Yukon Duragrip/US Standard ring and pinion

Frank Enstein said:

There are some ring and pinion gears cut for more strength that might be a bit noisy. Check with the manufacturer to see if that is the case with yours. They may settle down after break in. Ask the vendor that and ask how they want them to be broken in too.

The pattern, preload, and backlash look fine to me. Ya just might have to turn the radio up for awhile!

Click to expand...

I have pretty much written off anymore assistance from the guy at Yukon. I'm sure he gets tired of random dumbasses asking questions but that's his job. He had to have seen the last two emails I sent. But I saw in the reviews on both of these companies, customers happy with the product but that they needed to improve the customer service. Haven't gotten a reply since Wednesday before Thanksgiving from Yukon.
The guy at Quick Performance answered email once. I guess I can try him again with the pictures of the patterns I got and preload at 10 and ask him about the whirr.
That's where the noise is coming from. I could get the same reaction going down the road and with it on jack stands.
If you over crush a sleeve doesn't that make your yoke harder to turn because your bearings are too tight? If that's correct then I shouldn't be far from the desired 14-19 since it's at 10.

Yes more preload will increase the torque to turn.

I was told the torque to turn the installed carrier by the pinion nut should be twice the drag of the pinion alone.

New pinion nut;

New pinion seal;

Cover gasket;

Ratech's website;

I always use Ratech because they give all the dimensions for all their parts.

If Yukon can't help contact Ratech or Motive Gear. I have had very good advice from both companies.

Frank Enstein said:

Yes more preload will increase the torque to turn.

I was told the torque to turn the installed carrier by the pinion nut should be twice the drag of the pinion alone.

New pinion nut;

Ratech 1501 Ratech Differential Pinion Nuts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Ratech Differential Pinion Nuts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Differential Pinion Nuts at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

New pinion seal;

Ratech 6172 Ratech Pinion Seals | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Ratech Pinion Seals with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pinion Seals at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Cover gasket;

Ratech 5106 Ratech Differential Cover Gaskets | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Ratech Differential Cover Gaskets with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Differential Cover Gaskets at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Ratech's website;

Table of Contents

I always use Ratech because they give all the dimensions for all their parts.

If Yukon can't help contact Ratech or Motive Gear. I have had very good advice from both companies.

Click to expand...

I talked to a guy at Quick Performance this morning and told him what's going on. I asked him should I just tighten the preload up a little,fill it up and run it through the break in. He said yeah. I asked if some noise is associated sometimes breaking in the gears. He said yeah, sometimes. But I think if I told him I was gonna run some Karo syrup as break in oil he'd have said yeah, that'll work.
But I went ahead and tightened the pinion nut a hair,still not to around 15. When I turned it I started hearing a "flap" sound. So I took all that **** apart and starting from scratch almost. Otw to get a new bearing and race for the outer,smaller pinion bearing.

ChrsLytn said:

I talked to a guy at Quick Performance this morning and told him what's going on. I asked him should I just tighten the preload up a little,fill it up and run it through the break in. He said yeah. I asked if some noise is associated sometimes breaking in the gears. He said yeah, sometimes. But I think if I told him I was gonna run some Karo syrup as break in oil he'd have said yeah, that'll work.
But I went ahead and tightened the pinion nut a hair,still not to around 15. When I turned it I started hearing a "flap" sound. So I took all that **** apart and starting from scratch almost. Otw to get a new bearing and race for the outer,smaller pinion bearing.

Click to expand...

Got it back together (finally) a couple of hours ago. Just made a short test drive.
No noise, no whine, no whir. No ****.
Going in the house and microwave a Stouffer's meatloaf and mashed potatoes meal. It's good. Thanks for everybody's input.

Well,it started up whining again when I drove it the next day. Not real bad but it was hearable. Pulled it back in and tore it apart all the way to the pinion. Decided to go back with a crush sleeve. I checked the pinion preload before I took it out. It had loosened up a little. I got the carrier, ring and pinion in it tonight. Do the rest tomorrow. I bought a dial type torque wrench for the pinion. It's a whole lot better at measuring the preload. Had to get some more gear paint. None of retailers had it Had to go to dealer. Got a tube about the size of traveling toothpaste for 6.00. I'm set for life . I won't ever use all of it. I don't plan on taking in rear end work on the side.
Hell naw. I read some reviews on the US Standard ring and pinion sets. One guy said he was told that brand is the rejects that Yukon weeds out. They are durable but might be a little noisy. That's nice to know. I'll know tomorrow.
If you ever need a yoke holder working with the pinion, I got my fan clutch wrench,drilled two holes to fit it to u-joint holes and braced it with a stand. Worked good.
PBJ and ruffles are happening in about 10 minutes.

I use rtv for the cover, if your using a gasket make sure the holes at 9 & 3 o'clock are adequate for flow.
I recently had a local shop install an Eaton Posi in my '94, I've done em with jack stands, not again. Castrol makes a good oil, the Valvoline smells rancid, probably recycled oil.

ChrsLytn said:

If you ever need a yoke holder working with the pinion, I got my fan clutch wrench,drilled two holes to fit it to u-joint holes and braced it with a stand. Worked good.

Click to expand...

Nice but, that's what this thing is for (red arrow)

PlayingWithTBI said:

Nice but, that's what this thing is for (red arrow)

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

Yeah,I didn't realize I needed a yoke holder the night I started on it so I looked around saw the clutch wrench and I had bought the beam type torque wrench but it was kinda hard to read it when it was moving. And I cold only go about half a rotation turning the yoke. But I've some cool new tools. Your scale is a little bigger than one I got. Went through several cans of brake cleaner. Every time I've had to take the sob apart I'd understand it some more. This time it's gone smoother. I'll know in about an hour. Fixing to fill it up. The last time I drained it I saved that oil,ran it through a a couple paint strainers. Putting it back in for break in. Setting gears up would have been easier off the truck. Have a good night. I'll let y'all know what it do.

ChrsLytn said:

Setting gears up would have been easier off the truck. Have a good night. I'll let y'all know what it do.

Click to expand...

I'm sorry you're having such issues, hopefully this is the last time. On my 10 bolt I used USA Standard gears' 4.11 ratio and haven't had any issues for close to 3 years plus, I don't baby it in any way either.

The painful itching and swelling continue with this hemorrhoid and my truck's rear end. I put new bearings and races in for the pinion. I bought two of each pinion bearings and made me set up bearings.
I torqued pinion nut to about 130 and set the preload to about 16, bout midway of the 14-19 in their specs. I got gear patterns in the pictures I sent and BL about 8, within their 6-10 specs.
I used the CSE this time and got the preload set and gear patterns and BL
set.
Put it all back together and have only run it on stands so far. When I first started running it it didn't make any noise the first couple of minutes but then it started back to the whirring noise which I've included for everyone's video and audio pleasure. I noticed the seal leaking at the front of driveshaft so I'm replacing it now and I'm gon drive it some to see if it's the same going down the road. I'm thinking it probably will be.
I'm starting to wonder if there's some truth to the US Standard Gear sets being Yukon's rejects.