valve lash adjustment

I just kinda skipped through the video, but it looked like he showed the two roll method. So rather than pausing the video and looking at what he wrote down on the paper, here's a picture of the sequence. Adjust the first batch of valves at TDC, then roll the engine over 360° so that the cam timing is 180° from TDC and adjust the second batch of valves.


Yes, it's wrote down on a piece of wood. It's way easier to keep track of and the wind won't blow it around in the garage.

I've always done 1/2 turn myself.

sewlow said:

I like to set hydraulic lifters on a warm running engine. An old valve cover with a slot cut the length of the top just a bit wider than the socket will keep the oil in the engine, instead of all over the e/bay, the fenders, you, the ground, the JYD.

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Yeah, years ago you could buy little clips that go on the rocker arms to deflect the oil downwards towards the head. I was too cheap to buy them. One time when I built my 283 with a high pressure/volume oil pump, it was spraying close to 20' all over, LOL.

AK 99 said:

I just kinda skipped through the video, but it looked like he showed the two roll method.

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IIRC my Summit Racing heads came with the same procedure. Everyone has their "preferred" method - as long as it works

AK 99 said:

I just kinda skipped through the video, but it looked like he showed the two roll method. So rather than pausing the video and looking at what he wrote down on the paper, here's a picture of the sequence. Adjust the first batch of valves at TDC, then roll the engine over 180° and adjust the second batch of valves.

You must be registered for see images attach

Yes, it's wrote down on a piece of wood. It's way easier to keep track of and the wind won't blow it around in the garage.

I've always done 1/2 turn myself.

Click to expand...

It's 360. #1 at TDC and #6 at TDC IIRC. I always have to look it up or Google it then write it on a sticky note.

Crank in ANY position, does not have to be TDC on #1 or #6.

Loosen all the rocker adjustments so that they all have some free-play, then tighten all adjustments just to the point of "zero lash".

Rotate crank in normal direction of rotation >>>exactly 360 degrees<<<.

SOME (half, or fewer) rocker arms will now be loose. Tighten ONLY the loose ones to "zero lash".

Tighten all rockers "your choice" of preload--1/4 turn, 1 full turn, whatever rocks your world.

Put the valve covers back on, and reinstall whatever accessories you needed to remove--A/C compressor, alternator brace, plug-wire looms, air cleaner, etc.

Have a beer. You're done.

The two points of potential trouble: 1. Not knowing what "zero lash" feels like, or how to achieve it reliably; and 2. Picking a proper preload for your lifters. I've held in my hand GM lifters that had more than a quarter-inch of plunger travel; and aftermarket lifters with only a few thousandths of plunger travel--and they weren't labeled as restricted-travel lifters. Point being, if you can't do those two things with this procedure...you can't do those two things with any other procedure. You CANNOT adjust lifter preload using ANY given procedure, without being able to do those two things.

I have always turned them 3/4 turn. Never had a problem. One 350 i built in 1990 made it almost a half million miles before I sold it still running great! I never re-adjusted them, and they never made any noise.

Supercharged111 said:

It's 360. #1 at TDC and #6 at TDC IIRC. I always have to look it up or Google it then write it on a sticky note.

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Correct. I definitely worded it wrong. It's the camshaft that will rotate 180°. I edited my post with the misleading info.

AK 99 said:

I just kinda skipped through the video, but it looked like he showed the two roll method. So rather than pausing the video and looking at what he wrote down on the paper, here's a picture of the sequence. Adjust the first batch of valves at TDC, then roll the engine over 360° so that the cam timing is 180° from TDC and adjust the second batch of valves.

You must be registered for see images attach

Yes, it's wrote down on a piece of wood. It's way easier to keep track of and the wind won't blow it around in the garage.

I've always done 1/2 turn myself.

Click to expand...

but which valve is exhaust and which valve is intake? if you don't remove the manifolds.

I use the 1/2 turn after it stops tapping method too, spring tension can vary with age, cam lobes can wear, lifter pressure can vary. rocker arms can wear where the pushrod seats.. if you let them clack then tighten till they stop, they are telling u where they need to be individually. you cant go wrong with the stop the clack then 1/4 to 1/2 turn method.

eran tomer said:

but which valve is exhaust and which valve is intake? if you don't remove the manifolds.

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The valve covers are off. You're looking at the valves/valve springs, and you're looking at the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Which valves line up with the intake runners? Those are the intake valves.
Which valves line up with the exhaust runners? Those are the exhaust valves.

But if you do it my way, listed in Post 15, IT DOESN'T MATTER which valves are intakes and which are exhausts. You don't need to keep track, and you don't need a piece of wood with writing on it. There is no more-simple way to do it.