overheated in -20 weather

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Supercharged111

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I had a thermostat stick once, it was cold as hell out. I noticed the temp gauge was about pegged, pulled over, and whacked the thermostat housing with a Maglite. By the time I got back in the truck it was stone cold and had to warm back up again. Never did it after that.
 

thinger2

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Man scratching my head here. Conditions were poor to say the least out. I had my trucked plugged in all night and when I started it, it seemed to bog down a little but then ran with a whine for a bit that went away. Figured it was just cold. and actually had just put a fancy new thermostat in for second time because it seemed to overheat sometimes when it was cold out. tested my antifreeze and it tested good. Made it part way to work and it overheated. Pegged the gauge actually. I let it cool off and removed the radiator cap. I put everything I had in to the radiator and and fired it up. I looked down in the radiator and the coolant was just sitting there. I couldn't see any external leaks. I am wondering if the waterpump(which is also new) is not turning. Also I don't have any antifreeze in my engine oil. Hoping I didn't hurt it.
Just to clarify, when you opened the cap, was it low on coolant?
How much did you have to put in?
 

454cid

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"seemed to bog down a little but then ran with a whine for a bit that went away"

Man, that sure makes me wonder if the water pump had seized and the whine was the impeller shearing off the shaft.

Richard

Is that really a thing? I've heard of people having PS pumps shear, but not water pumps. I guess it would be a simple fix.... except for working in the cold.
 

someotherguy

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Is that really a thing? I've heard of people having PS pumps shear, but not water pumps. I guess it would be a simple fix.... except for working in the cold.
A guess more than anything, -20F is pretty freaking cold. If OP's antifreeze/water mix was sufficient for the temps, I wouldn't expect it to be frozen, but a marginal water pump bearing might have seized. *Something* up there provided extra resistance then loosened and complained afterwards, ya know? Bog and then whining?

Richard
 

454cid

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A guess more than anything, -20F is pretty freaking cold. If OP's antifreeze/water mix was sufficient for the temps, I wouldn't expect it to be frozen, but a marginal water pump bearing might have seized. *Something* up there provided extra resistance then loosened and complained afterwards, ya know? Bog and then whining?

Richard

I'm not saying you're wrong. I've just heard any confirmed cases of the shafts/impellers breaking on a water pump. If it's a Chinese pump, I can certainly beleive the bearing may have failed. The first new non-GM pump I installed failed in 2 years with coolant leaking out the weep hole. The two GM pumps I had lasted much longer. I still kick myself for recycling my original pump because I was tired of having it laying around.
 

Schurkey

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I've seen the sheetmetal impeller of a cheap Oldsmobile pump shear off the shaft. Pump shaft turned, no coolant flow. Ever since then, I've liked cast impellers rather than stamped-sheetmetal. But there's a huge number of stamped impellers that work just fine, year after year.

Whine in the cold was more likely PS or transmission rather than cooling system. Maybe even fuel pump.

Yes, the radiator will often freeze first, then the engine overheats. I suppose a water pump could freeze, more likely if it's aluminum rather than cast iron. Whether the impeller would tear off the shaft, or the belt would break is a toss-up.

There are no "air bubbles/air lock" in a cooling system at water-pump level; unless the radiator is half-empty. Some cars have cooling systems that trap bubbles; and they generally have bleeder valves on the high spots. These trucks don't. Even on level ground, the rad cap is higher than the coolant passages.
 

GoToGuy

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The block maybe heating up and get as hot as you say. Upper hose not hot? You know how the radiator cap functions? When hot your cooling system is a " pressure cooker " . When you remove the radiator cap on a normal operating temp engine what happens to your hand. The heat and pressure contained probably will cook your hand and or other body parts. If it's overheated open the hood. DO NOT touch or remove the radiator cap. Engine too hot cap feels cold, it's still under pressure! Old Faithful serves no real purpose except " oh ah". Just as removing the radiator cap on overheated engine will be " oh ah that burn looks bad!". When you remove the cap, the contained pressure drops, the boilng point drops rapid expansion makes pressure equals steam water rocket nozzle. = Bad day.
 

AuroraGirl

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I've seen the sheetmetal impeller of a cheap Oldsmobile pump shear off the shaft. Pump shaft turned, no coolant flow. Ever since then, I've liked cast impellers rather than stamped-sheetmetal. But there's a huge number of stamped impellers that work just fine, year after year.

Whine in the cold was more likely PS or transmission rather than cooling system. Maybe even fuel pump.

Yes, the radiator will often freeze first, then the engine overheats. I suppose a water pump could freeze, more likely if it's aluminum rather than cast iron. Whether the impeller would tear off the shaft, or the belt would break is a toss-up.

There are no "air bubbles/air lock" in a cooling system at water-pump level; unless the radiator is half-empty. Some cars have cooling systems that trap bubbles; and they generally have bleeder valves on the high spots. These trucks don't. Even on level ground, the rad cap is higher than the coolant passages.
wouldnt be hard to put a bleed valve on, and to use it to quickly get out air. find a 3800 engine and takes its thermostat housing like 92+ should have one.
 
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