Front Speaker fit - Infinity Kappa

Thanks, I will check out the Rockville amp. Plan with the interior is to take it all apart, clean, sound deadening, new carpet, headliner. I will run new wires while I am at it. Not much snow in Texas but I will stick with OFC wire for the stereo setup.

65%+ of road noise is transferred through the doors.
Before laying down a full covering of the deadener, install an uneven amount of strips of the deadener across the panel in the shortest direction.
This eliminates body panel resonances.
Like putting your hand across the strings of a guitar.
For example, three 8" wide strips evenly spaced running front-to-back on the roof panel with a full cover with the deadener over top.
Same with the foot wells (3 strips) a full cover & then 2 layers of 3ml closed cell. 2 layers form better than one of 6ml.
On the back wall, IIRC I did 5 strips back there.
After the full covering, a layer of 3/8" closed cell went over that. RCSB and the factory carpet hid it all.
The doors got 3 strips on the inside of the outer door shell followed with a full cover. Then 1 layer of 3ml closed cell foam.
Once that *&%*%$%#@!!! inner panel was installed, that got a layer of deadener. Make sure to the leave the panels bolts exposed. Don't cover the vents at the bottom of the door.
Then...(!) the plastic panel itself got another round of deadener.
That required new door panel mounting pins.
Done in stages over 3 weekends. Didn't have to pull the seat until it was time to do the floor.

One of the best mods I did to the truck.
No more squeaks or rattles.
Heater didn't seem to have be run as hot or for as long.
The truck felt more substantial driving. More solid.
Stereo sounded better. (Alpine H/U. Four 'Focal' 6.5" components + a 10" Rockford Fosgate slimline sub @2ohms in a custom box. 2 Alpine amps, About 1000w's total. All pawn shop & C/L finds.)

Thanks for the info, I ordered some 3/8" closed cell.

Those inner panels leave a lot to be desired. I complained about having to rivet the inner panels in my Benz but it was a lot easier to remove and replace. I am replacing one door, so for now I will just do the driver's side.

Ehall8702 said:

That picaso 5 channel will work, it lacks on the 5th channel but if u just need sum bottom end it'll be fine, u won't be rattling the rear vieW mirror but it should sound good. Also check into the Rockville 5 channel amps the fxa I think , is a solid amp, plenty power. If ur looking for upgradeability on the sub side, the Rockville db55 ( I think that's their 5 channel) has PLENTY power both for doors and sub. Ppl talk bad about Rockville, but their amps are solid, subs and speakers idk. Do yourself a favor while interior is out, get sum OFC speaker wire and run from each speaker to your amp location, factory wore actually chokes alot of power due to resistance. Don't get cca wire, it'll turn to dust in one winter if u get any snow where u live. Same with power wire, ofc only lol unless u like to do the wiring again or chase down opens in your wires.
And quality stereo is always more work! Down the rabbit hole you go! I've spent probably $6k in equipment in the last 4 years, worth more than the damn truck!
If u got the funds sound deadening on floor and ceiling if u can, makes a world of difference.

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So I went with that amp. Still waiting on other stuff. I posted in my build thread about putting the amp under the seat or mounting it to the back wall. Not quite sure yet if the folding rear seat will work with the amp mounted on the wall.

I was looking for a downward firing sub like this 10” kicker.


Or maybe I need to get a custom built one to fit under the left side of the rear seat.

steveed said:

So I went with that amp. Still waiting on other stuff. I posted in my build thread about putting the amp under the seat or mounting it to the back wall. Not quite sure yet if the folding rear seat will work with the amp mounted on the wall.

I was looking for a downward firing sub like this 10” kicker.

Kicker 48CDF104

Comp Series sealed down-firing enclosure with 10" 4-ohm subwoofer

www.crutchfield.com

Or maybe I need to get a custom built one to fit under the left side of the rear seat.

Click to expand...

Seat will fold with amp on back wall. Actually I got two sealed agm cells to fit behind mine and seat still folded (we batteries for a power wheel chair so slimmer than alot of batteries). I would suggest making a wood panel to secure to back wall , like the whole back wall, then securing the amp to that. May not think a single sub will flex that back wall but after messing up a $600 amp in my truck I'd never mount directly to the sheet metal wall. I have actually mounted smaller amps to the bottom of the rear bench seat and routed wires with enuff slack to allow seat to fold properly.

steveed said:

So I went with that amp. Still waiting on other stuff. I posted in my build thread about putting the amp under the seat or mounting it to the back wall. Not quite sure yet if the folding rear seat will work with the amp mounted on the wall.

I was looking for a downward firing sub like this 10” kicker.

Kicker 48CDF104

Comp Series sealed down-firing enclosure with 10" 4-ohm subwoofer

www.crutchfield.com

Or maybe I need to get a custom built one to fit under the left side of the rear seat.

Click to expand...

Also, they make dual 10 , dual 12 , and single 10 or 12 custom boxes for under rear seats. A single ported 12 would be enuff to keep most happy for a long while.anything sealed will leave you wanting more , can almost promise u that lol. I think last dual 12 box I bought for a customer was rite at $100.

steveed said:

The speakers fit, a bit of banging to get the rear speakers to fit. Just had to hammer the bottom lip in some. Front fit just fine with the tweeters towards the center of the truck. Sounds a lot better, but still needs a sub and amp.

Now the interior is mostly apart so I need to get some mat and new carpet. Install the amp, run the wires. It's never ending....

Click to expand...

I've got the same speakers front & rear in my truck. For rear fitment, I just flipped them so the tweeters were on the bottom and used fuel line as a spacer/gasket. No rattles or squeaks. I fade the sound mostly to the front anyway. Regular cab truck problems I guess.

Ehall8702 said:

Seat will fold with amp on back wall. Actually I got two sealed agm cells to fit behind mine and seat still folded (we batteries for a power wheel chair so slimmer than alot of batteries). I would suggest making a wood panel to secure to back wall , like the whole back wall, then securing the amp to that. May not think a single sub will flex that back wall but after messing up a $600 amp in my truck I'd never mount directly to the sheet metal wall. I have actually mounted smaller amps to the bottom of the rear bench seat and routed wires with enuff slack to allow seat to fold properly.

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Might be a silly question but how did you go about mounting the wood panel to the back wall? Just drill some holes and bolt it on with something like m8 bolts with washers?

For the panel I was thinking 5/8" MDF.

steveed said:

Might be a silly question but how did you go about mounting the wood panel to the back wall? Just drill some holes and bolt it on with something like m8 bolts with washers?

For the panel I was thinking 5/8" MDF.

Click to expand...

I used 3/4 bc it's what I had on hand but 5/8 be fine. Basically anything to stiffen that rear wall up is good, even ribbed steel flaps like crazy with a good sub.


That was ****** electrical so wasn't even close to full power. The 8s flexed it damn near as much but don't have any videos.

That’s crazy!