Towing with 33” tires versus 35” tires

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Supercharged111

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Hmm u want my log files there bud? ****** won't even run if you don't tune it for one. I started by having to turn a gen 3 motor into a gen 4 motor, how many reluctor wheels you changed ? Yeah by hand no jig , I've been tuning on this truck for about week and a half, getting close to what I'm after. Here, here is last log file and tune file
One I've only been back up here for the last 10 years, 27 we're in Florida so I'm not a YOOPER and do things right . I'm a certified mechanic and do this professionally for a living, I've got more invested in my tools than most have invested in Thier vehicle. I'd slow down on judging someone before u know something about em, just bc u don't THINK something someone built makes what they say,open your eyes and do the research, I spent alot of time and effort to put the right combination of parts to make the motor be what it is.

So next time make it easier by saying you tuned the thing. . . but I stand by my statement of 500hp worth of hardware. You don't have zero accessories, an electric water pump, 120 degree Dyno water, or any of the other miracles that Holdener does so don't claim the high end of what's possible without backing it the F up. I don't care where you came from, there are tons of people who come from out of state and wow the locals with this sort of thing because let's be honest, they're clueless and they eat it up. Again, I bet it's a beast, and I guarantee it wipes the floor with everything else on the road up there, but I'd put money on the fact that your never-to-be-confirmed 550hp claim is more than optimistic.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Yup, you need gears.
My '95 2500 had 3.73 and 245 tires from OE. And it's slow! Once it went up 5" in the air with 315's it became downright pitiful.
That's why the rear axle is getting 4.88's as I type...
That'll wake 'er up, compensate for lost torque, overcome the extra weight of the tires and the service body.
 

df2x4

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If I were to disable abuse mode and reduce TM by 80% as you recommended, what kind of accelerated wear am I going to see?

If you have a 4L60E, I'd leave this stuff alone. Granted I went overboard and had Black Bear disable it all entirely at first, but I didn't run it that way for very long and ended up killing two 4L60Es. One of which was a pretty high dollar build, and was only driven with no torque management for about 500 miles.

Hptuner won't work for you as I think only goes back to 2000.

The '98+ black box PCMs in these trucks are supported by HPTuners, '97 and prior are not. I think JET DST/TunerCAT is pretty much the only option for '96-'97.
 
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Ehall8702

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10.5:1 6.0. . . you're starting with an LS2 (400hp stock) and a bigger cam (easy 40hp), headers/exhaust (easy 30hp), TBSS intake (maybe 10-15ish?), and no tune?! C'mon man, you're not fooling anyone. I called you out because that's what they do in the U.P. Bolt on a bunch of crap, don't tune it, and make baseless claims. You have a solid 500hp worth of hardware, but no way in hell is that truck making 550.

So next time make it easier by saying you tuned the thing. . . but I stand by my statement of 500hp worth of hardware. You don't have zero accessories, an electric water pump, 120 degree Dyno water, or any of the other miracles that Holdener does so don't claim the high end of what's possible without backing it the F up. I don't care where you came from, there are tons of people who come from out of state and wow the locals with this sort of thing because let's be honest, they're clueless and they eat it up. Again, I bet it's a beast, and I guarantee it wipes the floor with everything else on the road up there, but I'd put money on the fact that your never-to-be-confirmed 550hp claim is more than optimistic.
Agree with ya there, going by same based numbers from dame motor setups, wouldn't cry over 50hp anyways. I'm sure not a world class tuner so tune is lacking I'm sure. And again I'm talking crank HP not wheels, after driveline drag I'm probably closer to 450ish, again loose numbers doing calculations from an unconfirmed number from other dynoed similar setups. I don't wanna take away from regular post still, just was saying what was capable with torque management, yeah mine shifts like a cadillac with it on, but it's saving the poor Lil trans life till I can get the funds up for a lvl 4 60e.
 

BNielsen

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Agree with ya there, going by same based numbers from dame motor setups, wouldn't cry over 50hp anyways. I'm sure not a world class tuner so tune is lacking I'm sure. And again I'm talking crank HP not wheels, after driveline drag I'm probably closer to 450ish, again loose numbers doing calculations from an unconfirmed number from other dynoed similar setups. I don't wanna take away from regular post still, just was saying what was capable with torque management, yeah mine shifts like a cadillac with it on, but it's saving the poor Lil trans life till I can get the funds up for a lvl 4 60e.
60E? I wouldn't even bother with a stage x 4L60E, I'd jump straight to a 4L80E
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Maintaining thread topic; I have a 96 K2500 with 3.73 on 285s. It's gutless off the line and takes me a good half mile or so to get up to speed pulling 8000 or 9500#.
Now I've got a fuel pressure issue so that doesn't help; but the gearing is killing it regardless. I also have an 0411, love it to death and I'm sure I could tune to make up the difference but gears and tuning would be that much better.
 

stutaeng

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Yeah, I was going to say...

I don't know much about torque management, but I'm pretty sure it's purpose is to protect your transmission. With that being tuned out and running large tires, I'd take it easy towing. You never mentioned how much you are towing, unless I missed it. Hopefully no more than 2,000-3,000 lbs.

Regear to 4.10s or 4.56s and tow in 3rd would be my suggestion.

Good luck.
 

Jesse_Wenting

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Good lord this thread popped off in the past 14 hours lol
One of which was a pretty high dollar build, and was only driven with no torque management for about 500 miles.
Yeah this is what I'm worried about. If I can achieve the same results by building the project 350 a little more than I had planned I'd certainly rather go that route. Short headers, grinding the valves, and the MPFI update were the main things I planned to do beyond the standard vatt, flux, hone and other cleaning. Goal is 350 at the crank.

A 4l80e swap is definitely on the table, I'm just having a hard time finding one up in my area for a decent price. I'm at the point where I might just get a 2500 parts truck. Would love a 14 bolt too so. If I can find one before I build the 350 I might go for a little more power with it
 

kylenautique

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Yeah, I was going to say...

I don't know much about torque management, but I'm pretty sure it's purpose is to protect your transmission. With that being tuned out and running large tires, I'd take it easy towing. You never mentioned how much you are towing, unless I missed it. Hopefully no more than 2,000-3,000 lbs.

Regear to 4.10s or 4.56s and tow in 3rd would be my suggestion.

Good luck.
I pull a 2001 super air nautique, probably with gear and everything…5000 lbs. I also haul stuff all the time. I have a cabin I’m restoring so depending on the job my bed is full of crap, or firewood. Honestly it’s amazing how well these trucks do once you tune them a little bit. I’m not breaking any land speed records but I’m not desperately in need of more power.
 

Ehall8702

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60E? I wouldn't even bother with a stage x 4L60E, I'd jump straight to a 4L80E
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Maintaining thread topic; I have a 96 K2500 with 3.73 on 285s. It's gutless off the line and takes me a good half mile or so to get up to speed pulling 8000 or 9500#.
Now I've got a fuel pressure issue so that doesn't help; but the gearing is killing it regardless. I also have an 0411, love it to death and I'm sure I could tune to make up the difference but gears and tuning would be that much better.
Nah stick with 4l60e, when built can handle plenty of power. 4l80e has significantly more drag, then I'm changing tcase and drive shafts. I don't beat on the truck often, not drag racing not heavy iffroadig or even huge towing . Just a fun dd. 4l80e are over rated,got a buddy with a STOCK 3/4 ton that just eats em, he's on his 3rd "built" one. More cost effective to just put a better 4l60e in in my opinion. The lvl 4 4l60e I'm looking at is rated for 800hp with a 3 yr warranty...can swap em in less than 5hrs lol
 

thegawd

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I have a stage 3 HD 4L60E built by a mom n pop race shop that's been in the business for over 60 years.... and it shifts just as well as the day it was built about 8 years ago. this is in my Burb and it's a family truck that does occasionally haul stuff but is never hot rodded. so yeah I totally agree Ehaul. but were our voted! LOL

actually I called that shop and enquired about them doing the 4L80E swap. he said sure BUT what is the trucks primary goal... I'm like while I dont ever want to blow another transmission as I had blown 2 in this truck.... he said while we can build it to handle anything, what do you got under the hood? I'm like 300 000 Miles on an all original engine... LMAO!

Yeah the stage 3 is unnecessary for my uses but I wanted a transmission that will truly last forever.

so they do a fluid anylsis and find coolant in the transmission fluid! there was only 12000miles since I installed the used tranny and the fluid was brand new! soooo they ultimately found what was killing the transmissions.... the damn internal tranny cooler in the rad!

you couldn't see it with the naked eye so I was so thankful they found that, and pi$$ed right off.

anyways I do agree that the 4L60E is a great transmission and will last forever if it's maintained, and not abused or hot rodded.

My Sierra's transmission is still original, she guna blow one day as I hot rod this sucker every chance I get! LMAO when it does blow I'm guna take just the transmission to that shop and have them build me another stage 3HD but for a RWD truck instead.
 
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