Rebuilding an engine - what precision instruments to do measurements

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stutaeng

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I bought this LQ9 (flat pistons) many years ago to do a swap, and long story short, it had a front main spun...I didn't really have a clue back then on anything mechanics related. It sat in my backyard for a long time, and last Fall I finally tore into and the cam looked okay, as well as the cylinder bores. Because I knew rebuilding/machining can get expensive and time consuming, I found a 5.3 for my project to drop in and left this thing as is. I've got parts scattered all over my garage, LOL. But they are all nicely labeled. ;) I did call a local machine shop and got a quote for a complete rebuild at $1800. A line-bore only IIRC was around $180. I don't know what those costs are today.

I think I will have some time/money this year to reconsider rebuilding the LQ9. I can probably just go hunt for another (good) one form a parted out truck and probably be actually ahead on money. I think I like the challenge on getting this one rebuilt. I've never done an engine overhaul. I bought this book also back in the Fall, and it was then I realized that this was not as easy as it seems:
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My question is: What tools would you recommend for doing my own measurements on the cylinder bores measurements? Taper, out-of-round, etc. to compare to the specifications. My thinking is if I can confirm that all I need is a line-bore, I can probably keep costs down on the machining? Or realize the block is junk? I think crank machining is a must also, or replacement. Is this a reasonable approach? I need a dial bore and micrometers at the minimum? Anything else? I see some vintage Starret/Mitutoyo on FBM sometimes. Or get a new Chicom set from Amazon/HF/Summit? Would the 3-4" micrometer be a good option? It looks like those pistons are actually 4.000". Only precision tools I own are dial calipers, dial indicators and feeler guages. Been watching a few videos on using micrometers.

At the moment I'm not thinking boost, forging or anything crazy like that, just looking for a standard rebuild. No specific use for the engine either. "Maybe" it might find it's way into my K3500 beater if I decide to keep it for good?
 

MrPink

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Always have a machine shop check a bare block out, it will be cheaper for them to do that then it is for you to buy all the tools. IIRC the last block I had reworked(honed, line bored, cam bearings and new freeze plugs) I was charged ~$500 this also was on a 302 and was 13yrs ago now. But the cost is normally by engine type not per cyl.
 

Schurkey

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It's not just buying the tools, it's developing the "feel" for using them properly.

You won't likely get that on one engine. Your measurements may be inexact as a result.

One engine? Pay an expert to check it out.
 

Frank Enstein

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Basic tools:

Service manuals/Technical books for the engine you are building
Engine stand
Feeler gauges
Torque wrench(es)
Torque angle meter. Many bolts on a Gen III/IV small block are one use only torque to yield.
Plastigauge More like a consumable. It's not ultra accurate but this isn't NASCAR either
Straight edge
Dial caliper (optional) Personally I hate the electronic digital type. Every time I go to use it the battery is dead!

When you put in a cam:

Dial indicator with base
Piston stop
Degree wheel
Checking springs
Pushrod length tool(s)


I agree with the others. Let the machine shop do their thing and then double check at home. Trust but verify.

Later, if you like this engine building stuff then more advances tools would be:

Micrometers in 1,2,3.4, and 5"
Inside micrometers or a dial bore gauge
Engine cc kit
Ring filer

I have rebuilt several engines over a 40+ year span and I still don't own all of these.

You can also rent some of these too.

I built my collection over decades. You don't need to get everything at once. Get them as they're needed or if you are sick of renting/borrowing that tool.

As far as the swap goes I always recommend keeping the engine as stock as possible until the vehicle is running, driving, and all the bugs are worked out.

There are enough things to worry about with an engine swap without the headaches of an over-cammed poor running engine that needs a tune to be drivable.

A 5.3 swaps in exactly the same as a 6.0. Pop in the 5.3 and work on the 6.0 as time and money permits.

Building an engine (or anything!) in a hurry always costs a bunch more. So does changing the project in the middle.

Budget 3 times the amount of time you think it will take for broken bolts/delivery delays and such.

I have found that adding up EVERYTHING you could possibly need for any project will be short by 1/3.

Nothing is worse than being delayed because you are waiting for payday to get that last part to make it go.

Especially when you are learning as you go.

Budget for that thing you will mess up due to inexperience.

I've seen countless projects stall due to "***********".

This is supposed to be fun!

Good luck!
 

GoToGuy

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This kind of project isn't an amateur backyard process. Without guidance or supervision you might have a very exspensive living room display. If you have that book on LS engines isn't there a lot of measurement tools in it. Straight edge, inside- outside mics, vernier caliper, snap gauges, feeler gauges, bore gauges, spring gauge, depth gauge. Spring compressor. Ring compressor. Ring taper bore. Torque angle gauge. Arbor press. Torque wrenches more than. Last time everything was checked/ certified? And there's more.
 

LC2NLS6

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Sell it all as is. If you want a 6.0L, find another one that doesn't have a spun bearing.
 

Erik the Awful

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This kind of project isn't an amateur backyard process.
I disagree. Don't make rocket science out of it.

If I were building an all-out race motor, sure, I'd get the high dollar micrometers. For a basic rebuild?

Feeler gauges
Torque wrench
Plastigauge
Bar hone

If you're using stock heads and valvetrain, you can get away without a dial caliper. If you change up your valvetrain, you're going to need to measure installed height, retainer clearance, etc.

Take the block and head to get them vatted and magnafluxed. That'll set you back about $150, but it ensures you aren't building a garbage block.

Hone the cylinders yourself. One pass with the hone and you'll see if your bores are worn. It's nowhere near as common on our engines as it was back in the day. If you use a dingle-berry hone, you won't see any out-of-roundness.

If you change cams, you'll want a degree wheel, but you can print one and glue it to some cardboard, so it's cheap and easy if needed.
 

highwaystar

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If just "ringing" the engine, use a dingle-berry hone (FlexHone) to break the glaze. Don't use an expandable hone (3 stones like a big brake cylinder hone). Also, use ONLY iron rings, NOT moly for a re-ring. Moly rings are tougher but generally have seating issues unless it's a fresh bore.
 

letitsnow

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I bought this LQ9 (flat pistons) many years ago to do a swap, and long story short, it had a front main spun...I didn't really have a clue back then on anything mechanics related. It sat in my backyard for a long time, and last Fall I finally tore into and the cam looked okay, as well as the cylinder bores. Because I knew rebuilding/machining can get expensive and time consuming, I found a 5.3 for my project to drop in and left this thing as is. I've got parts scattered all over my garage, LOL. But they are all nicely labeled. ;) I did call a local machine shop and got a quote for a complete rebuild at $1800. A line-bore only IIRC was around $180. I don't know what those costs are today.

I think I will have some time/money this year to reconsider rebuilding the LQ9. I can probably just go hunt for another (good) one form a parted out truck and probably be actually ahead on money. I think I like the challenge on getting this one rebuilt. I've never done an engine overhaul. I bought this book also back in the Fall, and it was then I realized that this was not as easy as it seems:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

My question is: What tools would you recommend for doing my own measurements on the cylinder bores measurements? Taper, out-of-round, etc. to compare to the specifications. My thinking is if I can confirm that all I need is a line-bore, I can probably keep costs down on the machining? Or realize the block is junk? I think crank machining is a must also, or replacement. Is this a reasonable approach? I need a dial bore and micrometers at the minimum? Anything else? I see some vintage Starret/Mitutoyo on FBM sometimes. Or get a new Chicom set from Amazon/HF/Summit? Would the 3-4" micrometer be a good option? It looks like those pistons are actually 4.000". Only precision tools I own are dial calipers, dial indicators and feeler guages. Been watching a few videos on using micrometers.

At the moment I'm not thinking boost, forging or anything crazy like that, just looking for a standard rebuild. No specific use for the engine either. "Maybe" it might find it's way into my K3500 beater if I decide to keep it for good?

I can't give you any helpful advice on the rebuild, but I do have a ton of respect for people who have the desire to build stuff themselves!
 
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