to depress.
