Lower control arms

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454cid

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They are forged. They have the small round arm on the opposite side.

Did you post a picture of someone else's truck? That picture is of a stamped arm. Small round arm?

And no I just replaced the rough country uca with a new set of RC uca.

Ok, I missed that you replaced the uppers with new ones from RC.

Wouldn't I also need to find a Un modded diff, bc the instructions look like you cut the mount off.

That's the front axle I talked about, checking on a used one.

I'm gunna try and back off the torsion on that side. If that's all it is I'm pooping on both shops welcome Mats.

I'd do both.
 

Hipster

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Yes, lower it an 1-1.5" or so. That should tip the top of the tire back out. I think on the rc kits your dealing with diff drop brackets and it's fins on the diff case that need ground off/clearanced to drop the diff not the mounts for the install.

Find an alignment guy/shop that is willing to put all the measurements such as SAI and Included Angle in addition to caster, camber , and toe. The SAI and Included Angle numbers can shed some light on if you're dealing with a bent steering knuckle on that side and it's hard to rule that out without those numbers present. If you walk in somewhere and ask for the alignment special and that's it, that's what they are going to do.

In all honesty, everyone that installs these 2-3' control arm/crank kits ends up having camber issues. A couple of members not long ago were discussing a class action suit. Maybe there is some magical ride height number (2-3" that the description dictates) that can get it to work out but nobody can seem to get there.
 
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xAFNYx

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xAFNYx

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You were right actually. I have no idea why I thought my lca were forged. I must've had the nugget in my head from a few months back when I was learning the difference.

That's what my torsion adjustment looks like. And it's the same on both sides.

Damnit. I was really hoping I'd just climb under and be like "OH WELL LOOK AT THAT! That bolts shorter than the other!"
 

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xAFNYx

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Yes, lower it an 1-1.5" or so. That should tip the top of the tire back out. I think on the rc kits your dealing with diff drop brackets and it's fins on the diff case that need ground off/clearanced to drop the diff not the mounts for the install.

Find an alignment guy/shop that is willing to put all the measurements such as SAI and Included Angle in addition to caster, camber , and toe. The SAI and Included Angle numbers can shed some light on if you're dealing with a bent steering knuckle on that side and it's hard to rule that out without those numbers present. If you walk in somewhere and ask for the alignment special and that's it, that's what they are going to do.

In all honesty, everyone that installs these 2-3' control arm/crank kits ends up having camber issues. A couple of members not long ago were discussing a class action suit. Maybe there is some magical ride height number (2-3" that the description dictates) that can get it to work out but nobody can seem to get there.
Is it a normal occurrence to have have torsion bolts differant lengths?
 

454cid

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Is it a normal occurrence to have have torsion bolts differant lengths?

The T-bars may not be the exact same, expecaily since they're now many years old. To get an even ride height, you'll have differernet pre-loads, and hence the bolts screwed in different amounts. I've got one side screwed down a lot more than the other on my truck, to try to get the ride height the same.
 

xAFNYx

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The T-bars may not be the exact same, expecaily since they're now many years old. To get an even ride height, you'll have differernet pre-loads, and hence the bolts screwed in different amounts. I've got one side screwed down a lot more than the other on my truck, to try to get the ride height the same.
It doesnt even look like i can go much lower on the drivers side. It looks like the Bolt is almost all the way out lol
 
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