Replacing timing chain cover on 1998 chevy 305

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Nice98chevy

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I've been all over the internet trying to figure out if I need to drop the oil pan, or not, in order to install the timing chain cover. I'm getting a Doorman one piece plastic cover. FWIW, I recently replaced the oil pan gasket with a Fel-Pro gasket. What say you?
 
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HotWheelsBurban

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On my 99 C1500 5.7 Burb ( the other one, not the current one) I had to drop the pan. I think @Pinger had to on his C2500 Burb also. The bigger issue was having to pull the motor mount bolts and jack the engine up a little ( couple of inches). There's a windage tray in the pan and a baffle on the center main bearing cap that want to get together if you don't raise it. This is part of what made a "weekend job" take almost a month.
Not looking forward to this on the current Burb, cause I'm sure I'll have to go through all this again.
 

Nice98chevy

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I appreciate the response. Thank You.

I believe I can lower the pan enough (about 1/2" in the front - at most) and leave the rear bolts torqued without worrying about any internal issues. I don't want to replace the pan gasket again. What's confusing is I've read of people installing a new cover without lowering the oil pan.

Tell me if I'm wrong. ???
 

Pinger

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I began lowering the pan on my 1999 350 as per instructions in Haynes IIRC. Pretty sure it has to be lowered at the front for the timing cover to be fitted.
I ended up removing the pan completely as the gasket at the front corners broke. No need to raise the engine on a 2WD C - there's room enough for the pan to be removed and refitted though if I was doing it again I'd remove the oil filter mount/assembly as that gets in the way. Even with it in place it is possible.

Might be worth trying to remove the cover with the pan still in place. If it comes off then the new one should go on. If not, then the pan has to be lowered. Lowering the front should be enough (but at least slacken the rearmost bolts). I removed mine due to the gasket breaking but as I'd suffered a crankcase explosion I didn't object to complete removal as it was an opportunity to check for damage given I was that far in...
 

HotWheelsBurban

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On my Burb, I tried to get the pan out without raising the engine. No go, that's why I had to lift it. The baffle and windage tray I reference in my earlier post were getting hooked on each other; literally needed a half inch room...that wasn't there till the motor went up a bit. But this was on a 175,000 miles 5.7 that hadn't been maintained well by previous owners. The pan and cooler mount were leaking, so we replaced gaskets and O rings on them. And of course I put everything back together exactly like the GM manual says to, correct torque specs and tightening order...and it still leaked from somewhere under there. More a seepage, but still annoying, after spending all my off days for a month under the truck!
The job had started out as an oil and filter change and replace the belt tensioner. Fired it up after that's done...and orange pee under the truck! No, really, you need a water pump now? And Dad says, let's do the timing job while we're here. And that's when we found out about the plastic timing cover. In 2007, only source we had was the Chevy store, $58 and tax. Now, the aftermarket has them.
But to answer your question,a little more succinctly ( sorry, I get wound up talking about trucks!), try to get to old one off / new one on without dropping the pan first. Then IF it goes in okay, then you know you shouldn't have to mess with dropping the pan. Hope this helps.....
 

Pinger

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If I get the chance today I'll have a look at the timing cover I removed. I think the pan overlaps a part of the cover that prevents it being pulled squarely off over the crank's snout.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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If I get the chance today I'll have a look at the timing cover I removed. I think the pan overlaps a part of the cover that prevents it being pulled squarely off over the crank's snout.
Every SBC engine I've worked on, since my 1st 283, had the oil pan overlap the timing chain cover. You need to drop the pan a little, to mount the cover. IDK about the newer engines like the Vortec, ha ha.
 

Schurkey

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WHY do you need to replace the timing cover? If it's a leak at the seal...pull the crank pulleys, pull the damper, replace the seal? You'd probably want a repair sleeve for the damper if the seal has worn a groove into the damper. That, or a new damper depending on the condition of the rubber between the hub and inertia ring.

If you're insisting on pulling the timing cover, yeah, you'd better inspect the water pump and timing set while you're in there.
 
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