Look how they massacred my boy...Now what to do about it?

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RevRun

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Looking for input from you fine folks if you're willing to make it through this block of background info:

Front end on my 98' k1500 burb felt odd a couple weeks after I had an alignment done by one of the local chains. It seemed loose in a straight line and somewhat unpredictable around corners requiring steering corrections to keep a smooth arc.

Pulled the tires to have a look and noticed marks on the UCA mounts that appeared as if the bolts and eccentric washers had been shifting around. Got a wrench on one and with scary little effort the nut backed off....try another...same thing. Proceed to pull all bolts, washers and nuts off and see this:
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All the inner adjustment slots (closest to the shock mounts) appear to be wallowed out vertically while the outer ones (front and rear most) appeared fine. My first thought was the loose bolts had worn into the slots but the bolts had no signs of damage and the outboard slots were fine. Looking closer I see that these appear to have been intentionally cut into with either a burr, file, or grinding stone as there are clear divots and grind marks. I also see that knock out tabs are not fully removed on the deformed slots. They are partially ground back but not to the half shear witness mark.

This confuses the heck out of me as when I brought the truck in for the alignment, I had just replaced the upper UCAs and tires and did not see any of the damage/grind marks that I do now.
After they got it on the rack they let me know that they were not able to make adjustments without removing the tabs which I expected and said was fine (I had reinstalled the UCAs with the adjustable hardware). They had it for a few hours before I got a call back saying they were done but couldn't get both caster and camber within spec. I came in, talked with the tech and looked at the post alignment results. Best they could do was +0.6 camber on both sides, and +1 deg caster on the left, and +1.6 deg on the right. Claimed it was on par for this gen of truck and and could be something having to do with the new UCAs. Left it at 'that's just as good as it gets' and should be fine to go down the road. I wasn't happy but was in a time crunch to get on the road so had to settle for it. That was a mistake.

I haven't called the shop back yet but expect to get the run around so am leaving that to the back burner for tonight. I will be letting them know though, as this kind of hacking + not torquing down the bolts is a major safety issue.
Question now is what to do about getting these back into shape?

I am thinking about cleaning them up, grinding down to clean base metal, building the material back with weld (have a TIG machine available) and grinding/filing it back to the proper slot dims.
Other thought was to punch the right size slots into scab plates to weld on outside the damaged holes but I don't think the eccentric washers would sit up against the sheet metal flange to properly locate and brace things. Nor would I get expect to get a proper pinch on the UCA bushings, so I guess that idea is out :-/.

Any other ideas to patch up this job? All input welcome.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Ouch, that's ugly.
Alignments are my primary duty at work. Aside from removing the rest of the knockout, the other side slot will aid in correctly guiding the cam bolt as its adjusted. That and the cam washer against the tabs.
Truthfully, the butchery in the slots wont be a factor. The UCA is rigid enough to stay linear, and once the cam bolts are tightened, you'll never experience any problems.

Now, the alignment specs... Though it is the published spec, I've found that 0.6° is WAY too much camber. The vast majority of stock suspension, stock ride height trucks will wear the outer edges quickly with camber that high. My multi-decade experience says no more than 0.25° camber, and as much caster as possible.

If you're gonna take it back, show the manager the pictures of the hackery. Express your dissapointment, but be mindful that they might not warranty their labor due to you performing your teardown & inspection.

If they dont, go elsewhere. If it was my reputation on the line, I'd want the opportunity to make it right. Of course, I have the proper tool to remove the knockout. I'd never hack and grind the frame like they did...

If " it was on par for this gen of truck and and could be something having to do with the new UCAs. " was true, there must be another issue. Did you crank the torsion bars? Got rear lift blocks? There has to be a reason they couldn't even get 2° caster...
 

RevRun

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Nad, thanks for your input. I think I will go ahead with knocking out the remaining tabs, clean up the rough spots and see how it goes.

As for the numbers, it looks like the remaining tabs were limiting the adjustment range a fair bit. I agree on the camber target. Looking to end up near 0 if possible but mainly want to dial in more caster for a more stable steering feel at speed.

I am running a rough country 2-3" lift which is effectively keys + diff drop + UCAs and 2" blocks in the rear. I have dialed down to just about the lowest ride height with the new keys which about 1" higher than factory ( 22.5" from hub center to fender lip).
I think running this low is causing some of the problem as it looks like I gain negative camber as the truck rides higher. Taking a video from the front while I slowly jack up from the frame I see the tops of the tires swing inboard.

Factory height +1"
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Factory height +2"
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Factory height +3"
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Is this in-line with your experience?
 

Schurkey

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I'd be ALL OVER the jackoff at the alignment shop. They failed to perform proper, accepted, manufacturer-approved service techniques; and then told you they couldn't achieve proper alignment angles. That's about one step away from fraud. They left the vehicle in an unsafe condition (loose bolts.) They owe you a refund...and an apology. THEY should pay to weld-up the frame brackets.

Any trouble collecting that refund? That's what Small-Claims court is for. Pay extra to have the papers served by the Sheriff. Wakes 'em right up, and you should recover that expense when you win.

IF (big IF) they hadn't butchered the frame brackets and left the fasteners loose, and they couldn't get proper alignment angles despite opening-up the full width of the knockout slots because the vehicle is modified (lifted), I'd say you owed them for the service.
 
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RevRun

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I am heading down that road but not holding out much hope as I am now 400 miles away and have little more than my word against theirs and no way to get it to their shop for them to see. The manager wasn't looking to hear it but I'm trying to get the GM on the horn. We'll see. Honestly I am not too concerned with a refund rather than doing what I can to hopefully keep this from happening again. I don't want to be driving around with rigs on the road 'tuned up' like this.

Went ahead and knocked out the rest of the tabs. Looks like I'll gain another 1/4" of adjustment on each which looks like should either get my camber back close to 0 or gain about a degree of caster. I think I am going to swap bushings for those linked above. Should leave plenty room for dialing in the camber and caster to where I want. While the front end is torn down I am planning to replace the lower control arm bushings and sway bar end links (last few items to complete the front end refresh).

Anyone run a steering stabilizer on a 1500? Wondering if it may help with the bump steer i've experienced before the lift and expect is still there.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Nad, thanks for your input. I think I will go ahead with knocking out the remaining tabs, clean up the rough spots and see how it goes.

As for the numbers, it looks like the remaining tabs were limiting the adjustment range a fair bit. I agree on the camber target. Looking to end up near 0 if possible but mainly want to dial in more caster for a more stable steering feel at speed.

I am running a rough country 2-3" lift which is effectively keys + diff drop + UCAs and 2" blocks in the rear. I have dialed down to just about the lowest ride height with the new keys which about 1" higher than factory ( 22.5" from hub center to fender lip).
I think running this low is causing some of the problem as it looks like I gain negative camber as the truck rides higher. Taking a video from the front while I slowly jack up from the frame I see the tops of the tires swing inboard.

Factory height +1"
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Factory height +2"
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Factory height +3"
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Is this in-line with your experience?
Yes. The unequal length A-Arms will travel through different arcs. "Higher than" or "lower than" factory Z height will draw the Camber towards negative.
If you want near 0° camber, go ahead and raise the height a bit.

Then go to another alignment shop and request custom specs. It can't hurt to ask.

If it was me at my shop, and a customer asked for different specs, the only thing I'd say is "as long as you keep up on tire pressure and rotation". Then I'd align it.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Try running a longer set of front shocks. Cranking the ride height has extended them to the control zone end of the shock, causing a harsh ride.
 
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Nad_Yvalhosert

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Simmer down @Schurkey. I realize shops like that give us all a black eye, but theres no need to sic "Rambo the lawyer" on them so quickly.

O.P. Give the shop the chance to apologize, refund, and realign. If they're unable or unwilling, then go legal.
 
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